peteski

I asked a Hornby USA rep last week (they own Pocher) and he told me that none of the old classic car molds are usable (they won't be bringing any of those older models back). While he didn't say what is in the future, judging by the models they are currently releasing, it won't be any classic vintage cars.

My workshop is shown on my club's website: http://classicplastic.org/workshops.html (the middle one).

I used to use regular masking tape (mostly 3M blue). I tried the special blue vinyl 3M tape but I found it too stiff for complex masking on a small model. Then I found Tamiya tape and that is what I exclusively use for any fine masking. I still use the other masking tapes but only to fill the larger areas which are bordered by Tamiya-taped areas. Tamiya tape is very thin and very flexible and stretches easily. The adhesive is also very good - not too aggressive and very tight (paint doesn't creep under it).

Avesome model! And built lightning-fast!

Seems that we have similar taste in models Harry. This is a 3rd large scale model you building which I also own: The Christie Fire Engine, the Road Engine, and now the Bianchi. One difference though - all my models are unbuilt (so far).

Flat-earthers also probably do not believe that humans ever landed on the moon (that was another government conspiracy). There was even an expose book written about that (with proof). You know, all this talk about flat earth having edges made me think - what if the flat earth is like a Mobeus strip? There is no "bottom" as there is only one surface! Why didn't they think of that?

Very true - especially on a large 1:12 scale model. You will never get a nice even and glossy finish if you have to refill the tiny cup in the middle of the paint job. I'm quite happy with how my siphon-fed Badger 200 airbrush performs. Dual-action airbrushes are awesome for doing things like weathering, but for spraying model car bodies all you really need is a miniature spray gun (which is exactly what my Badger 200 is).

Pete J. said it all. regular organic solvent based enamels and lacquers will not dry in the airbrush in such a short time. The closed needle prevents solvent from evaporating and the small vent home in the paint jar lid is not large enough for any appreciable evaporation of the paint solvent. The only thing is, when you start spraying after waiting 30 minutes, spray outside of the model body for few seconds to clear the paint which sat in the airbrush. This is important with metallic paints (where the metallic particles might have settled a bit). Also with metallic paints make sure to swirl the airbrush around for a while to mix the settled metallic particles back into the paint.

Looks like not all dehydrators are equal. I have a small round one and the temperature doesn't get any higher in it than around 120 deg. F. Plenty safe for polystyrene and resins (at least all the ones I stuffed in it).

I built one of these - in my early teens - I still have the model but it is very dusty and slightly damaged.

The weathering is incredibly realistic! Awesome! I remember riding in these (as taxi cabs) in Poland in the 70s. I remember the very soft back seats and the smell of cigarette smoke.

Well, almost. The full history is at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Life-Like . Basically in 2005 the Styrofoam cooler division split out as Lifoam. Then Life-Like (the model trains company) was acquired by Wm. K. Walthers (a large model train distributor/manufacturer).

So this is a model, right?

There is a sure way to prevent bottle caps from getting stuck: thoroughly clean the bottle lip and the gasket inside the cap every time you close the bottle. Basically you are ending up with the bottle as it was when you first opened it. I've been doing that for years and never had a stuck cap. Yes, I know that I'm really anal, but it works for me. I always have a bunch of small squares of paper towel. I use those to to clean the lip and the gasket. If needed, I moisten the paper towel with some lacquer thinner.

Here are couple of useful threads:

i good magnifier is the answer. Optivisor is just such instrument (other cheaper ones aren't as good - you get what you paid for). My eyesight isn't what it used to be 20 years ago and without the Optivisor I would be lost (with models of any scale). But with the Optivisor I can build some really small models. But I do have to fess up that on that model I also used my stereo-microscope.

Real! He tried to confuse us with the very thick body at the front wheel openings.

Coil sits wherever the owner installed it (since it is not a factory stock setup). Some sit on the engine,next to the distributor, others on the firewall. You could mount it on the inner fender if you wish. There is no single correct location. But I would mount it reasonably close to where the distributor is located (to minimize the length of wire run). Now if this was a factory stock model then the coil would have to be mounted in a prototypical accurate location.

Like Art, I exclusively use the BSI accelerator (applied with micro-brush or a wooden toothpick - never sprayed). Most other accelerator brands are either very stinky, contain acetone or other solvents which attach styrene and paints, or they work too fast (bubbling up the CA glue as it sets). I use more than half a dozen of various adhesives - as far as just the CA goes, I use the extra thick, regular and super-thin. Usually BIS brand, but I have used others too. But I would really be lost without the super-thin CA!

Nice model! Only thing that looks a bit odd is all the brass bolt heads/nuts . Shouldn't those have steel color? Plating them would fix the problem. If I had that kit I would have dunked them all in a tin plating solution I use to tin-plate printed circuit board copper traces. I think that if this was done the model would be indistinguishable in photos from the 1:1 engine.

I have donated several instructions scans to Bob's repository. I have also donated some money to keep the site going. If you like the site and find it useful I would highly encourage you do try to donate some money to keep it going. If every user donated few bucks, that would make a huge difference. Just sayin' . . .

I would be lost without the extra-thin CA glue. But I have in my glue arsenal (and use) more than half a dozen of different adhesives.

...or one small model car...

Not only for measuring - you can use the pointy ends of the jaws to scribe measured distances directly onto a piece of styrene. Very handy! You can sometimes find the 6" model for as low as $10 at Harbor Freight or other similar dealers.

Be patient - you'll eventually find one. They do show up from time to time on eBay. I'm in USA and I got one from UK several years ago (on eBay). The shipping cost was a killer! I still have an automatic eBay search for these so I do see them show up on eBay from time to time. I seen about 3 or 4 of them listed in the last few months. UPDATE: I just got notified about 2 of these listed on eBay: look for items 252151788166 and 291604894209. Harry: that is going to be another awesome build!