peteski

Oh, just go away! I see what you did there! You won't get me roped into that silliness.

Thanks for that Dan. I have also been rolling my eyes at those recent silly threads. I find those "best of" or "top five" questions a bit silly.

Never heard of it or seen a model. I also don't recall hearing of even automobiles of that vintage having more than 4 cylinders. I'm surprised that a motorcycle had a V8 engine. Learn something new everyday.

I have those and also plastic ones with similar type of stems. These all come from model railroad hobbies. Look for NBW (Nut-Bolt-Washer) castings. For example https://duckduckgo.com/?t=h_&q=nbw+castings&ia=web

You don't have to be an electrician to understand lead-acid car batteries. They are made of multiple cells connected in series. Each cell produces 2 Volts. Each cell has a cap on top so it can be filled with electrolyte. To figure out the battery voltage just count the number of caps, then multiply it by 2. These batteries have 3 caps, so 3 x 2 = 6 Volts. 12 Volt batteries will have 6 caps. Do you have any photos of the batteries in the 1:1 Bentley? I'm asking because it is possible that those two 6 Volt batteries are connected in series, for a total voltage of 12V. If that is the case, you would have to wire them differently to accurately depict the 1:1 car.

I think it is more of a necessity than fascination. Back when that kit was designed, I believe that all Japanese automotive kit manufacturers used outside source for their tires. Unlike American kits, (PVC tires molded in-house), Japanese manufacturer used solid real rubber tires. I suspect all the tires were made by some outside company, and only limited number of tire sizes were available. That is why you'll see the same tires used by Tamiya, Aoshima, Hasegawa, and even Amercan SATCO got on the bandwagon and also resold those tires, That is why I think that the tires were all made by some 3rd party manufacturer. They are great looking tires, but the size might be off. At least that's my take on this.

As usual, it should be a fun show and contest. Photos from previous shows are available at http://classicplastic.org/photos.html For more details see the flyer http://classicplastic.org/CPMC-show-flyer-2023.pdf and a model entry form can be downloaded from http://classicplastic.org/cpmc-entry-form-fillable.pdf We hope to see you there!

Pyro (and later Life-Like) had a 1:32 1911 Stanlay Steamer kit. I have the Life-Like kit. There is a restored 1:1 Stanley Steamer in the Shanklin Hall in Groton, MA (it also houses a Wurlitzer Theater Organ). It resides in the back room where all the organ machinery is. When you take the tour of the back room, you get to see the car.

How do those filters work with metallic paints? Do they block metallic particles from flowing through them?

Unfortunately no Ollie's in the New England area. There are no replacement for Building 19 stores. There are plenty of dollar stores (well $1.25 nowadays), Ocean State Job Lot, Big Lots, and few smaller "bargain stores", but none carry model kits or modeling supplies.

I believe what you are looking for is still visible on the first page of this forum.

Actually nothing can be simpler nowadays. Since many take photos using smart phones, basically the smart phone will do it for you with just a few simple swipes of a finger. The technology has advanced quite a bit in the last decade, but I'm school, and I use old Nikon CoolPix 8700 camera and Corel Photo Paint for photo processing. I originally addressed paying attention to the CRI because this thread is about best indoor lighting for taking model photos. Good lightning minimizes need for post-processing.

Back in the earlier days of the World Wide Web, with basic HTML code, thing were simple and pretty much compatible with all the early browsers. Nowadays the coding got so darn complicated that there are always compatibility issues. Unfortunately there is no easy solution - and things will only get more complex in the future. The coding has gotten too complex and too many programmers are involved in the process, each one handling a small piece of the entire browser or website design. Updates (to the browsers and to the programs like the one running this forum) are double edge swords. They fix one thing and break another. These things are too complex to test every possible feature and interaction before releasing the update. There are just too many features and interdependancies. We're stuck in this quagmire called Internet.

Ah, Volkswagen "The Thing". Even has graphics proclaiming the American name. They don't show up often around this area (even at the car shows or cruise nights). Funny how VW commercialized a military vehicle and (mainly) hippies in the '60s embraced them. Now they are collector's items like many other low-end vintage vehicles.

Yes, color temperature plays important role i proper color rendition by cameras. But the other very important factor is Color Rendition Index (CRI) of the logth source. Sun of course has a very high CRI. Look for lamps or light bulbs with high CRI (90 or higher). For more details about CRI see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_rendering_index One way to improve color quality (assuming you have high CRI light source) is manually adjusted white color balance setting in your camera. I use it all the time when taking model photos. Even still the camera image sensors are not perfect. Some intense reds will not be as intense looking in a photograph. The image sensor does not have the same dynamic range as the eye. The other part of the equation is the computer monitors (display) when viewing the photos. Those also do not have the dynamic range of the human eye, and often do not show colors correctly. Professionals use very expensive equipment (cameras, monitors, and printers) with color profiles enabled for that equipment. That guarantees the best possible color rendition, but the high-end equipment is quite pricey (usually out of reach for an average person).

According to https://www.scalemates.com/kits/monogram-85-6744-bathtub-buggy-george-barris-saturday-night-mare-show-rod--959332 that kit was reissued in 2009 (earlier than I recalled), but still more recent than 1969. While that website is not always accurate, that entry seems on target. You might be able to find the 2009 release on eBay, or some other site where out of production models are sold. Will likely be less expensive than the first release.

Yes, very well built model! It must have been reissued after the 1969 initial run because I picked up one of them at a hobby shop probably 10 years ago. I don't have it handy to check, but I'm sure it was not the original release.

You used the same exact paint mixture, and brush-painted it dried smooth and glossy? Was it the same exact mix (including the thinner) as what was in the airbrush? You did mention that when the paint is still wet after airbrushing, ,it looks smooth and glossy until it dries That doesn't seem to make sense, but I would then think it has to be your airbrushing technique.

I seem to recall a mention that Archer Transfers closed shop not too long ago. It is good to see that they are still open for business.

I have never seen a 1oz. Testors glass bottle. The little square bottles are 1/4 oz. and the larger round ones (usually Model Master) are 1/2 oz. If you ever seen Floquil paint, that usually came in 1oz. round bottles (much larger than Testors). I was asking mainly to see if you were mixing different kinds of paints (which can be problematic). If the freshly sprayed paint surface looks smooth and shiny like glass, then I wonder if there is a problem with the paint itself. Like I said, before laying a coat on the model, try it on a plastic spoon and empty plastic soda bottle to see what results you get. Plastic spoons are quite inexpensive. On the other hand, maybe try to brush-paint a spoon using the same paint you are airbrushing with and see if it dries smooth.

I assume the photos showing the WIX box and Bldg. 19 price are of the truck's box? So yes, it seems that either the model manufacturer, or even Bldg. 19 had the WIX models custom repainted into their current paint job.

We need more details. What specific type paint did you use? From the little glass square bottles (PLA enamel), or round bottles (Model Master)? Or a spray can? I assume it is the stinky (not water-based) paint. You said you mixed. You mean you stirred/shook the paint, or mixed multiple colors (using the same type of paint of course). When you are spraying 3" from the surface, is the paint smooth and wet right after it laid down, or does it already have that texture while wet? I have brush-painted and airbrushed Testors paints for decades and they seemed to always work fine for me. But I have also heard that some new batches of Testors paint can be problematic. I have not bought any for some time. Another example where test spraying a plastic spoon could prevent possible stripping of the body, or very tedious sanding and polishing. It makes sense to learn on spoons (or plastic soda bottles) before dealing with the actual model.

LOL, yes. I don't know why but I thought you wrote "Believe it or not, it's not the first time it has happened to me, so I was clueless. " Looking at it now, the statement as I thought I saw it made no sense. but my brain was obviously not fully engaged.

This is the exact definition the club I belong to uses for their model contest rules (other clubs and contests rules might be different). BOX STOCK (additional requirement for Class 11 and 12 only): Finishing materials such as paint, metal foil, flocking and/or aftermarket decals are allowed. No other modifications or added details are permitted except as follows: Putty may be used to fill seams and/or to correct manufacturing flaws such as sink marks. Removal of details such as door handles, chrome trim or incorrect/extraneous underbody details are also allowed. Kit instructions MUST accompany the entry.

Yeah, the Super Kings trucks are around 1:64 scale