SfanGoch

I'd like to say that I sympathize with you guys paying three bucks a gallon.....but, I don't. A Citgo station in the Bronx is charging $3.95/gal. for regular. Another one (Shell) in the Bronx is charging $3.35 for regular and $4.19 (cach price. $4.29 on the plastic) for premium. Platinum catalysts are used to increase octane ratings of gasoline in a process called platforming. Combined with the addition of tetraethyl lead, 100 octane gas can be achieved from low grade 48 octane gas. I'm glad Materials Science was taught when I went to high school. Ya never know when somebody might ask how this is done. As an aside, mix phenol formaldehyde with liquid latex rubber and you end up making a thermosetting plastic, aka Bakelite.

I'm attempting to build a collection of cars used by the NYPD covering the years 1920-1972. Prior to 1958, all NYPD patrol cars were either 2 door coupes or sedans without rear seats. That's why, when you watch an old movie featuring police cars in NYC, you'll always hear a cop saying, "We sent for the paddy wagon" when skells needed to be transported downtown for booking. One of the first I'll be constructing will be a 1952 Ford Mainline Business Coupe. A Lindberg 1953 Ford Victoria will be the chosen victim for conversion. I used the Vic's side trim, and sanded it flush, to fill in the recesses on the body. This method is much simpler than trying to fill in these areas with either styrene or putty. Since the Business Coupe has a B pillar, I needed to scratchbuild the window frames. I managed this from a single piece of .040"/1mm styrene sheet by scribing out the windows and radiusing the corners to match the photo. Next, I had to do something with the backlight. Using the Vic body as-is wasn't going to work since the Business Coupe's rear window is more angled upright and shorter at the base. I cut the tulip panel just behind the lower window trim and the lower window frame 8mm from the rear of the C pillar, moving the cut section forward 7mm to make the new window opening. I needed to re-radius the upper parts of the opening to, once again, replicate the 1:1 shape. Swell, I got a new rear window opening. Now, I need a new rear window. I had some 1/4 x 3/16" basswood left over from an old model railroad bridge project; so, I cut and laminated the basswood into a block and moto-tooled away away to form a buck. The gray stuff on the buck is Magic-Sculpt two-part epoxy. I used it to adjust the curvature of the window. As you'll see, I also used Magic-Sculpt to fill in the cut on the tulip panel. It's easy to work with, carve , sand, machine and polishes glass smooth. When it dries, it's rock hard. I swear by this stuff. I formed the rear glass by cutting a ring section from a 2 liter soda bottle, placing the section around an empty pasta sauce jar, slipping the buck between them and tightening the soda bottle section by clamping the slack with vice grips to hold everything in place. Then, I used a heat gun, set on low, to shrink the bottle plastic around the buck. High tech it ain't; but, it works! The glass was cut and trimmed and this is what it looks like in a test fit: Fits like the proverbial glove. If I decide to do another Mainline, I'll need to redo the rear window. The height of the backlight needs to be increased about 2mm; but, I'm satisfied with the results so far. The window opening still needs some finishing. The next thing to work on will be the '53 grille, which needs heavy mods to look like a '52 type. That's what styrene tubes, rods and Magic-Sculpt were created for. Feel free to critique and/or criticize as you see fit. I'm always open to suggestions.

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I ain't saying that you should; but, it's always good to stay on your toes. I keep a copy of this book just to keep tabs on what me kit is planning. They are devious, diabolical and conniving.

Maybe all of this Star Wars overkill will mean I can snag a Hasbro Millennium Falcon for cheap again.

Tapatalk would have been a better platform choice than Invision. Network54 was recently acquired by Tapatalk and all of the NW54 fora were migrated to TT. More dependable and without all of the issues.

MCW '66 Biscayne 2Dr Sedan

Hmmm...no listing for it on the site.

Gator Grip Hobby Acrylic Glue is great stuff too. In addition to attaching glass, you can use it to mock up assemblies to check for fit and whatnot.

"Elementary" is a testament to that. If the original characters ain't broke, why try to fix them with a quirky new take?

I gots high standards. You can tell by who I associate with.

Nah, your photos are swell.

You overpaid. Ted's Stationery Store had'em for a buck seventy nine.

Sure, a model is a 3 dimensional subject. Unfortunately, a lot of people have a one dimensional eye when it comes to composing and taking photographs. How about twenty pics of a car model, eighteen of which are repetitive 3/4 perspective views of the front and rear ends. The remaining two are shots of the same tire/wheel/hubcap as seen from just under the fender when looking down.

Saw this beauty while taking a walk around the neighborhood earlier this evening:

Thanks, Ron. It was a better choice than the Lindberg Mopar chassis.No comparison as far as details were concerned.

Make them yourself. It's very simple. 1. Cut a piece of .040"/1.0mm styrene sheet a little larger than the length and height of the window opening. 2. Trim and adjust the rear portion to approximately match the contours of the C pillar and roof on the inner side of the body. 3. Take the piece of styrene, place it inside the body, with the front edge abutting the rear edge of the vent window frame and the upper edge as close to the roof. 4. Holding it in place, trace the shape of the area from the outside. Mark off where the door panel line is. This will be a reference point for the center of the B pillar. check reference pics to see if the B pillar is straight (90°) or,as found on some cars, at a rearward angle. If there's an angle, mark the appropriate location on the tracing near the roofline. 5. Mark a 1.0mm border, measured from the outer edge of the tracing, around the entire traced area. This is about the scale size of the frame. Scribe a line from the B pillar mark to the top of the tracing. Measure 0.5mm on either side of this line and draw vertical lines to the top. These lines will be the borders of the door an rear windows. 6. Scribe the inner areas until you can remove them. The lower portions of the windows on the finished part can be filed/sanded to 0.75mmif needed, to match the narrower ones seen on some cars. 7. Finish by smoothing the cut surfaces and, with some minor adjustments, it should fit perfectly into place. I try to explain the steps as clearly and concisely as possible; so, please excuse the verbose instructions. I converted the Lindberg '53 Ford Vic into a '52 Mainline Business Coupe using the above procedures. I wanted to build a car replicating the Fords used by the NYPD in 1952. This is a NYPD Mainline Business Coupe I want to model: This is the Lindberg body with the scratched window frame: Of course, I had to cut the window at and along the lower trim line and move it forward 9mm to get the proper rear glass dimensions. But, It was easy work. And, as David pointed out, the rooflines of hardtops and sedans can be different; so, use a lot of reference pictures to determine how much conversion work will be required.

Loved this show.

I used the chassis and running gear from the Revellogram '68 Charger to replace the less than detailed components of the Johan Police Pursuit Car which I'm building as a NYPD RMP. This is what the mockup looks like: I added an extra 5 mm, measured from the rearmost spring mounts, so that the gas tank is the proper length for a Fury I. Interestingly, the wheelbase of the '68 Charger kit measures out to exactly 119 mm (or 119 inches 1:1), which is the wheelbase for a C Body Plymouth. Now, I gotta get the Lindberg '64 Dodge 330 for the Slant 6. I also used a '59 Impala chassis, which I stretched and modified, to use under the Johan '64 deVille ragtop. I had to scratchbuild the front lower control arms since nobody makes AM parts and the same with the rear suspension.

You can download Enigma Simulator v7.0, TSEC/KL-7, WWII-era US M209 and Cold War-era Hagelin BC-52 cipher machine simulator software here.

This looks like an interesting project to build. It's an electronic replica of the German WWII-era cipher machine, known as the Enigma.I've always been interested in cryptology and this is right up my alley.

If the site was allegedly hacked and he hadn't been receiving emails and orders, how does he explain customers' credit card charges during that period? My cat could come up with a more credible story.

You could always use the JF body to model an abandoned and stripped car. Set it up on cinder blocks and you're good to go.

Open kits can be a problem too. How many times have you seen a kit listed and the seller indicates that he's not sure if all the parts are in the box but it looks complete? Why don't you look at the instruction sheet and inventory what's in the box? You know exactly what you're selling; so, cut the naive/stupid act.

Trainwreck? Not even close. What's the big deal about navigating the site? Under "Catalog", click on "Resin" and you are taken to the resin list. Scroll through the products until you get to Plymouth kits. You want to see what the kit looks like? Click the big red "Gallery" button, once again scrolling down until you find the model and click the link(s) to see photos of the built up item. Bandit Resins also produces a '64 Plymouth 2Dr Sedan; but, unlike the MCW offering, which consists of stock body, hood, grille, tailights, bumpers, interior, wheels & tires, & vac.glass, it only includes the body, hood and single headlight grille.