SfanGoch

From what I've read, guys have applied Alclad and other lacquer-based paints over Stynylrez with no issues. They recommend that the Stynylrez be allowed one or two days to fully cure. Play it safe and run some tests. Everybody's mileage may vary.

Bet you still jones after a knish with spicy brown mustard, dirty water dogs with mustard, sauerkraut and onions washed down with a Yoo-Hoo and and a slice which doesn't taste like a piece of cardboard coated with ketchup and topped with imitation pasteurized cheese product. If you don't........

Using a 3/4" lug nut as an example, a 0.7mm bolt head would work

C'mon, Ron. You ain't no lightweight transplant. You're from Lawnguylant. You can take it. Back in them pre-climate change ( ) 1970s, We used to have keg parties in the dead of winter at Greenpoint Playground, aka "Dupont Park", which was conveniently located right on the Brooklyn bulkhead of the East River. Of course, we would heist 2x4's from the neighboring lumberyard and start fires in a garbage can. We didn't want the beer to freeze. That the only decent place to get a gyro around here, Souvlaki House, permanently closed right before the holidays irked me. The two Greek guys were in business for over fifty years.

I got Rich Kotite's home number if they have second thoughts about Marvelous Marv.

Actually, Scale Hardware is now a division of Model Motorcars. Marvin purchased the brand name and inventory. Read about it here.

That covers just about 97% of customer service representatives I've had the displeasure of dealing with.

Less expensive and more detailed options here.

What are you looking for, PE, resin, machined? Here are some affordable options other than Studio 27 and other more expensive types. Aber makes a set of PE hexagonal bolts. You can check out the PDF assembly instructions using the link on that page. Aber also has machine turned 1/16 scale 1.6 x 4mm hex nuts & 1.6mm bolts and 1/35 nuts & bolts, any of which can be used for 1/24-1/25. Armor35.ru carries the full line of Masterclub resin nuts, bolts, rivets and fasteners. That's over 120 types and sizes, more than you'll ever possibly need. Masterclub's resin NBR&Fs are the best on the market and are multiscale. The casting is exquisite and the detail is amazing, even on the smallest ones. A bag of 110-200 pieces (depending on the size) costs $2.63 plus postage (which is really inexpensive). You can find some stateside online dealers carrying a few sets; but, they'll charge anywhere from $6 to $9 for them.

I'll bet you're right too, Bill. I'll pick up a couple of the older releases for 11 bucks a pop. I could live without the pad printed rubber. But, there you go with them negative waves again, maaaaaaan.

You might want to check that, Bob. according to this, studded snow tires are legal in Massachusetts from Nov. 2 to April 30. As of Oct. 2015, even the clowns here in New York are again allowing use of studded snow tires from Oct. 16 to April 30. Time to shred some asphalt!

Using loaded language to disparage a discussion ain't in the spirit of friendly public discourse. You must mean any moron or high imbecile. Idiots are only capable of self-preservation and don't possess the cognitive functions required for reason and judgement. Either of the former would also know that Easy Chrome, Alclad and Molotow are three completely different products with three different formulations and properties (permanence and durability come to mind) and wouldn't make the mistake of conflating the three into one neat package for the sake of argument. I consider durability and permanence as selling points. The ability to brush paint Easy Chrome is an additional plus. Alcohol based inks are inferior in those regards when compared to lacquer/enamel-based coatings. As a counterbalance io Matt Bacon and smhardesty's experiences, Erik Smith corroborated that Molotow Chrome does indeed dull and rub off after handling. You also missed where it was noted Also, if you read it carefully, they don't recommend any clear coats/varnishes, including the named product, because, as any moron or high imbecile knows, "Most varnishes tend to make dull or even “kill” chrome/natural metal finishes anyway." Unless you are using a manufacturer approved clear coat, you'll accomplish nothing except wasting your time and money. That said, even Testors Metalizers, for example are notorious for losing their natural metal sheen after the recommended sealer, or any clear overcoat is applied. But, you already knew that.

I don't have the kind of money to send all of the chrome parts I have to get replated.

Well. as Ace-Garageguy pointed out in the ALSA thread, that's more than enough to chrome at least 100 bumpers and grilles plus a whole lot of other chrome-worthy parts. Something to consider: how much would that cost if you had to send all that out to one of the professional plating services, maybe 4-6 times the cost of that one can?

I'm not buying any refills. I checked around for a ballpark price and Amazon on this side has them for $27-$31.18 each. As to it not rubbing off, I definitely beg to differ. It does. Who sez? This is taken directly from the Molotow website: "The ink is alcohol based, so it is advised not to cover it on the same day with an acrylic varnish (tests with Alclad Aqua ALC600 over Chrome resulted not so good). Other enamel or lacquered based clear cotes/varnishes should be used cautiously and only after experimentation (light mist first, many thin layers, not one wet). Using varnishes there is always the danger of solvent/thinner chemical reaction to destroy the finish. Using any kind of varnish/sealer/clear cote over chrome is generally not advised – unless it is absolutely needed (eg. decals, washes, etc). Most varnishes tend to make dull or even “kill” chrome/natural metal finishes anyway. Tests and practice are always advised before trying anything for the first time. Once the chrome paint is dry, it won't show accidental fingerprint impressions, but if you purposely touch or rub your finger across it a few times the finish does haze (normal handling will do so over time as well). So, let enough time to dry completely and do not touch the parts at all - before and after painting. Preparation and cleaning of surfaces are equally important. Use of protective (powder free) gloves are highly recommended at all times. The chrome painted surface is durable enough once dried after some hours (days - better to be on the safe side) and does not pick up easily fingerprints but if you keep handling the model with bare hands you risk rubbing the shine off, ruining a good job anyway. Chrome looks great as long as you never touch it. It is also advisable not to mask with tape over chromed painted surfaces. Make sure that the chrome is your last paint step." Here's the complete article titled The MOLOTOW LIQUID CHROME 1MM on plastic model wheels. This is straight from the manufacturer so I ain't just blowing wind outta me bone box.

You and me both. I have a couple of Moebius Jupiter 2's needing a chrome job.

People who spend their waking hours exercising their thumbs on a 2.5 x 4.5" screen think the concept of actually repairing something is one of those bogeyman tales one tells kids in order to get them to behave.

Elaborate on what you mean by "fishy". It looks fairly straightforward. There isn't any video hocus-pocus used to deceive the viewer. I'm going to get a can and empty Molotow markers after taking care of the rest of the Christmas-inflicted bills. One difference between Easy Brush and Alclad is that Alclad has to be airbrushed to achieve the finish. I tend to look for and use the simplest solution to simple problems. Use a small paintbrush like you would with normal hobby paint. Mask molded on trim and brush it on. Small parts can be painted the same way one normally does it, unless one thinks using an airbrush to apply paint on an ignition coil and two valve covers is worth the extra time and effort. Molotow offers a 1.5mm soft brush tip which can be used with the empty markers to paint parts. For small scale use, get some empty paint jars and store the amount of Easy Chrome you intend to use so you don't need to keep reopening the can.

I was interested in the Molotow Chrome pens until I checked out Skip Jordan's thread about ALSA Easy Brush. Sure, 200 bucks for a 4 oz. can sounds like a lot; but, that's just a bit more than the cost of four Molotow 30ml refills. Plus, unlike Molotow, it's a paint, not an ink. It won't rub off. The Easy Brush could probably be used in one of the Molotow empty markers to paint trim with.

Whaddya drinking?

Bruce, in what part of Canada do you live? If you happen to live in the one of Western Provinces, stop by Canada's version of Greenpoint, Saskatoon, and get a case of It's non-fattening and high octane. Just don't spill any on your car. It'll eat the paint.

Aqua Velva with a Coke chaser works for me.

That's the swellest bunch of vague generalities ever assembled in a single junk mail.

Think about how much more build time you'd have if you didn't waste it replying to posts in threads like this.

I was once a drinker of professional standing. Four times I woke up in a country (Denmark, Netherlands, France and Austria) other than the one I started drinking in (West Germany).