SfanGoch

The price is indicated in both yen and dollars, or any other currency you choose.

If you look to the right of the item, you'll see the following information: Manufacturer : Hasegawa Series : Hasegawa Trytool Release Date : Early Jul., 2018 List Price : 1,188yenabout11.06USD Sales Price : 1,045yenabout9.73USD Points Acquired : 10pointsOther Currencies JAN code : 4967834719293 Item code : TF929

Can't do anything about the price, Steve. Stateside online stores have an aversion to carrying what they consider "off" brands. That's too bad; because, there are a lot of cool and useful items available outside the usual suspects.

Try finding Thuds, Huns or Rhinos that are available to rent for a movie. Uncle Sugar didn't play that game. FFC had to make do with what he could get. The Phillipine government was amenable to leasing its equipment out for a movie shoot; so, Freedom Fighters it was. At least, M-47s weren't used as Tiger I stand-ins, as seen in more than a few films. "They Were Not Divided" a 1950 British film about the Guards Armoured Division, and "The Fall of Berlin", a Soviet movie also released in 1950, were unique in that they featured a large number of actual German vehicles, including Tiger Is and Panthers.

If the front and rear glass is connected by runners, you can use flexible stainless scribers and/or saws to remove the whole thing at once. Using the scriber or saw blades, score underneath the runners parallel to the roof. You should be able to cut through far enough to stick a flat chisel blade under the runners and pop the glass off. If the glass is glued to the front/rear frames, use the pointed scriber blade and gently score between the glass and frames, maintaining the blade in as much a parallel angle relative to the glass ass possible. The PE blades are extremely thin and flexible; so, don't worry about breaking them. After a few passes, the glass can be popped out with little or no damage to the window trim.

Sakura Japan has all three shades for $16.40 w/free shipping.

I prefer to eliminate extra work whenever it is possible. Windshield tint is one of those extra work steps, Steve. It comes in green and smoke, too.

There are a couple of sources for scale bricks and cinderblocks: http://www.juweela.de/de/produkte/massstab/sc/135.html https://www.hansasystemsusa.com/

Me, '79-'85. They were looking for people to train as Blackhawk door gunners in '80. I wanted to apply; but Top denied my request because I was the Unit Armorer. He said I already got to play with all the other toys in the closet. First Fred did let me attend MTU, though. Loved those XM-21s with Leatherwood ART scopes. you could castrate a fly at 1000 yds.

Not totally inaccurate. A combination of formations were used in that sequence: The formations used depended on the situation heading into a LZ and could be changed according to the threat in front. The scout helos would perform recon by fire to obtain an accurate SITREP and relay that info to the attack helos, directing them to targets on the ground. After the attack birds clear the LZ (s), the assault helos land in the LZ to dismount troops. Those helos would never actually "land". They would hover 2-21/2 feet above the ground. I was part of the largest air assault lift ever conducted in CONUS in 1981. The entire 101st aviation Group was involved, moving the entire 1/506 INF in a single lift. To see that many scout, attack and assault helicopters in the air simultaneously is truly a sight no one forgets. I served a few years after Vietnam and we still were training under Vietnam-era airmobile/air assault doctrine. When assigned to C/1/506 INF , we had taxi service provided by 158 and 159 Aviation Battalions (Asslt) flying the recently introduced UH-60A Blackhawk. There were still some UH-1D models and it was a blast sitting on the floor with your feet on the skids while the pilot was flying NOE at treetop altitude. Quite a few 17 Deltas from 2/17 Cav, flying in Kiowas picked up the Stetson look because it just was so right. When deployed to Ft. Sherman, Canal Zone, for JOTC qualification training, we did cool stuff like jumping out of Hueys onto a jungle canopy platform then rappelling to the ground. The most tedious operations were with CH-47D Shitehooks. A majority of the time, we'd have to climb in and out of them using a ladder while the helo was hovering 25-30 feet above the ground. These birds have a 60 ft.rotor diameter; so, it's like trying to walk into a hurricane climbing up the ladder due to the rotor wash. Man, I miss those days.

Nice work! I was nine years old and attending a wedding reception on July 20, 1969. I made my way to the bar in the front of the reception hall so i could watch this on TV.

The Imperial Crown and Dart 440 are 4-doors. The others are 2 DR. Hey, AMT reissued the '59 Imperial; so, there must be some interest in gaudy late '50s - early '60s Mopars. The early '60s, Chrysler products, with the exception of the 1960 MY, are unattractive to the point they are interesting; more so than the stodgy, boring, slab-sided boxmobiles from Ford of the same vintage.

Man, all of those micro-details are simply amazing. In love it!

It's known as jetting and is caused by temperature variations within the material flow entering the mold cavity.

Yes. This allows the dark brown that you'll dab on to blend with the wood base color, creating the burled look. It's fairly easy to do. No prior experience necessary.

Testors Acryl paints have a slower drying time compared to Tamiya. You can brush on a fairly heavy coat of MM 4763 Wood for the base. Then, dab a dark brown over the Wood with a fine brush in a random swirling pattern. You can even dab some thinned black to impart a fancy-schmancy Black Forest Walnut burl look As Steve indicated, overcoat with clear yellow or clear orange. Or, just clearcoat with acrylic gloss or even Pledge whateverthehellitscallednow.

Which acrylics?

METALFLAKE was a product of the Dobeckmum Company, a division of the Dow Chemical Company, introduced in 1959. Inside every Custommetal Show car kit box, a , a small piece of paper stating METALFLAKE was a Dow trademark, was inserted . The History of METALFLAKE.

Like Steve said. get a pack of those foam-tipped cleaning swabs just dab the paint on in irregular patterns, let it dry, buff it down to remove any possible high spots and seal the whole mess with gloss clear.

There were six, not five, cars in the Custometal Show car series: H-1262 Dodge Dart 440 - the body was altered to produce the Revellion Funny Car H-1263 Dodge Lancer GT H-1264 Chrysler Newport Convertible H-1260 Valiant V-200 H-1265 - Imperial Crown H-1261 Plymouth Fury

That looks fabulous, Ray. Very well done. I built this kit right after the landing and agin in fifth grade as a member of an after-school science club. There are 3D printed detail parts for Apollo spacecraft of various scales available at Shapeways: Space Models by Vincent Meens A05 To 11-FUD-MS Interior F10-Panels 8-11 Lunar Module Ascent Stage - Fine Detail Plastic

That is the Dart 440 body. This is the '62 Lancer

The Fury and Dart bodies measure almost exactly to their Johan counterparts. Heck, the glass from the Johan kits fits perfectly in the Revell frames. I sprayed some dark grey Vallejo Model Color (easy to clean with rubbing alcohol or Windex ) on the Revell bodies and, visually, they compare quite well to either Johan body. The geared wheel backs I'm not crazy about. The interiors are shallow, like the Johans; but, a small amount of corrective surgery will fix that problem. If Atlantis does have the molds, I'd snag every one (Fury, Dart, Valiant V-200, Newport, Lancer and Imperial Crown) of those Mopars. Johans will never be reissued, SMH and Missing Link resin bodies notwithstanding; and, no manufacturer is going to tool up new ones.

You want ugly? The Zeppelin-Staaken R.XVI heavy bomber would ba near, or at the top, of that list.

Johan chassis aren't anything to write home about, either. I use, and have about ten as replacements, Lindberg '64 Mopar chassis, interiors and suspension sets to stuff under the bodies. They also work under the Revell bodies with a bit of finessing. Stretched AMT '57 Chrysler 300 or '58 Belvedere chassis and floorpans can be used under the Imperial. The one pictured is the '58 Belvedere frame and floorpan extended to a scale 122", which will fit perfectly under a Hendrix Resin '57 or "58 Dodge HT.