stitchdup

i was told the water wasable resin has an issue with shrinkage. The first 32 body i printed was the water wash and the second was normal resin and it turned out better. On the first one the sides were a bit twisted and i thought it was down to me removing the supports before curing but i did the same on the second body and it didn't happen. I'm still very inexperienced so it might just be me doing something wrong still. Hot water still works to flatten or reshape parts though, I've curved some door panels for the 32 by sitting them on a cloth and pouring kettle water over them for a few seconds and then under the cold tap once shaped. It worked better than it does on styrene for me

I'm not going to let it get me down, I knew the job wasn't going to last forever as the boat has been on sale for a while now so I've been buying and trading a lot of plastic in preperation. And I have enough to keep me going for a good length of time. Once i get my final wage I'll head to the factors and get a load of paints and primers to last a while. I'm also going to get in touch with my internet service to see if I can pay 6 months in advance so that is taken care of. It'll be kinda nice not being confused by what day it is as working week on/week off at nights I have to check my phone to see what day it is, and i wont be trying to swap between days and nights every week. I think I'll ask if they need someone on standby for relief work too which might be a foot in the door when any jobs come up. And the biggest bonus is i wont have to deal with incompetant guy that cant even lift the toilet seat again so thats got me pleased

For me the printer is just having the aftermarket on my bench. I like volkswagens (and the rest of their brands) and unless its an air cooled van, beetle or golf theres just not that much out there in the aftermarket unlike american cars that are pretty well catered to. Now i have the printer I can have most of them if i want for not too much money. A resin body tends to run around £50-75 but i can generally buy the file for around £7 and print it for less than £3. And theres no international postage on top either. Its not going to replace the plastic in my stash, but it will be a compliment. For example I knew I'd be printing a few audi bodies so I planned ahead and got a case of the etrons to use for interiors and chassis and I have mk6 golf which if it has been done right will take all the undies from a fujimi mk5 golf (the mk6 was just a restyle on the mk5 so the glass is all the same). I still want to customise everything to the point that the 32 I printed has been engine swapped with a file from elsewhere. It not going to replace traditional modelling for me, but hopefully it will compliment it. When it comes to doing drawing I'm firmly in the pencil and paper camp and my phone is still an old nokia cos I have a laptop and camera so why would i need that on a phone (and the battery last over a week on a full charge). Will having the printer stop me buying plastic, well the answer to that is no cos theres kits coming out I've been waiting for and I'm still going to buy them. Sure I could probably find the files and print them myself but a kit has glass and lights which the prints tend not to have, or they have all those bits as part of a one piece body so its not as simple as just printing it out so there will be some scratchbuilding and kit bashing. I guess what I'm trying to say is its more a complimentary tool rather than a replacement at least in my eyes.

I wasn't trying to put you off. Before i got the printer my only real computer experience was surfing the web and playing games. Another problem was I had nobody i go to and ask for help as all the printer folks i know used the other priter type, not resin like i have. I'm sure I'd have got going much easier if there ws someone local i could get to come and help. I also spent a little more as I wanted to print bodies as well as parts. I spent the extra for the bigger machine because i knew i wanted to do larger items so didn't see any point buying a small machine only to have to spend again later. When it works it is fantastic and in time it will save me money and gives me much more choice in building cars that were never kitted. Like i said i get more help on here than elsewhere. I've printed a pro street chassis and a hot rod kit and both of those turned out great to my eye, but at the same time other things havent turned out at all but thats user error on my part. This is the first body i printed and the damage is my own fault. The second one turned out great heres the second, altogether the full kit cost around $20 including purchasing the files. I havent even tried drawing up my own stuff. Its fought me loads but i'm starting to get the hang of it and while i have cursed the thing, I'm still pleased with it and i'm learning where i went wrong before

a pic might help, lol

first make sure you have at least 8 gig of processor in the laptop or it wont be able to run the slicer, i didn't and ended up having to buy a new laptop that did. I have a anycubic photon mono x and the wash/cure station which was bought together from a seller on ebay for around £500 but i would expect there to be better deals now christmas is by with. depending on what resin you use you'll also need 99.9 alcohol if not using water washable resin, lots of disposable gloves, filter funnels and a funnel just for use with the printer. I still have trouble with my prints but its user error on my part as its all new to me. Afew decent sized tubs are useful too for pre washing parts. Its a steep learning curve so if theres kids in the house maybe get them some ear plugs as there will be plenty cursing while learning too. I didn't even look at mine for a month as nothing was working for me to begin with and i was close to throwing it out the window quite a few times so be prepared for that. I got more help on here than any of the printer forums too so read the 3d printing thread as it has a lot of good info from folk doing what we do

I'll play along. Kit is one of the nunu bmw e46 touring cars but I'll be making a stanced road car using a uscp interior kit with a front seat swap from a ferrari trans kit. Wheels will be custom deep dish 19" 5 spokes with the brakes from the ferrari transkit as well. Colour will be as close to the e46 green as i can get with a humbrol army green and tamiya pearl, possibly with another pearl from from duplicolour too.

Nice job on the wheel mate, if you give the wood you've done a dusting of clear orange it'll be spot on for the nardi wheels that a lot of these get

it wasn't my original plan but i had printed the wheels already and it just seemed fitting this week. The next one (i bought a full case of them cos there just not enough audi kits) will be porsche macadamia brown pearl with an orange interior on big gt3 rims and absolutely slammed on the floor. i found a steering wheel to match the wheels too.

let us know how you get on with the roth paints, even with shipping across the pond they'll be cheaper for me than house of kolor

Well this has turned into a tribute build to Ken Block. It would have been finished today but i ran out of black paint for the window surrounds and have no clear red apart from brush stuff so both of those are ordered. The glass is just placed in for the pics at the moment. If you are building one of these you will need to make sure every trace of the sprue attachments are gone or the glass wont fit. The passenger side glass also needs the centre bottom attachment trimmed as its a little off, and I'd recommend gluing the glass anyway as the front and rear attachments are too short to hold the glass in. And the rear interior attachments are very out of place so that bit will need glued but it still works if you just remove the nubs from the bck of the interior tub. I didn't bother painting the interior on this one as its already all black and looks decent, besides there little point going to the trouble of painting black plastic to look like black plastic. I did paint the exterior plastics black as they are gloss on Ken's audi. Hopefully the post aint on strike before my paint arrives so i can get this finished. Apart from the wheels and paint this is box stock

an estate and a shooting brake are 2 different cars. An estate car is what you call a wagon but a shooting brake isn't. https://blog.japanesecartrade.com/what-is-shooting-brake/

I called elon musk a spoiled man child on twitter 4 years ago. Today my account got deleted, lol

Nice project. Seeing your side view I'm kinda taken aback by how much overhang there is at the back, hid must make turning in traffic a bit of a nightmare

I use duplicolour clear plastic primer. if it lays down smooth it will polish up to a nice shine and if it doesn't lay smooth a couple coats of duplicolour clear does the job

the vintage version

I'll be ok, should be a decent chunk of redundancy money and it should last a bit since i'll be able to get my rent paid for me til i find something. who knows, i might even get a model done

I've been made redundant. Maybe got one weeks work left then i have to deal with the nasty jobcentre which is really an oxymoron since they dont have any details about jobs and always look for the best way to not pay unemployment. I'll find out what/if theres any compensation on weds. At least i have a massive stash of models and the printer to keep me going.

This pic popped up on another site i use. It says its from 1947 but i dont know any more than that though i suspect they have the wrong date since it has white walls. I just thought some of you might get a kick from seeing it

I'm having problems again. I've been trying to print some drag suspension parts from mcsdesign that are quite delicate. Some of the parts are under 1mm in diameter so I used the 1mm light supports on a raft as the medium supports are larger than the parts. I thought this would be the way to go but the supports are falling off the raft. I've tried printing them with the medium supports and they print fine but the supports being wider than the part seems to be causing them to print warped. I've tried changing the angle the parts print at but it seems to make no difference. this is some of the parts I'm trying to print and most are pretty similar in sizes https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/funny-car-front-hubs-n-brakes-n-suspension I've also noticed the resin seems to be seperating while the printer is is in use which hasn't happened before even when using mixed resins. Quite often ther is a clear layer on top of the print plate after about an hour. The bottle of resin used when this happens is a fresh bottle so is it a bad batch?

very cool, even the interior looks more boat than car

they are faces like amt rims but i can fit them to any barrel size

After getting 5 bottles of printer resin from amazon for the price of one, which must have been a mistake in the listing, they just delivered another 5 bottles

I am still entering, just waiting for my kit to arrive. My first choice wasn't in stock so i told the guy in the shop what i was intending to build and to surprise me with something boxy and japanese. The big surprise is its lost somewhere in dhl's network and has been for a month

man your flying through this, my kit hasn't even arrived yet