stitchdup

i'd use automotive touch up paints or lettering enamels. their made to be used outdoors unlike hobby paints

just another thought, before you decide how much to shorten it, have a look at the chassis. you might find some of the body support ribs line up with the cuts, and if you cut through them it will give you more area to glue it back together which will be stronger than joining 2 end pieces. good luck

I was speaking to a farmer friend this afternoon and he mentioned he was short a couple of acres, so i booted him in the nuts. Some people just dont know how to show gratitude for a kind deed

do your first cut on the rear edge of the front doors. now you can remove as much or as little as you want as long as its in front of the rear wheels, after the rear arches the body tapers and wont line up without more cutting. you may have to cut the roof further back at the front due to the curves but there should be enough to just step the roof cuts 10mm further back than the door edge. stepping the cuts will add a little more strength too but i'd still glue some reinforcing tabs on the inside of the joins to be safe. as long as your cuts are square to each other it should work pretty well. to help with lining it up for rejoining I'd cut a template of the body line along the bottom of the windows (when looking down) before any cutting, then sue that to line up the body after the cuts. if they're not square you'll know from this before you do any gluing and save some clean up work. if you want to make it even easier on yourself, you could shorten it the length of the side doors, on the but they are only held with 6 tabs and if the van is the same you could use the doors to mark the cuts on the other side if you remove them first

Cool build, its like an updated range rover overfinch, they used to convert them to small blocks and upped the luxury to rolls and bentley levels

I'm at work this week. i dont have the other computer with me

i can see it now, a massive playing card to stick in the wheel spokes

its not a smooth surface, it feels similar to a non stick frying pan with fractional dimples

I've done the z axis every time i've removed the build plate or tank. I'm going to try and find someone local that has some experience to pop along and see what i'm doing wrong. I'll give your resin a try,maybe its just the resin thats wrong. the prints seem to stop sticking to the plate when it starts printing the first layers of the parts and then it either sticks to the tank or half of the prints droops down. its got to be somethig simple i'm doing wrong, i just cant figure it out

Still having no luck with the prints. I've used nearly 2 bottles of resin and all i have to show for it is a few new cuss words. tried asking for help on a 3d print forum and got nothing but abuse from a group of self rightous manchilds. I've used the settings anycubic recommend, other people settings and yet my prints either fall off the plate or stick to the tank. I've warmed the plate and resin before starting, i've done the set up multiple times but every print fails. I'm starting to get irritated by this now, thats 60 quid of resin and nothing to show. where am i going wrong? i dont mind having some fails while i learn but every print is a fail no matter what i do. im about ready to hit the thing with a big hammer

theres a 1/24 resin traveller that pops up on ebay (wagon) but its best avoided. lots of holes and other problems, and its some of the hardest resin i've had. the motor museum in miniature one is very nice but kinda expensive but its by far the best one out there

Have been trying to find some help with my 3d printer on a reputedly popular 3d forum's newbie section. Nothing but abuse from a group of pretentious know it alls or you should know this already you idiot comments, nothing to help at all. I can nearly guarentee they all own teslas and i phones and have "ironic" beards.

Well I had a bit of luck. I left the tank upside down in the sink to try cleaning in the morning and when i got some water a few minutes ago it had fallen off by itself and the plastic is flat again. Thanks for the advice. Would warming the plate in front of the heater before starting a print help?

it was probably a bit cold, the fumes were giving me a sore head so i had all the windows open. I'll give that a try. It feels like it put an indent in the clear part too. I was printing a set of wheels and tyres. I did notice on the anycubic website that all the resins had the same settings. I've not ordered a new tank yet so hopefully i'll save 70 quid

it was supposed to be 96 2" bolts,

I found the problem. Why would this have happened? I need to buy a new tank now which is annoying. I followed the set up correct, I double checked when it failed and using the settings anycubic recomend for their own resin and it ruins the tank.

I'm using lychee slicer. my second print didn't adhere to the plate at all. it went through all the motions but there was no print. i'm now on my third attempt and i'm using the setting from anycubics website this time along with an island base to see if it helps, and i've lowered the layers to 0.05 to increase the speed. I went through all the set up again too just in case i missed something but it all looks to be correct. could it be my using the water washable resin thats the problem? I've been told it has a quite high shrinkage rate so could it be the shrinking pulling the print off the plate? If this print fails I'll try maximising the supports on the next one. I expect to have more fails but i made sure to get extra resin so I'm not going to run out. I'm not getting upset over the fails which i would be if it was a model build failure so thats making me hopeful, usually i lose interest in things when they dont work quickly for me but this is keeping my interest but thats probably cos its totaly new to me, i still use a nokia phone and my camera is a camera is my tech level. I'm still excited by the possibilities so i think i'll manage to stay interested enough to keep going. If its still failing on the second bottle of resin is where i'll be getting annoyed, lol

My first print failed. half the supports fell off the plate at some point before it got above the tank. It did keep printing and the parts that were printed looked ok, the side that failed was a blob. I cancelled that print at the point i could see it had failed I think its because the supports were too small so attempt number 2 is under way with bigger supprts so theres a pool for them to start from. my first attempt was more like lilly pads in a pond.

you can if you coat it with sealer first. gauzy shine enhancer or s-02 both worked for me. I was using duplicolour clear

My deodrant and tamiya rattle tins are the same size. I used to do all my spraying in the bathroom as it has a good extractor. I got out of the shower and sprayed my armpits suburu blue

It depends what your putting it in. some 1/24 kits look ok with a 1/25 engine but others will look out of place. If it looks ok to you in a pic then it should be ok.

crab and lobster always go into deeper water when it gets cold. if they stay in shallower water they end up smashed against the rocks

They'll probably start doing longer trips further offshore. thats what the fishermen did when the grounds shut on this side of the pond. My best guess is they'll be working the boats further south and in much deeper waters

wrong turns can often lead to great finds when on a road trip

lies behind the old oak tree does the farm mutt