stitchdup

if you think duplicolour primer is bad, then simoniz are saying hold my beer, but the beer would probably be a better primer.

very cool, my dad used to have the vauxhall version in almost the colour you painted yours. He had a darker blue 4dr saloon version with a ford v6 too and a van for work in babypoo brown with white panels on the glass line.

how thick can you paint? on the hinges and holes they go into only. it might hold for one show but would damage the paint when repositioned. maybe the hoods are off to let the judges get a closer look though as i dont think they would want to handle them too much

its been cold since the start of november but i can still paint as i have my hobby room heated. Its the wind direction that stop me painting as most of the time its blows up the hose which kinda defeats the purpose of the booth, lol. Having said that we seem to have a lot less strong winds than we used to and its not for as long when we do get it. I remember week long storms and now they seem barely a day long.

could be a fun custom, 49 chevy truck grille, shorten the rear fenders slam it and its done?

I dont have experience with the printer but i have files from the designer. having looked at it on cults that one might be a solid model as its scaled from 1/87 and there are other versions available. You might be happier if you find someone to print one of these for you https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/lamborghini-lm002-pickup-1986-printable-car-in-separate-parts https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/lamborghini-lm002-pickup-1986-printable-car the printing hub one is 1/10 but they rescale most of their files if you ask. It might not scale down very well in the slicer and i've had them do it for their files for me which they didn't charge for. The hora80 files are a little toyish and usually need everything scribed and the usual cycles of primer and flatting but their not bad for the price and they have somethings nobody else has

if you still have the paint try and test it some scrap sprue from another kit. it could be something between the primer and plastic and it would let you know if its a bad can. I've got a tin of their filler primer that sprays out fibres of primer instead of what i would call paint. its not even the same colour as filler primer usually is

thinking about how i spent my childhood climbing tall cliffs without ropes its a wonder i survived

The gold would be a more unusual colour scheme. The two tone on the fenders is something i might borrow for something else. I haven't seen it done that way before

given how few cars were in my area at that time, any number over 1000 is a more recent plate. its also one of the last you can still get new andpreviously unused from the dvla. bs1 through 6 were all owned by billy smarts circus at one time. I did a bit of research on the bs numbers for the local vintage club when they did a display of original orkney cars.

facts have seemingly joined the dodo bird in extinction

fv would be preston, lancashire i believe. my local plate was bs but the dvla say its aberdeen but its not, it is only orkney

the only way to be sure is to read the cans. the info you want is the overcoat times, some are overcoatable within a couple of hours or wait a week, while others are more general and just leave to dry overnight. does it work any better if you use a different colour of primer? the non grey cans (red/brown/white/black) tend be the general primers. The primer itself is forgiving if you are recovering with primer so timing isn't as important with it unless you switch colours. also, does your paint need clear maybe? it could be worth testing that if the paint is just flat. but then humidity could play a part too and cause the paint to go flat. it might be worth trying a colour restoring polish on it too. it says the type of primer on the front of the can. the can you posted has it about a third down the tin and it should say on each tin in roughly the same place.

some of the duplicolour primers have a fairly tight time for overcoating them or else you have to leave them for a few days. with some of them if you dont apply the final colour within 2 hours, you'd have to leave it around a week to fully gas. but since duplicolour like to have continuity in their packaging you have to read the tin to find out which primer it is. my local shop only carries the one with no time limit as they had a lot of complaints when they had both (because who reads the label?)

I haven't used it for a long time but since its a fleet enamel its likely it wont have the finish you're used to. fleet enamel is more about a quick covering paintjob than a nice finish so it will cover well but you may find it has a lot more orange peel. we only used it for trucks and plant when i was in the bodyshops. I'm not saying you cant get a good finish with it but you can find better options unless using it as a filler primer. Does it say if its sandable on the tin? the stuff we used wasn't and gummed up wet n dry unless you used a lot of dish soap

not sure of the scale but its should be easy enough to rescale it if you have access to a 3d printer https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/golf-bag-printable-plus-set-of-clubs

I assembled the body today. I've added some small tabs of 0.1 sheet for strength as the butt joints looked like they would fail. My reason for assembling the body was there is a big uglt seam across the top of the roof and assembly after paint would not look good so i'm 5 steps ahead of where i should be but it should work out. I used the floor and door panels to help with aligment of the panels. other than the roof it all went together pretty well but there are a couple of areas where the 2 parts are different thicknesses so some filler will be needed. I took a couple pics with the same scale 39 chevy to show how big this car is.

Tim Boyd hasn't posted his detroit autorama pics yet. I always look forward to his coverage as he seems to be more open to designs that are outside the norm. The magazines/blogs all show the same 6 cars over and over again while Tim shows everything, good or bad

yeah, they appeared just as i hit submit, lol. thanks

I hope you do, everytime i've tried using epoxy i find i have less control over it. I do use it reinforce behind things where it wont be seen but i'd like to learn more uses for it. Theres one kit in particular i think it would work for me on as superglue and hobby glue have both failed on it so epoxy seems the way to go

most of the earliest mention i've seen were mid 70s for street cars. seems they really took off in the mid 80s as thats when most companies seem to have set up shop. I imagine old bonneville cars would have been among the first to use them on cars for racing since there seemed to be a lot of aerospace gys involved with it. as for when they came about i would guess on aircraft they became most needed when jets were first starting out but that just a guess

I got the engine and chassis mostly assembled this afternoon. I've left some parts off as the colour call outs are everything gloss black but I wont be following them. It would make for a pretty uninteresting engine bay and the engine itself is a nice enough piece to warrant some changes. I'll probably stick with mostly black but the finishes will be different and some parts will be chromed or maybe body colour. Before i do much more I'm going to read ahead in the instructions to see if i can fit the rest of the chassis pieces before painting. The rear suspension will be lowered with blocks but the front is a unusual looking piece and not the style i was expecting. I think to lower it I'm going to remove the ends on the outside of the brackets and drill them for pins so i can lower the suspension at the end. If i drill both parts it will give me a strong mount and keep the wheels centred. Speaking of the wheels, i might be able to use the stock ones as they fit the bomb look if i add a trim ring and white walls. I've been looking at the body too and i think I have a way to assemble it without the interior to make painting easier as otherwise i'll have an ugly seam across the front of the roof. I'll probably have to use the interior to keep it square while gluing but there will be some small tabs underneath to reinforce some edges as they are a butt join so wont hold without them. I have some 0.1 sheet ill layer for that as i need to be sure the interior will still mount. So far everything has fitted well but everyparts has needed more clean up than usual. The plastic is a little softer than usual too, being similar to heller car kit plastic. top and bottom views of front axle.

I've put my vw back in the box before i throw it at the wall. The glass for it is fighting me and to fix it i need to make a tool so until i can get hold of a very small tap and die set its on hold. So since verything else thats on my bench is held up for one reason or another i thought I'd make a start on this. Since I plan on doing it in a bomb lowrider style that should mean the only mod is slamming and wheels. I'm going to use a set of printed wheels from slowlysmodels and i might use a dropped axle from digitalsurface if its the correct width but the rest will just be paint and a few accesories. I got this kit cheap as it didn't include instructions and after getting help on here i contacted icm in ukraine and had a new set in 2 weeks and they would not take any money for them which was nice of them. I guess i should stop waffling now and open the box. I'm not looking forward to the 8 piece body but we'll see how it goes

when i use the filler primer on small parts i dont decant. I drill the part to attach a peice of firm wire then i will spray the primer upwards while spinning the part in the cloud of primer. It works better than you might think

when i worked in bodyshops we just used some new tights/nylons. I cant remember now what denier they were but we used to buy them by the case. we got about 30 strainers out of each leg. dont be tempted to use naural fabric ones, we need the men made ones to avoid fibres also, on this side of the pond blowing chunks means violent vomitting