Can-Con

That's what I did on mine too. Should have probably narrowed that bumper a bit too but it was built over 35 years ago, no easy access to reference pics back then.

Seems like you took the long way around Dennis. They look good but maybe I'm missing something here??

Very sharp. 👍👍👍

Oh Yea, definitely. I do have a cheap knockoff like that but I've never tried it yet as I have 2 350 badgers that work fine so I've never had it out of the packaging. The only reason I have it is it was passed down to me by my aunt when my uncle passed away so. 😐 BTW, you can buy a 350 at Michaels for under 50 bucks. Like I said, it's pretty well all I use and I've had 2 magazine covers with cars I've painted with them.

Looks really good to me too. Too bad about the decal problems. I understand there's been a few issues with Round 2 decals lately. BTW, pretty sure only the latest reissue of that kit ever had the side stripe decals.

The black airbrush in the pic of the kit looks exactly like my Badger 350s I've been using for decades with no problems that I didn't cause myself.

Aw man, I wish I knew that before I painted my Trans Am with one. 😟 Probably would have come out much better if I had, I guess.

Pretty sure all those Jo-Han AMCs actually scale out to 1/24. I measured the Javelin I have and it does. But, yea, even then it looks a bit small.

I nice "factory stock" correct wheel for the '66 Shelby would also be the Cragar G/Ts in the MPC '68 Dodge Coronet kits. That's what I have always planned to use when I build one.

'69 Dart wheelbase is 111", '69 Barracuda wheelbase is 108". Not exactly a "drop in". About 1/8" difference in 1/25 scale.

They're all the same except the bodies. Both grilles are on the chrome trees of all those kits but no stock headlights or tail lights in any of them. The 1/24 you saw was probably the old Monogram '53 BelAir. Completely different kit.

Looks great. Some nice mods going on here. 👍

OK, I gotta ask, and don't take this as putting you down or anything like that but, ,I gotta ask, What's the deal with the personal crusade about getting this particular kit reissued? You say you got yours but you even use "Please re-issue the 1971/1972 Plymouth Road Runner" as your screen name. You've been here for almost 9 years. If you had put away one buck for every day you've been here you could easily have had enough to buy a dozen sealed ones even at the prices you say they've been going for. So, seriously, what's the deal? Just , , , why? 🤨❔

I didn't have enough paint from my original batch to do the repaint so I had to mix up some more. The inner fenders are the original paint, the rest is the new batch. I think it's a pretty good match. I paid more attention to my prep work this time and added a couple details I didn't do the first time. In addition to the sunken cowl for the windshield wipers I added a lip inside the rear window opening so I can cut the glass down and mount it from the outside and will have the floor of the box separate so I can display it open to show the rear suspension etc. Going to make a couple struts from aluminum tubing to hold it up when open.

Congratulations on your creativity and problem solving skills. 👍

That has to be the old "Skip's Fiesta" reissue judging from the color. 😉 I've never had that version of the kit but it looks like it had some nice parts included in it like those Porsche Fuchs wheels.

AMT Phantom Vicky will give you a good chassis with independent front suspension but not forward slanting. It'll get you pretty close though. It's been released a few times so should be pretty easy to find.

Well Carl, lets see , , , Dropping the cowl itself wouldn't affect the hood fit. The issue will be when I add the photoetch wipers. If I don't do this the wipers may hold the hood up when it's done. The suspension wasn't bad to adapt to this application. Just had to make sure I kept it all square and symmetrical. There was some trial and error with it as would be any time you adapt parts from one kit to another. Had to adjust the placement of the rear axle a couple times for height and wheelbase but it was expected.

Name recognition pure and simple. For a lot of us the Jo-Han name is not " an old tired one that's left a bad taste in people's mouth" but one that you know while there's a %99 chance that the chassis, engine etc. is lacking you're gonna get a body that's more accurate then most of the North American stuff that's been made in the last 40 years.

That car was in the news a couple years ago. https://art-for-a-change.com/blog/2022/11/last-generation-attacks-andy-warhol-bmw.html

Just go to their website and take a pic of the 40% off any item coupon with your phone and show them the pic at the checkout. I do it whenever I buy a model there. Or just go to the website on your phone while in the store, works just fine also. Works out to about 30 bucks.

I'll be wanting to add photoetch wipers but there's not enough room between the hood and cowl as molded, so I'm dropping the cowl a little for room. First glued the firewall onto the cowl solidly just at the top edge. and cut the section out behind it flush with the back of the firewall. Then simply glued it back in slightly lower to make room for the wipers and added a thin strip across the bottom for the sheetmetal at the bottom of the glass on the real trucks. Not 100% correct to the 1/1 trucks but this truck isn't exactly "factory stock" anyway. I'm gonna let it sit for a while and trim the sheet off following the back edge of the hood before priming.

This is also Tamiya pearl yellow but looks completely different. It's over bare plastic. Be aware though, being yellow, this paint is quite transparent and can under some circumstances have a green tint to it when used over grey primer.

Good points Mark. I must admit, I did misread Greg's post and thought he was specifically asking about the '32/'33 kits.

That was it but the roadster was out in a few more reissues, not the panel though. Possibly a couple more then pictured here..