dragstk

You weren't kidding when you said louver mania! And another very good build., as usual from you.

Barbadoes Rex recently did a video with a spray booth that uses a water fall to help vent fumes. That part doesnt apply here, but what he was venting into does. The exhaust of the spray booth was covered in some charcoal filter material and tightly inserted into the lid of a 5 gallon pail. And he had water in the bottom of the bucket. What I am talking about is about 6 mins in. I have never tried this, maybe it might work for you?

The best stuff Ive found to remove chrome is Scalecoat. I got it at a hobby train store. Its a little pricy but it does well at removing that coating under the chrome. Ive been using the same bottle for 3-4 yrs now https://www.hobby1.com/scalecoat-ii-wash-away-paint-remover.html

@Bob-Your reply answered one of my questions. Dry sanding it is. @Jason- I think Im going follow your path. I think Ill lay off trying to spray acrylics for bodies, or maybe I just get better...? @Mike-Ive heard that craft paint works well. And at some point I may try them. But until I get better at the air brush, I dont want to add another variable. Thank you to all who took the time to write. I appreciate it

@Dusty- Im trying to go to acrylics because of the chemicals in enamel and lacquer. I know Model color is not air brush ready and that has been my problem. But I thinned the paint 50% paint/25% Vallejo flow improver/25% Vallejo thinner. It sprayed pretty well. I wondered if the paint is just to soft to sand, maybe its just the nature of the beast? Hence the questions. I may get a dehydrator. And I may go to using enamel and lacquers for bodies, but being new to air brushing, I was curious and wanted to learn how to spray acrylics. As far a models go, I like stepping into areas I dont know and trying new things. Thank you for your thoughts @Hugh-Ive never heard of dry sanding acrylics. Ive had bad luck dry sanding enamels and lacquers. It just loads up the sand paper. But this is something Im going to try. Thanks for the tip.

Im pretty new to using an air brush. I think I have a handle on enamel and lacquer, but have struggled to spray Vallejo Model color. But I thought I had a handle on it and sprayed my first body. The paint went on pretty well, and other than a couple of small issues,I was happy. I then set it aside for a week. I wanted to deal with the small issues before clear coating. I wet sanded the body with 4000 grit. And right away, the paint felt soft. I went as light on pressure as I could but the paper actually cut/gouged into the paint. So my question(s) is- Did I not let it dry long enough? Is this how acrylic dries (really soft). Would a dehydrator help this? Any help here would be appreciated. Thanks for reading

You might check out a U tube channel called Kota Scale Models. He builds primarily bikes. He has a simple bike stand that I believe he made himself. Even if he didnt , it wouldn't be to hard to copy it

I tried a few of the colors, but I wasn't to impressed. It is quite thick. But for me in the tin itself. Its a pain to open and not bend the lip and once the channel the lid fits in gets paint in it, then they are harder to close. I don't think Ill be changing over to these any time soon

Thanks Luke for writing this up. This is something that is going to take some practice, but seeing your results, it is achievable. Thanks again for the lesson.

Nice job, Craig. Im about 1/2 way through the same kit and I agree with your take on it. I hope mine comes out as nice as yours

I will ask Badger to let me know what the issue is. I am curious myself

NICE, that is really nice! Very clean

@DPNM-I did wonder about that, but I dont know how to check it. And if it hadn't warped/bent 2 needles, I might have ignored it. @Dave G.-I cant seem to get a consistent spray pattern. Sometimes it works good, sometimes it either just dumps paint or it goes thin. Almost depends on the day or something ? Im going to send it back and get it fixed. Thanks to all who took the time to answer

Jon-you were on to something. I googled around and found a couple of sites that says that Badger has a lifetime replacement on the needle bearing. So, Ive contacted Badger to see what they think Thanks for pointing me in the right direction

Thanks for the replies guys. @ Jon-Do you think Badger would do anything? I dont have the receipt, even forgot where I bought it. It would be nice if they did something, but I feel it comes down to their word against mine, as to who is responcible @Trevor-I took the back of the body off. There is no play at all when I try to wiggle the holder, right at the body. And it certainly looks like it is centered. It operate very smoothly. It takes more effort to center the needle in the back, than I want to put on it. Any tips on checking straightness of the body?

I am kinda new to the air brush situation. I started out with a $35.00 Master dual action. And have been getting better results. So about a year ago, I bought a Badger 105 Patriot. And for some reason Ive struggled to get the same results as I have with the Master. One day when I pulled it apart, I noticed that the needle (blue) had a slight bend in it about 1 1/2"down from the tip. Thinking that this might have been the problem, I got a new needle. Looks straight when I got it, now has the same warp. So I put my silver needle in. (See picture) what ever needle I put in, it always slightly rubs at the top of the body. Is this normal? Is it possible the body of the 105 is machined wrong or its bent? Or is this a case of the 2 air brushes I have are different enough, that I need to just learn more about the Badger? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

The Green Stuff World paint comes in air brush and brush paint. I have only tried the brush on type, but have sprayed it. It can be brushed, but you have to lay it on kinda thick. But it self levels. The chrome finish is better being sprayed though. It takes several hours to dry but seems pretty durable , much better than the usual culprits. Its not exactly as good as Alclad or Spastic, but really close. And since you can handle it better, its a winner for me

I might be a little late to the party...But you could paint the center section/tail lights with lacquer paint (my personal favorite here is Green Stuff World Chrome metal). Let that good and dry. Then paint the area with acrylic red of your choice. And before its completely dry (let it set up a bit), with some water/acylic thinner, use a q tip and rub off the parts you want to be silver.

I also sand with some coarse sandpaper first, to give what ever I fill the sink mark with, some place to bite in

I dont have any experience with Abteilung, but I have been using Ammo Ultra liquid mask. I also lost a couple of brushes when I tried to paint it on. But I have been using a toothpick. I just push it up to where I need it. Clean the toothpick off every once and a while. Ive had pretty good success with this method. But my first efforts are always tape, then fill in hard places or really small places with the mask

I used to work in a high speed Rotogravure printing shop. Our main customer was M&M Mars. We printed M&M bags by the millions (literally). My name is slightly shortened, from a tool used to clean the printing cylinders, while it was running. It was called a drag stick. I needed a screen name when I got my first computer and somehow thats what came out. Kept it ever since

I just got hoods from Jason Lookabill. He told me is open to selling to anyone that wants his stuff. And it is top notch! Texas3D-his stuff has amazing detail and it comes off the supports. Amazing work. Both these guys were great at communication and quick shipping

Luke, Im so impressed with your ability to paint black so well. Do you rattle can the Tamiya paint or do you decant it and then air brush? Care to do a tutorial on your technique? Thanks

David and Graham Nash sang backup for David Gilmore recently

I ordered a 442 hood from him. It arrived in less than 2 weeks. Im happy with things. I wouldnt hesitate to order from him again