dragstk

@Jim Yes, I do make sure I change the nozzle when I change the needle. I do have all 3 sizes. I got all 3 thinking it might help me out.

I usually have 2 kits going. 1 long term project and then something closer to OOB. I go back and forth until 1 gets close to being finished, with 1 of them. Then I set the other aside, until something is finished.

Thanks Jim, I sent you a pm

So I just got my air brush back from Badger today. It was gone a month. I mailed it out 2/6. They received it 2/10. The $21.00 bench fee/shipping check cleared the bank on 2/14. Then radio silence I called them on 2/27. I was told they would start repairing it that week and they would give me a call on 3/3, to settle up if there was any costs. No call on 3/3 or 3/4. On 3/4, I get an e mail from Badger saying that a shipping label was printed. I checked the tracking several times and it showed no movement. Yet, it arrived today. They said they cleaned and serviced it. They installed a new needle bearing and a new plunger. No cost to me. But it came back the warped needle I sent it with, no new needle. And the needle still sits like in my original picture. I havent used it yet, but I really dont know what to think about all this.

Thats a tip that I have known for a while but for some reason, forget to do it. Thanks for the reminder. ?

That was brave of you to spray with a can that leaks. ?. You were right, you dont know where it could go. But you did a fine job. Congrats!

Thats a really nice build. Very clean!

Ive started a AMT 61 Chevy Impala long term project (Long for me anyway) Got the firewall fitted today. Its actually out of one of the older Monogram Pro Stock kits Thats a Texas 3D custom engine in front of it

I am in the non rolling camp. As said by Jeff, I dont need it rolling off the desk after so much work

I agree, you should ask for, actually demand a correction. But getting a model in a magazine is a great accomplishment. So congrats on that! And we, at the forum know who really built it

You weren't kidding when you said louver mania! And another very good build., as usual from you.

Barbadoes Rex recently did a video with a spray booth that uses a water fall to help vent fumes. That part doesnt apply here, but what he was venting into does. The exhaust of the spray booth was covered in some charcoal filter material and tightly inserted into the lid of a 5 gallon pail. And he had water in the bottom of the bucket. What I am talking about is about 6 mins in. I have never tried this, maybe it might work for you?

The best stuff Ive found to remove chrome is Scalecoat. I got it at a hobby train store. Its a little pricy but it does well at removing that coating under the chrome. Ive been using the same bottle for 3-4 yrs now https://www.hobby1.com/scalecoat-ii-wash-away-paint-remover.html

@Bob-Your reply answered one of my questions. Dry sanding it is. @Jason- I think Im going follow your path. I think Ill lay off trying to spray acrylics for bodies, or maybe I just get better...? @Mike-Ive heard that craft paint works well. And at some point I may try them. But until I get better at the air brush, I dont want to add another variable. Thank you to all who took the time to write. I appreciate it

@Dusty- Im trying to go to acrylics because of the chemicals in enamel and lacquer. I know Model color is not air brush ready and that has been my problem. But I thinned the paint 50% paint/25% Vallejo flow improver/25% Vallejo thinner. It sprayed pretty well. I wondered if the paint is just to soft to sand, maybe its just the nature of the beast? Hence the questions. I may get a dehydrator. And I may go to using enamel and lacquers for bodies, but being new to air brushing, I was curious and wanted to learn how to spray acrylics. As far a models go, I like stepping into areas I dont know and trying new things. Thank you for your thoughts @Hugh-Ive never heard of dry sanding acrylics. Ive had bad luck dry sanding enamels and lacquers. It just loads up the sand paper. But this is something Im going to try. Thanks for the tip.

Im pretty new to using an air brush. I think I have a handle on enamel and lacquer, but have struggled to spray Vallejo Model color. But I thought I had a handle on it and sprayed my first body. The paint went on pretty well, and other than a couple of small issues,I was happy. I then set it aside for a week. I wanted to deal with the small issues before clear coating. I wet sanded the body with 4000 grit. And right away, the paint felt soft. I went as light on pressure as I could but the paper actually cut/gouged into the paint. So my question(s) is- Did I not let it dry long enough? Is this how acrylic dries (really soft). Would a dehydrator help this? Any help here would be appreciated. Thanks for reading

You might check out a U tube channel called Kota Scale Models. He builds primarily bikes. He has a simple bike stand that I believe he made himself. Even if he didnt , it wouldn't be to hard to copy it

I tried a few of the colors, but I wasn't to impressed. It is quite thick. But for me in the tin itself. Its a pain to open and not bend the lip and once the channel the lid fits in gets paint in it, then they are harder to close. I don't think Ill be changing over to these any time soon

Thanks Luke for writing this up. This is something that is going to take some practice, but seeing your results, it is achievable. Thanks again for the lesson.

Nice job, Craig. Im about 1/2 way through the same kit and I agree with your take on it. I hope mine comes out as nice as yours

I will ask Badger to let me know what the issue is. I am curious myself

NICE, that is really nice! Very clean

@DPNM-I did wonder about that, but I dont know how to check it. And if it hadn't warped/bent 2 needles, I might have ignored it. @Dave G.-I cant seem to get a consistent spray pattern. Sometimes it works good, sometimes it either just dumps paint or it goes thin. Almost depends on the day or something ? Im going to send it back and get it fixed. Thanks to all who took the time to answer

Jon-you were on to something. I googled around and found a couple of sites that says that Badger has a lifetime replacement on the needle bearing. So, Ive contacted Badger to see what they think Thanks for pointing me in the right direction

Thanks for the replies guys. @ Jon-Do you think Badger would do anything? I dont have the receipt, even forgot where I bought it. It would be nice if they did something, but I feel it comes down to their word against mine, as to who is responcible @Trevor-I took the back of the body off. There is no play at all when I try to wiggle the holder, right at the body. And it certainly looks like it is centered. It operate very smoothly. It takes more effort to center the needle in the back, than I want to put on it. Any tips on checking straightness of the body?