dragstk

Nice job!! I really like these cars and you have done a great job representing them. I also built one of these, I enjoyed the build

I also saw that video. Like all chrome paints, how durable is it? Can it be clear coated? Yes, it looked good but $35.00 definitely puts it out of what Im willing to pay, for what you get.

Thanks Trevor. I completely agree with your assessment of the Badger. Maybe I am/was expecting to much from this air brush but I have seen videos of people doing good work with one. I could get rudimentary dots and fine lines out of the $35.00 Master AB i have. Thinking I could do better with a better AB, I bought on 105, on reputation. The thing that really bothered me about getting back my AB from Badger was that I got back the bent needle I sent it with. Its not that I didnt want to buy another one, I fully expected to. But my note explaining the issue was all about bending 2 needles. And it wasnt replaced? I find it hard to believe that it was within their tolerance. Oh well. Like you, this will be my primer AB. Thank you for your thoughts

Well, I did spray today. If I was using it for full coverage, like with primer, it did spray well. But it still has a light switch trigger. Its either full bore or nothing. No amount of changing air pressure or changing the tension on the trigger made a difference. There is no way I can spray small dots or fine lines. Imjust going to use this for primer or painting chassis. Im kinda frustrated with this brush and the service I got at Badger. While my Badger was out getting serviced, I bought a Creos PS-289. The 2nd time using it, just practicing, I could spray fine lines. They are ugly, but thats just I need practice. So I think I have an idea of the "feel" needed. But I cant make the Badger do it. Thank you to all of you that took time to write and offer suggestions

That is a really nice build. Really clean. You should be proud!

No, your question was not silly. If you dont know something, you have to ask. One thing I have noticed since I have gotten the air brush back, is there is a slight catch as I start to pull back for paint. I didnt notice this before but maybe Im noticing it now because Im focused on it. The catch was clearly coming from the trigger against the the curved piece behind the trigger. I lightly sanded each piece with 1500, the a drop of Badger lube. and it works really smoothly now I hope to have some spray time this week, to see if anything has changed

Thats a really nice build. I just picked up this kit, and now seeing yours, Im inspired to get going on it.

Thats a nice build. Very clean. I like it. Good job!

Yes, I did check the new needle before I installed it. My check of the needle straightness was to roll the needle across my desk. If I didnt see any wobble, then I assumed it was straight enough

@Jim Yes, I do make sure I change the nozzle when I change the needle. I do have all 3 sizes. I got all 3 thinking it might help me out.

I usually have 2 kits going. 1 long term project and then something closer to OOB. I go back and forth until 1 gets close to being finished, with 1 of them. Then I set the other aside, until something is finished.

Thanks Jim, I sent you a pm

So I just got my air brush back from Badger today. It was gone a month. I mailed it out 2/6. They received it 2/10. The $21.00 bench fee/shipping check cleared the bank on 2/14. Then radio silence I called them on 2/27. I was told they would start repairing it that week and they would give me a call on 3/3, to settle up if there was any costs. No call on 3/3 or 3/4. On 3/4, I get an e mail from Badger saying that a shipping label was printed. I checked the tracking several times and it showed no movement. Yet, it arrived today. They said they cleaned and serviced it. They installed a new needle bearing and a new plunger. No cost to me. But it came back the warped needle I sent it with, no new needle. And the needle still sits like in my original picture. I havent used it yet, but I really dont know what to think about all this.

Thats a tip that I have known for a while but for some reason, forget to do it. Thanks for the reminder. ?

That was brave of you to spray with a can that leaks. ?. You were right, you dont know where it could go. But you did a fine job. Congrats!

Thats a really nice build. Very clean!

Ive started a AMT 61 Chevy Impala long term project (Long for me anyway) Got the firewall fitted today. Its actually out of one of the older Monogram Pro Stock kits Thats a Texas 3D custom engine in front of it

I am in the non rolling camp. As said by Jeff, I dont need it rolling off the desk after so much work

I agree, you should ask for, actually demand a correction. But getting a model in a magazine is a great accomplishment. So congrats on that! And we, at the forum know who really built it

You weren't kidding when you said louver mania! And another very good build., as usual from you.

Barbadoes Rex recently did a video with a spray booth that uses a water fall to help vent fumes. That part doesnt apply here, but what he was venting into does. The exhaust of the spray booth was covered in some charcoal filter material and tightly inserted into the lid of a 5 gallon pail. And he had water in the bottom of the bucket. What I am talking about is about 6 mins in. I have never tried this, maybe it might work for you?

The best stuff Ive found to remove chrome is Scalecoat. I got it at a hobby train store. Its a little pricy but it does well at removing that coating under the chrome. Ive been using the same bottle for 3-4 yrs now https://www.hobby1.com/scalecoat-ii-wash-away-paint-remover.html

@Bob-Your reply answered one of my questions. Dry sanding it is. @Jason- I think Im going follow your path. I think Ill lay off trying to spray acrylics for bodies, or maybe I just get better...? @Mike-Ive heard that craft paint works well. And at some point I may try them. But until I get better at the air brush, I dont want to add another variable. Thank you to all who took the time to write. I appreciate it

@Dusty- Im trying to go to acrylics because of the chemicals in enamel and lacquer. I know Model color is not air brush ready and that has been my problem. But I thinned the paint 50% paint/25% Vallejo flow improver/25% Vallejo thinner. It sprayed pretty well. I wondered if the paint is just to soft to sand, maybe its just the nature of the beast? Hence the questions. I may get a dehydrator. And I may go to using enamel and lacquers for bodies, but being new to air brushing, I was curious and wanted to learn how to spray acrylics. As far a models go, I like stepping into areas I dont know and trying new things. Thank you for your thoughts @Hugh-Ive never heard of dry sanding acrylics. Ive had bad luck dry sanding enamels and lacquers. It just loads up the sand paper. But this is something Im going to try. Thanks for the tip.

Im pretty new to using an air brush. I think I have a handle on enamel and lacquer, but have struggled to spray Vallejo Model color. But I thought I had a handle on it and sprayed my first body. The paint went on pretty well, and other than a couple of small issues,I was happy. I then set it aside for a week. I wanted to deal with the small issues before clear coating. I wet sanded the body with 4000 grit. And right away, the paint felt soft. I went as light on pressure as I could but the paper actually cut/gouged into the paint. So my question(s) is- Did I not let it dry long enough? Is this how acrylic dries (really soft). Would a dehydrator help this? Any help here would be appreciated. Thanks for reading