BigTallDad

It might have a use for masking of really difficult areas "Goes on thick and peels off fairly easy" but, at that price???

I'm tired of seeing the "Alternate ways" so I thought I'd add a little (probably very little) spot of humor..."Running out of Patience" sounds like a Doctor's nightmare of "Running out of Patients"

Not at $21.99 per can!

Exceptionally crisp details and stellar paint job. I especially like the ornament just in front of the hood...looks exactly like the real thing.

Get some aluminum angle-iron and cut two pieces slightly wider than the jaws of the vics; using contact cement, glue some cork to one outer face on each piece. Open the vise, set the uncorked face on the top of the vise with the corked faces on the inside of the jaws, and tighten the vise. Attaching them to the vise is optional; just set them in place and clamp the part. That way, you have the ability to use the original vise jaws or the cork-padded ones.

Exactly! Another approach is flipping the blade so it cuts in the "wrong" direction and results in a less aggressive cut.

I suspect the seller has a shill (or another fake ID) that posted the offer.

Very nice color choice. Is it me or is the front hood emblem upside down?

Have you tried here? http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/

Your weathering is outstanding...but the shiny wheels don't seem to fit in BTW, does 259 East Jennings still exist? My parents lived there until we moved to Bethalto in the 4th grade, about 60 years ago.

I looked in Hobby Lobby's online catalog (did you check there too?)...Out Of Stock , but they'll send you an email when/if they get more.

I've never used zinc came, only the lead.

Very well done! You said you got the custom license plate from Best Model Car Parts; this site allows you to make your own: https://www.acme.com/licensemaker/

Very well executed, and the aftermarket add-ons make it more realistic. When you were wiring the plugs, did you notice the firing order (in raised numbers) on the exhaust manifold? My very first car was one of these in grey. The previous owner had added an aftermarket vertical bar in the center of the grille to make it look like a '48.

If your pin vise has a shank, put that rascal in a garden variety Variable Speed Drill and carefully drill away. An important tip: don't have too much of the drill bit exposed...that leads to breakage

Have you looked here? http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/

Sorry, I've never seen a gasser with a full interior. Anything that was not essential (including a horn) was removed for weight savings. The work on the interior is awesome, but not accurate.

You've done a stellar job on this model! Everything is crisp and well executed. I was 13 years old (yep, cars and girls, not necessarily in that order) when the '56 Chebbies were introduced, went to my first "drag strip" in '58. Your model, as excellent as it is, isn't what I saw in Gassers back then. I won't elaborate, unless you ask me to. Great work.

That would work very well if the emblem being duplicated is located on a curved area (top of fender, hood emblem, etc.) of the model. The clay would allow you to pour multiple times, tilting the clay with each pour. By doing so, you don't have a massive amount of cured epoxy to sand off because the mold was so deep.

I get an automatic 15% discount at Michael's because I'm a military vet.

Yes. I built an SVO that had a very good rear emblem, but the front was very faint. By copying the rear emblem via the method described, I was able to create a new front emblem (obviously the old emblem was sanded off). Just remember to place the shiny side of the foil on the outside.

How old is your epoxy? That stuff does have a shelf life. Here's how I do it: Make the aluminum foil at least twice the size of the emblem I use a soft eraser to press the foil into those tiny crevices Carefully remove the foil I mix the epoxy 1:1 then over-fill, to get a slight meniscus dome After the epoxy has cured, I sand the back side and trim the edges of the foil

A couple of pictures would be helpful.

Or you could get one of these at Harbor Freight. I have one permanently mounted on my router table, and it works well. It has a three-way switch: center is off; left is variable, right is full speed. Another nice thing is there is no wiring skills required. Plug the unit into a standard outlet, then plug the tool into the unit. Even I can handle that!

If you use a dimmer switch, you run the risk of burning out the saw motor because of the initial low voltage (and high current needs of the motor) when the switch is turned on and left at a low setting...that's why brown-outs are hazardous to electrical appliances. It would be better to use a speed control for a ceiling fan, which functions opposite of a dimmer control (when activated, the control starts at max speed, then you slow it down).