Dann Tier

Thanks, bud!!....it was pretty fun, even though i had to fix everything, lol

Thanks again, bud!!...i'm glad this one is finally done!

Thanks, bud!!, i thought so too!

Getting excited to see this one all buttoned-up!!!, EXCELLENT attention to details!!!!

That stance is looking Fantastic!!!!....

I love this car/kit!!, and i love the kolor choices you made!....looking forward to more!!!

A Masterpiece in the making!!!

KILLER kolor!!!!!....i always use canned air to blast possible debris off my parts....between EVERY coat.

BRILLIANT!!!.....man am i getting excited to see this in paint!!!!

Cant wait to see your "weathering" on this one!!!!

Love EVERYTHING about this build!!!!!

OUTSTANDING!!!

A VERY klean...Beautiful job!!!

Wow!!, very cool!!, this is actually the first one i've ever seen built!.....thanks for sharing!!!

Thanks, bud!!, i'm very glad to help!

Thanks, bud!!....lol

Thats right, bud...rockers separate.

BEAUTIFUL!!!!!, i too would rather mask and paint stripes..

Thanks, bud!!

Thanks!, i've learned ALOT from the first one!

I love Fujimi kits, dont get me wrong, but i wont pretend that their the best either....lol

Thanks alot, bud!....no problem.....i like helping with difficult tricks, and i've built this bugger before.

Hey, everyone!....update time!! -Photo 1; Here i had to cut the front tip off the interior tub part, and attach it to the front fascia as you see, in order to make a one-piece body. -Photo 2; I'm not sure how many people know this about this kit, but the back edge of the interior tub part is meant to tuck-in under the rear fascia's lip like shown. Its better to attach the rear fascia now, to make a stronger bond, and to avoid a messed up paint finish when trying to attach it later as a separate piece. -Photo 3; This shows the triangular bits that needed to be removed from the interior tub part, and attached where it belonged -to the bodies side vents. -Photo 4; I just need to blend the vents in with super glue now... -Photo 5; Make sure to leave a bit of clearance at the base of the A-pillars, so that they wont keep the body from seating properly. -Photo 6; The first step to making sure that the hood fits easily after painting, is to open these holes a bit... -Photo 7; ...next, get rid of the horrible ejection pin marks in this area... -Photo 8; ...widen these notches a bit... -Photo 9; ...sand all the edges of the hood in order to make the hinges very thin....if you are careful, they will be stronger than you expect. -Photo 11; Here you can see how loose i sanded the parts to compensate for paint thickness....all these parts will be EASILY removable. -Photo 12; Time to remove the molded-in side markers. -Photo 13; I removed the lip on the top of the rockers...they make final assembly a nightmare, and often ends up with exposed glue, and chipped paint...they were a stupid idea. The best contact for these parts, is actually the ridge on the belly of the interior tub. -Photo 14 & 15; Its now time to start lowering the ride height. I chopped the shocks shorter at the bottom contacts, then using the holes for the control arms, i rotated them up to the ride height i wanted, then glued them into place. Next step will be SB new lower contacts for the shocks. -Photo 16; Onto lowering the front suspension...i start by cutting off the molded-in spindles, and now, i will SB new ones at the ride height i want. -Photo 17; To deal with the LOUSY fit of the front suspension bits, i pre-assembled most of it....and now in order to get the struts in there, i have to make the holes bigger...then cap them off after instillation. -Photo 18; Since i decided to SB a smooth belly pan, i needed to remove the kits version that i had already attached....no worries, just a bit of klean up.

Looking GREAT, bud!!!

LOOKING AWESOME, BUD!!!!!!