showrods

I have exactly the same kit on the go. It's a pretty nice kit fit wise. Too bad that they did not provide the 426 Hemi as the engine though. The interior uni-piece looks as if it's going to be hard to mask. I'm still struggling with fitting the floor piece to the body and finding those glue contact points as well as fitting the glass piece in - is it better to cut it in two?

Tremendous work and absolutely terrific interior detailing!

Yes, but in addition to that Raoul seems to be saying that there are some (disputed?) 1970 Daytonas... For my money, anything claiming to be a 1970 Daytona is probably a stock 1970 Charger with 1969 post delivery add ons - someone may have gotten a hold of the 1969 Daytona nose cone and spoiler and slapped it on to a stock 1970 Charger and viola you have a "1970 Daytona Charger".

Functioning?? Judging by the work on the motor you might be able to drive it when you're finished. Great work!

I'm a bit confused here - I thought that the Daytona was a one year only car (1969). If that's the case how are there 1970 models? I have read as you posted earlier that 1969 500s and Daytonas did NOT have a vinyl top as an option. Perhaps 1969s with vinyl tops are the result of post delivery modifications? Record keeping for the 1969 Daytonas is not apparently very good. There appears to be no consensus as to how many were even made and in what configurations.

I bought a set from Keith Marks along with the ones for the Daytona Charger. These decals have all of the stuff that's missing (cartoon roadrunner etc) compared to the ones included with the kit . They look good but I can't vouch for how they go on as I haven't reached that stage of the build.

Great start. I have this same kit on the go (just finishing up the clean up so no paint yet but it will also be in oranges. I don't know about the rest of the original factory colours, but take note of the fact that there were different oranges on the body; engine block (although this kit is a 440 and not a 426v Hemi); the spoiler; and the front nose pieces. Take a look at this link - it'll blow your mind (along with most wallets) http://www.hotrod.com/cars/featured/1512-amazing-1970-plymouth-superbird-sets-new-benchmark-for-authentic-original-restoration/

As a follow up question - I see how you're painting the body but how do you go about painting the hood and the trunk pieces? They both have to be painted top and bottom so one would have to clamp each piece somehow to paint it. How is that done? Thanks!

All possibilities. One would think though that they'd want the racing cars to be relatively similar body wise to the ones on the dealer's lots - racing success to translate into, among other things, street car sale success. The absence of the "split window" was a significant difference - racing vs production model...

Out of curiosity, why weren't the Grand Sport versions split windows as were the '63 production coupes?

I read one guy's comment that he takes a folded piece of 600 grit sand paper to clean up the scribe lines. Is that something that others do? Is it even possible to smooth out such a narrow space without doing damage? I imagine after a line is scribed though that the crevices could be pretty jagged...

Thanks for posting that tutorial. I had read it before and as I recall, then as now, there appears to to be at least 2 different schools as to when in the process to do the panel lines. One says late in the process, the other says early. I know that Tamiya wants you to put it on after the primer coat but not on bare plastic as their panel line highlighter is enamel and will quite possibly damage bare plastic. The acrylic Vallejo wash I hope will not damage bare plastic.

I want to highlight scribed panel lines. I was unable to find any Tamiya Panel Line Accent locally so I decided to buy the Vallejo acrylic wash instead. The questions that I have are: 1. Can I apply the Vallejo acrylic wash to bare plastic scribed panel lines or is it preferable to apply it at another stage in the painting process? 2. If I do apply it to bare plastic, will there be anything visible after spraying on the primer and the paint? 3. If anyone else has used this as a panel highlighter, did you need to thin it? 4. On the topic of panel lines, what's the call on whether the panel lines need to be scribed or not? The kit in question is a Monogram 1970 Plymouth Superbird. The panel lines seem reasonable deep to this uninformed person but... My thoughts are that if I apply it at the bare plastic stage, then there's no other paint to muck up and clean up would be easiest in that I'd just have to clean any excess off of bare plastic. If it matters at all the planned painting sequence and colours are, unless I'm told differently: Vallejo Dark Brown wash in the panel lines; Tamiya grey primer; some Tamiya white primer; Testor's Go Mango. Thanks in advance for any advice.

It would look good in red, aqua or pearl white...

I suggest a product called Scalecoat II. I've used it many times in the past and it does a great job of stripping paint. It won't harm the plastic like some other products. It should be available at your local hobby shop as it's a favourite amongst the model train folks.

LOL yeah - that's it. Thanks! Peter (I can't tell a spare tire from a spark plug)

The filter that I'm looking at looks as if it's some sort of army green. It looks very close to the colour of filters used on the assembly line builds of 426 Hemi Superbirds. I'm doing up the Monogram Superbird and that's the colour that I want to use. By "regular white" Tamiya, do you mean gloss? Thanks.

Great build! A few questions if I may: 1. What colour and paint were used for the engine block? 2. Same question for the oil filter. 3. How did you do the windshield washer reservoir? It looks absolutely real.

You should move this to the Tips, Tricks and Tutorials forum...

From one guy in Ottawa to another guy in Ottawa - terrific work!

What brand and colour name is the paint on the engine block? Looks good.

Nasty! Nasty! NASTY!!! Terrific is what I really mean. LOL

I've had Scalecoat not work as it should the odd time and I think that's because the contents weren't fresh. Get a fresh bottle and it works very well. It's the only product I use now after trying brake fluid etc Some paints and pigments it will ripple immediately - other paints and pigments may take a bit longer and require a scrub with an old tooth brush to help things along. Tamiya paints will come off in seconds. Old Testors paint will ripple quickly too. I find the surface being stripped affects the stripping time. Flat surfaces can be far easier to strip than say a figure kit with all kinds of creases and indents.

Contrary to what some have said DON'T buy anything cheap. You get what you pay for. Sooner rather than later it'll break down or not work properly and you'll just get frustrated with the botched paint jobs, wasted time and wasted materials. I recommend an Iwata HP-C Plus, Iwata I900 compressor and Iwata water trap. Someone above said that it's important to know how to take apart, clean and put back together the air brush BEFORE you shoot any paint. He's absolutely right. There's a great you-Tube video of a guy from Iwata taking apart, cleaning and putting back together this exact airbrush.

You should go try your original colour scheme again - stunning!