showrods

This WIP has so far been epic. Something tells me that the final build is going to be legendary.

Nice job! In case you didn't know, there's another half to this kit. It's a fawn and branch piece. This base fits right into the Cougar base.

Vermillion red! My guess would have been Coco Metallic ? Great photo BTW and to think that that car new probably cost a third of the price of the house!! You can tell it's a new house alright - no trees, plants, flowers or grass to be seen ? Seems as if you're off to a great start. Can't wait to see it finished.

YESSSSSSS. Have been waiting for the Henry J to come back for a squillion years. I butchered it as a teenager. This time...I'll probably butcher it again...BUT it will be with knowledge that I didn't have when I was 12 ?

There are some hobby paint brands that can take a little while longer to strip off than others, that's true. You sometimes have to get in there with an old tooth brush to help things along. I've also found that, believe it or not, some pigments are more stubborn than others while still others will begin to blister and peel almost immediately.

Doesn't sound as if it's an effective paint stripper if you have to soak parts in it "for weeks at a time.".

I've never used it on resin. Thanks for bringing it up.

Goodwrench3 and any one else out there trying to strip paint off of old model kits: From my experience using some of the stuff recommended in this thread - DON"T. They're not meant to strip paint off of models. I tried brake fluid years ago - it didn't work and it's apparently not working for you. Some of the other stuff - who knows what it's going to do to the plastic! From my years of experience stripping kits, a product called Scalecoat will strip just about any model paint off of a kit WITHOUT damaging the plastic. Why? Because it's made SPECIFICALLY for stripping model paint. It works. No - it's not $1.98 at Walmart. Scalecoat is not cheap but it works! It's all I use. You get what you pay for. If you do things on the cheap chances are that you'll get an inferior result. If you use products that are not made specifically for stripping model paint expect that the plastic is going to get damaged.

Go with your gut - go with the Iwata. I have an Iwata C Plus airbrush and an Iwata compressor. I love both. Iwata, as I'm sure you know makes a number of different airbrushes for a number of different applications. Just make sure that the Neo is the one that you need and that your compressor will deliver the required PSI for the paints that you plan on using. Regardless, Iwata makes very high quality products and you won't go wrong buying high quality. Don't cheap out - you get what you pay for.

My brand new one didn't work at all. I tried everything and got zilch out of it. I thought that it was dry. I ended up taking it apart and rolling the felt thing or what ever it is that's in the middle of the pen and lo and behold that was enough to get it started.

I can't say what it will do to resin or urethane resin because I've never used it on that material, however, I can, from vast experience, say that it works very well on styrene plastic.

Why take a chance? Have you used Humbrol thinner with Humbrol paint on the new plastics?

Scalecoat

Forgot to say that you did a great job on this kit...

My father, as a teenager/young man, flew in Lancasters during WWII. He was one of the few to make it out alive. I had the privilege of getting in one of the remaining still flying Lancasters when it landed in Ottawa a few years ago and after seeing the insides, I don't know how any of the crew survived. Cramped; thin skinned; no insulation; interior noise must have been incredible; attack from enemy aircraft; flak; bad weather; etc - brave boys/men all.

You opted not to put on the helmet stickers?

Great detective work - love it!

Received...thanks Bob!

So Bob - when you say "unpainted plastic" did you paint the teeth directly on unprimed plastic or were the teeth primered and then painted with the Raw Umber wash?

Thanks for the reply Bob. I second the poster above's comments regarding your job on the teeth - well done. What paints and techniques did you use on those? I'm looking for techniques to use when I get this kit myself. It hasn't arrived yet in Canada yet - at least not in my neck the woods.

Great job Bob! A few questions if I may: 1. What brand of paint did you use? 2. What paint colours did you use? 3. How well were the parts chromed? 4. Do the stickers adhere well to the chrome? Do they stay stuck? 5. Do you have to do anything special to the chrome to make the stickers stick? Peter

Yes you can. That's why you decant in the first place - because you want to run it through an airbrush. You should decant only as much paint as you're planning to immediately use and no more. The stuff evaporates even if it is in a "sealed" jar. I'd decant in a glass bottle. The contents come out COLD from the can and I'm not sure if that might crack some plastic containers. There are a few excellent videos on Youtube on how to decant paint. Have a look at them if you haven't already. Good luck!

Thanks Colby.

Great job. I'm not familiar with this kit - I assume that the paint on the wood trim is the Model Master Wood but what colour are the "wood" panels or are they stickers/decals? Tx!

Jerry - the correct body colour paint name was Vitamin C Orange - the Dodge equivalent was Go Mango which Testors Model Master makes. The Hemi Orange colour was used on certain engine blocks. Not sure about the other colours but for Super Birds whose bodies were painted the Vitamin C colour, the front end and the spoiler were painted a slightly different shade of orange - something to do, I think, with the different materials used.