Bucky

I got as far as a Vauxhall Viva. Ran out of time to keep searching. LoL

Entertaining, yet educational! I learn new morsels of modeling technique with each one of Steve's builds.

How about a tutorial for us guys who routinely mess up the stretching of the sprue!! LOL

Nice scratching, bro!!

I did reply to the other thread......after it was posted in this thread.

There is a matte black BMF on the market that might possibly work, although I don't know how it would do when the part gets bent into shape. I haven't tried it. It might be best to bend the part first, then apply the black BMF.

Wow! I kinda like the taillights the way they were when ya got it! LoL

I liked his role as Phil Cantone in "Harlem Nights". RIP Danny.

As a last resort, you might could source some induction tubing from a NASCAR kit. I'm not sure about the difference in size. Also, I'm not sure that they could be reconfigured to work with the W-30 setup.

Super cool MOPAR!!

That is a classy looking bunch of fender wells!

The first time I used BMF was on an AMT '63 Ford Galaxy. A good bit of BMF went on that one. I had no problems with the application, other than it taking a while! One thing I did discover is that BMF will show you how smooth your paint job really is! It's almost like a magnifying glass!!

Sweet little Fairlane! That's a great color!

Nothing at all wrong with putting on decals before the clear coat. I have done that many times, as well as doing Bare Metal Foil before clear coat.

Fantastic Chevrolet! Top Shelf work all the way around!! Very nice paint work!

It might take more work, but since the early Mustang was based on the Ford Falcon, you may be able to use one of those as a last resort.

Welcome, Blake! One thing I would suggest is to NOT get in a rush to finish a project. Also, if you run into a frustration, step away from the workbench for a bit. Decals can be finicky, especially depending on how old the kit, or decal sheet is. Some builders will shoot a coat of clear on the decal sheet prior to cutting them out and dunking them in water. When I do my decals, I start out with lukewarm water, and place a drop or two of dishwashing liquid in the water. I've had past experience with decals immediately sticking on a model, never to be moved, again! With the tiny bit of soap in the water, you will have more time to slide it into place, or straighten one like a custom side stripe before it sets. I always prefer waterslide decals to dry transfer, or the peel-and-stick variety. And, to me, primer is a must! Have fun, and post your progress!!

Fantastic paint work going on! Great color combination on the outside, as well as the interior!

You brought in a ringer, this time!!! HAHAHA

Thanks! Happy to report that I'm still kicking, these 43 years later! LoL If I had been in a Pinto.............

This post is not exactly Pinto related, but it does pertain to a ruptured gas tank. In 1976, I suffered a head-on crash while driving my 1975 Dodge Coronet 2dr hardtop. I was hit by a 1972 Cadillac Coupe de Ville. He hit my car so hard that all the running gear went backwards and split the gas tank, spilling all 25 gallons of gas I had pumped into it, not long before the crash. Very fortunate that there were no sparks, as I was trapped in the driver's seat until the jaws of life got there.

Mine makes a noise like a whoopee cushion when I sit on it!!

Glad to help out a fellow modeler!!

This one came to me via the "Pay-It-Forward" thread found elsewhere on this forum: Thanks go out to Chasracer for this one! The following kit is from eBay: I'll use it to kit bash the '69 Impala I have that's missing the undersides parts! That is, if I don't go ahead and grab an AMT '70 Impala kit.

They had some uncommon subjects, but their molding process left a lot to be desired, engineering-wize. I have a 1966 Dodge Polara kit that I have yet to peel the plastic off of. I keep thinking that I'll be disappointed when I do.