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Anglia105E

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Everything posted by Anglia105E

  1. The door is perfect and is the photo of the filing cabinet with the calendar on the wall, inside the diorama or is that 1:1 ? ( I'm not sure ). David
  2. Very nice build you have there George..... and excellent work with the Molotow Liquid Chrome pen too. I am liking these pens, and tend to use it more than Bare Metal Foil these days, except for larger areas of chrome. Your colour combination of two-tone green works really well and I would say is right for 1940's and 1950's David
  3. Really like the work you've done on the doorway and the window, and this diorama has a nice feel to it now. All good Joe ! David
  4. Thanks Joe, and here is the latest addition which is a Tamiya Morgan 4/4 sports car. This will be finished in Ferrari Giallo Modena Yellow, applied over Halfords white primer. David
  5. Interesting to hear that you remember Plimley Motors Richard, and I did a great deal of research into the whole area and history of Victoria BC because I was building a 1:24 scale Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud that belonged to a lady called Margaret L Sayward-Wilson, who you may know was the daughter of Joseph Sayward one of the founders of the Royal Colwood Golf Club. During my research I traced the detailed history of the original car that was delivered to Canada in 1958 and the lady ordered the car from England to be painted in Velvet Green, which appears to be black at first sight but reveals dark green in bright sunlight. I received copies of letters sent from Rolls-Royce dealers in Vancouver and Montreal to Mrs Sayward-Wilson regarding the maintenance of the car. It was all very useful information, although I never did locate a photograph of the car, or indeed determine the registration number while the car was in BC. Here is a photo of my completed build. David
  6. Right Christian, must get a Sherman tank on the streets! Embassy reg of course. Oh I see now.... you don't mean a TANK.... you mean a large car. David
  7. Wise words indeed Richard Bartrop...... and it's funny that you should mention a Canadian diorama, because I have an idea lurking at the back of my mind that would involve Victoria, British Columbia and the old Rolls-Royce dealership that was there. Plimley Motors Limited I believe ( also in Vancouver ). Now that would be an interesting diorama for sure..... David
  8. You are probably right Snake.... by restricting myself to 1950's, London, Rolls-Royce and Bentley, this immediately rules out a lot of cars that I cannot have in the scene. Is that what you mean? One day I need to build a second diorama that would not be so restrictive. David
  9. Thanks to Michael in South Carolina, and always good to hear from someone who knows their subject. I also like the Citroen C4 Fourgonette delivery van and so far I haven't built one because it wouldn't have been a vehicle that you would expect to see on London streets in 1958. There are lots of model cars that I would very much like to build, but they have no place in my period diorama, such as the 1950's American cars, which really appeal to me. The purpose of the diorama is to display the models, rather than put them on a shelf or in display cases. Heller do seem to provide us with a choice of cars that seem to have been largely ignored by other kit manufacturers. David
  10. That is an impressive catalog but what are Heller kits like to build? Compared to say Revell, Tamiya and Emhar for example, what sort of quality can be expected from these French kits, and do they stand up well in terms of accuracy and instruction sheet design? The reason I ask is that having built many of the leading manufacturers models in 1:24 scale, so far I haven't built a single Heller kit. I do like the look of the Hispano Suiza and the Talbot Largo especially. David
  11. To see the daylight bouncing off that purple roof..... more than a work of art.... it's poetry! Wish I could get close to that glass finish with my paintwork. David
  12. Enjoyed watching your video build diary and this is interesting because it's an Airfix 1:16 kit of the AC Cobra. Several parts of the build stood out for me, the walnut dash and instruments, the fabric of the seating and the engine..... transformed from glue bomb to intricate perfection in detail. Excellent job Mark ! David
  13. When I said ' overdue ' the weathering effects, I did of course mean ' overdo ' David
  14. Now it's looking like a real workshop..... just a bit dirty. David
  15. Really nice build Michi, and you must feel proud of the work you put in over one year. Don't worry about the sunroof, it is not unusual for Revell to get the instruction sheet slightly wrong. When I built the 1:24 Revell London Bus there were warnings on different forums about some instructions that were wrong way round. Good job ! David
  16. Continuing to experiment with the lighting source around the diorama area. Here are a few shots of recent developments. You can see a ladder leaning against the street lamp which is there for the lamplighter who will light the gas lamps in due course. The Morris Minor Traveller is at the mock-up stage for the chassis and body shell alignment, seen here photographed alongside one of the Rolls-Royce Silver Clouds. The British Racing Green paintwork is awaiting polishing with Meguiars Carnauba Wax David
  17. The broom is so real looking and the outside surface of the trash can is spot on. It would be so easy to overdue the weathering effects, but you've pitched it to perfection. David
  18. Hope you don't mind me chipping in at this point, and I am by no means an expert, but I deal with Steve at Hiroboy / Zero Paints in this country and generally have not run into any problems. Like you Joe, I apply two coats of light grey primer which is Zero airbrushed, then three coats of colour which is also Zero airbrushed, and then wait 24 hours and apply Clearcoat Lacquer, also Zero airbrushed. All I am suggesting is that you could use Zero Paints airbrushed Clearcoat Lacquer as an alternative to Tamiya TS-13 rattle can. Just recently I am now experimenting with Halfords grey primer rattle can, and also I have used successfully some decanted cellulose Rolls-Royce paint on a resin bodied scale model car. The Zero Paints airbrushed colour is going on over the Halfords grey primer, and one last comment from me..... I have successfully chosen not to apply clearcoat of any kind and instead polished the body shell with Meguiars carnauba wax polish, applied with microfibre cloth and finished off with yellow duster. Produced a high gloss shine this way, and no clearcoat used. David
  19. Very professional looking this build...... that shade of blue is the new red ! You must be really pleased with the result. David
  20. That floor surface works Joe, and even at the mock-up stage you can see where this is going. Good job! David
  21. Welcome Tim, and I think you'll find building scale model motor cars more interesting than building aircraft, ships or military stuff, although to be fair ... each to their own in this free world. David
  22. Most impressive Mike, and all the more so because you are working in N-scale. How on earth do you get all that detail into something that small ? My diorama is 1:24 scale and I dare not go any smaller ! You will be creating a project within an area that is 12" by 12" square, whereas I have an area to work within that is 36" by 31", so I take my hat off to you Mike. I did consider building a 1:43 scale diorama, mainly because the choice of 1950's diecast model motor cars was greater than 1:24 offers, but N-scale !!! David
  23. Thanks for the comment Pat, and this is exactly what I am going to try to achieve. Each composition of the cars , the figures, the interior or exterior of the building, combined with the lighting, the camera angles and as you say, what is actually going on in the scene needs to allow the viewer to use their imagination and sort of believe that it's real. David
  24. Thank you Peter...... I hope to produce some highly realistic photographs now that I have almost all I need to work with. Watch this space! David
  25. Liking the coffee pot Joe, and nice shine on the surface of the desk. I can quite understand how it would take one week of work to produce this desk and chair, with all it's accessories. It's not just a simple matter of placing items from a Fujimi kit on the desk... there is more to it than that. The secret to a successful diorama is in the detail, absolutely. When you look at your own photos you can immediately see if something has worked or not. David
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