R. Thorne

Got stalled on this one. Had some paint issues on the other WIP (69 Camaro). Yes, I work on at least 2 builds at once. Anyway, after some reaming with an 1/8” drill bit and some spare tires because the center hub protrudes beyond the tire face, I glued on the front tires. Really like the cheapo drill chucks instead of changing drill bits all the time.

Just a couple of pics that might help and one of the things on the side of the car that I have removed. Of course, Ace is correct about the generator.

This came about when I noticed how much better I could see details and small pieces when viewing those things on a light background. Heretofore, I had used cutting mats of different colors with varying success usually ending up with magnifying glasses with additional lighting. I initially noticed this when wetting down white paper towels in the spray booth. I could make out details of the paint job better. Anyway, trying it on my work bench about 6 months ago has allowed me to work without any assistance from glasses, just decent lighting. First I used paper towels, then plain white sheet paper. About a month ago, I purchased some 12”x18”x1/2” cutting blocks. Easier to clean up and less trash to throw away. If I need to do some cutting or drilling, I pull out a small cutting mat or piece of 2”x4”. I also use a piece of glass with white paper under it.

My sister had one of the first 1964.5 Mustangs in our area. Boy, everybody stopped what they were doing to gawk at that car. It is on my list to build and I am using this kit.

After the first respray, upon checking after 2 hours, noticed I had light coverage on 1 spot, so, i sprayed another reasonably heavy coat all over. Checked it a couple hours later, Looked much better and I am satisfied. By the way, this is still the original spray can.

Thanks. Finished with some 1000 and 2500 grit Dspiae pads. Sprayed whole car again today in these weather conditions. Took some pics right after spraying. We will see what it looks like in a few hours.

Another day, another paint job, on the same car (or so it seems). Some builds just fight you more than others. I ain’t quitting. Top of car turned out fine, but experienced runs on sides of car. Sanding down sides, mask off top, then another respray.

Thanks, Trevor. Your acknowledgments are always much appreciated. I will keep plugging along and finish this thing soon (famous last words).

Thank you.

Gotta ask. Is that a kit carb? If so, what kit? Didn’t find any aftermarket 2 barrel carbs.

Next phase was some primer, then 1200 and 4000 polishing to remove 2 nubs. Then more primer which turned out really smooth and shiny because of the 4000 polishing sanding stick. Weather conditions when final primer was applied.

The paint job saga continues. After soaking in 91% iso for 5 or 6 days (with a couple of tooth brush scrubs in between, virtually no progress in removing the Tamiya paint. Next phase was elo paint remover with some success. The last effort with Mr. Color leveling thinner scrubbed on with a paper towel did the job.

Thanks. Finally got around (sidetracked by another build and lack of motivation) to rigging up some thinner backing plates. Glued them together, then glued them on to the rear end using some 123 weights and some old tires for alignment.

Thanks. Finally got around (sidetracked by another build and lack of motivation) to rigging up some thinner backing plates. Glued them together, then glued them on to the rear end using some 123 weights and some old tires for alignment.

I assume the 4 barrel version would be an afb carb. If so, aftermarket resin carbs are available that are more realistic than most of the “blob” carbs included in most kits. Something like this.

Broke down and purchased the amt #977 Surf Woody kit as it came with four 7” slicks. The tires came with 4 grooves in them. Believe it or not, I am considering how to fill 2 of the grooves (how anal is that?) as the slicks in those days came with 2 grooves. Thanks, always appreciate the input.

Scuffed up the “new” 7 inch tires and removed the double pin stripe whitewalls. Gonna have to scrounge up or make/modify the backing plates as they too wide for the smaller tires. Rarely can you change one thing without having to change one or two others. Part of the game.

“Traction Masters” installed.

Thanks, Andrew. Doing my best. Some slow progress on bars. Got ‘em painted. Gonna do some work on some scale 7” “cheater” slicks with required grooves. They will replace the scale 8” regular slicks I started this project with.

Though a Challenger, thought this might be of some interest to you. Bill Stepp’s 71 Challenger.

This is what I use.

I let it dry overnight, then, handle as little as possible.

I like the Green Stuff World non airbrush style daubed on with a micro brush. Wheels on the left are GSW and wheels on the right are model kit chrome.

The mysterious missing Traction Masters. They are about all that would have been allowed on this car in 1963-1964. They were supposed to be in the amt Starliner ford kit that I have, but, after 2 searches, gave up. Decide to attempt building some. A bit tedious, but, they should work. Used rods and square tubing, cutting off one side of the square. Waiting on glue to dry. They should mount directly to the frame.

Sometimes, the bear eats you. I have never had this much trouble removing Tamiya paint before. I soaked it in 91 iso for 5-6 days. Didn’t phase it. Scrubbed it and resealed for 3 days. Nothing. Gave up and used ELO . Took off some of the paint, but not all. Took Mr. Hamade’s advice and used Mr. Color leveling thinner and scrubbed with a paper towel. Bingo! Sometimes, in the process of giving advice, we learn to take advice. TS10 was the paint I used with Mr. Super Clear gloss. This was my first time using that gloss coat (perhaps significant?).