R. Thorne

Thanks, guys. Finally got around to posting some finished pics. That’s what I get for working on 4 models simultaneously. Sometimes, one or two suffer from lack of effort. The chrome work was less than average, didn’t even notice the back glass fitment until I posted these pics, and the front wheels placement seem off, but that could be because the wheels are posable. Anyway, it’s done and on the shelf, and every time I walk by the display case, I think of my 1970-1971 Army Buddy, Joe Bowen, and that’s what I built it for. So, mission accomplished. Thanks for looking, guys.

Glued wheels on, trial fit of chassis, installed tailights.

Thanks, you are much too kind. Finally back to finishing this one up. Call me lazy, but with the stock fuel tank molded in and limited room, I decided to forego the singular wheelie bar (perhaps at a later date). That, plus i was unsure how to mount it so that a scratch built one would be sturdy enough for handling. Anyway, another project for a later date to emulate one of these. I have not seen any resin or 3d types offered like these.

Procrastination is the mark of superior intelligence. At least, that’s what I keep telling myself (and my wife).

Sharp eye. Got these Alumastar wheels for Mike McDonald’s F/SA build that I posted on this forum. Since they are pretty close, I decided to use them on this one (my ocd not withstanding). Please post a pic and, if possible, the o.d. Of the wheels you ordered. Most are designed to emulate full size 17-19 inch wheels, unfortunately. Most of the cars I build use 15” wheels. Thanks for the input and, by the way, on all my builds I appreciate honest critiques, questions, and suggestions. That is how we learn and improve. Almost forgot, your Nova chassis and engine looks sweet.

Probably a tad prejudiced, but the Triumph hss bits that I have used in the garage for the past 50 or so years and in modeling for about 7 years are gonna be tough to beat. I have broken 0 of these in modeling. Are the newer bits as good as my old ones? Probably not, but still? As for the price, I am confused about your pricing of 5 to 20 dollars apiece. A quick search revealed this 60 piece number set from LeeValley that averages a buck and a half apiece.

Thought you might like some eye candy from Dragcitycastings site. He posts some great pics every day.

Thanks, Tim, for the pictures and further info. That certainly looks like an early style scattershield. I made a mistake on the later style Lakewood bellhousing that I used on my 55 Nomad stocker. I referred to it as coming from a parts pack, when ,in fact, it came from a 57 Nomad model kit. I just received today from eBay some engines from a 57 Nomad model kit that verifies this. The 55 Nomad that I built came with extra parts from a 57 Nomad that I forgot about. Anyway, it is a nice later 60’s Lakewood scattershield. Thanks again.

Yes, Trevor, that looks like it. Do you know what kit it came from?

Good tips Rick and Pete. I have had this set for 3 or 4 years and really like it.

Thanks, Mark. Probably too pricey for me just for the scoop. The top of the Mustang ram air is similar. Probably just make one.

As the title says, looking for a reasonable facsimile. I think it may have come on some Monogram 55 Chevy kits and others, but I am not sure of the specifics. Something like these pics, but there may be other variations.

Pictures???

Timing is everything. I just finished my Corvette stocker and just started today resurrecting a build on a C/MP 57 Chevrolet circa 1964 NHRA. Would this scattershield also be in the “new” Double Dragster Kit ? Just another reason for me to get one? Got a picture of it? Again, thanks for all you do for the modeling community.

Air cleaner base installed with some 6000 glue, just in case I decide to remove it later on with a better built one. Also, installed the firewall and, as a homage to Harry P., (gosh, I miss his up front honesty) put a crude alternator bracket on to keep it from “floating”.

Got the windows installed, headers painted with GSW and they fit pretty good.

Keep plugging away.

Thank you for all you do (and have done) to help this hobby grow. Much obliged.

Thanks, guys. Next is the tedious job of letters and numbers individual decals. They are not perfect replicas to his car, but sometimes we have to compromise. Used the gs hypo for the first time and really like the pin point applicator, but is a bit difficult to replace the cap. I apply the decals first as it is a lot easier, but sometimes errors are made. In this case I installed the windshield and, then noticed, the decals were upside down. Threw some micro set on and removed them and installed the decals (again) with the windshield installed.

Thanks. Your quality parts make it easier. Made some side windows out of .005” clear styrene to put the class numbers on. Seems like I have to do this on every drag race car I build. The headers i’m using come in the Camaro and Nova kits. I have tried making 2 part molds for them with very little success. Real race car tuned equal length headers are difficult to find except in NASCAR kits which rarely fit standard chassis cars. Temporarily installed the engine with some e6000 to check for header fit and made some header collectors from aluminum tubing. Put some “welds” on with thick ca glue.

One more. Installed wheels, first trial fit of chassis on body, has posable front wheels.

Still another update. Modified the alternator bracketing as the only bracket is for the alternator. Also trimmed off the stock water pump in preparation for installation of the electric water pump from Iceman Collections, then some Hoosier tire decals for the slicks only. Tried out some E6000 glue on the air cleaner base (boy, that mold casting came out pretty rough), and the water pump. Pictures don’t lie, do they? Wheels and tires are ready to go on.

Trying to catch up on the updates. Some semi gloss clear on the slicks, Mr. Metal aluminum on the trans, alternator, and air cleaner base. Glued the trans and carb on after some Chevrolet type orange paint on the engine.

Thanks for your kind words of encouragement and of course I will post the finished build (I am getting close). I cut the stick shift trans off daubed some GSW ( not the airbrush type) on the wheels with a microbrush. Also, increased the i.d. of the front tires to fit the wheels. I used an expandable rubber freeze plug wrapped with sandpaper. Also, drilled out in a couple steps, the mounting holes to fit the axle stubs I made up.

Some wash on the vents, some chrome on the lower molding, cleaned up the cast TH200, shortened the driveshaft, tried some airbrush type GSW on the trans, didn’t like it, tried something else later.