-
Posts
1,995 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Everything posted by Rocking Rodney Rat
-
I love this, the forced perspective is well done! Nice clean work on the BMF, a task that always confounds me.... -RRR
-
You, sir, have the patience of a saint. You must take it as challenge to build a very perfect version of very difficult kits. Very impressive, indeed.... -RRR
-
1930 Model A Coupe, full fendered street rod
Rocking Rodney Rat replied to Rocking Rodney Rat's topic in Model Cars
The recent Revell '30 Model A coupe was (is?) an all new tooling. It is completely different than the old Monogram '30 Model A coupe. -RRR -
Very clean build of a fiddly kit. I wasn't expecting this level of fit and finish when I opened this up! I'd like to see a few more pix!!! -RRR
-
1930 Model A Coupe, full fendered street rod
Rocking Rodney Rat replied to Rocking Rodney Rat's topic in Model Cars
Paint is Tamiya black with the body, hood and sides hit with clear pearl overcoat, which doesn't show up that well.... -RRR -
1930 Model A Coupe, full fendered street rod
Rocking Rodney Rat replied to Rocking Rodney Rat's topic in Model Cars
The fit was pretty good....I did have to push the fender assembly up into the wheel well opening on the body to get them to fit (hold while glue dries, then mount and glue rest of body to fender assembly, inside of the fenders did need to be widened to fit the body, I ground out the mounting tabs inside the fenders to get the tires to fit, a bit of futzing, no major surgery required.... -RRR -
I started this one a few months ago then got sidetracked with other builds. I finished it up recently. I mated the recently issued (and disco'd) Revell coupe body to the old Monogram '30 Model A coupe fenders. Most of the rest of the parts are from the Revell kit, with the blown SBC (manual trans was swapped for the auto). The carbs and air cleaners are from the Rat Roaster '32 roadster kit (low profile to clear the hood)....Paint is Tamiya black with the body, hood and sides hit with clear pearl overcoat, which doesn't show up that well.... Thanks for looking.... -RRR
-
Losing model parts
Rocking Rodney Rat replied to slusher's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I was looking all around for a driveshaft during final assembly, nowhere to be found... I finally realized it was in the dehydrator.... -RRR -
Nicely done, on my short list of cars to build.... -RRR
-
Now, THIS is a Car!!!!!
Rocking Rodney Rat replied to stavanzer's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Uglier than a mud fence.... -RRR -
definition of street rod and hot rod
Rocking Rodney Rat replied to Nazz's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I've ridden in your truck. Definitely a hot rod.... -RRR -
Tidy build of a finicky kit....well done!! -RRR
-
That's an "extra" part that is for the coupe version of the kit, not the roadster. You will want to use the other dashboard in the box for the roadster. The oval gauge cluster that fits that dash is a chrome part (in the '30/'31 coupe version, that we may see again some day).... -RRR
-
definition of street rod and hot rod
Rocking Rodney Rat replied to Nazz's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
A street rod has an SBC in the front and a can of wax in the trunk, while a hot rod has a flathead in the front and a tool box in the trunk. -RRR -
1932 Ford 'Mordor' sedan street rod
Rocking Rodney Rat replied to Rocking Rodney Rat's topic in Model Cars
Thanks to all for the kind words.... -RRR -
Go, man, go!!! Good to see your'e back at it..... -RRR
-
1932 Ford 'Mordor' sedan street rod
Rocking Rodney Rat replied to Rocking Rodney Rat's topic in Model Cars
Claude: This is what I used: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MINWAX-QUART-CLEAR-GLOSS-OIL-BASED-FAST-DRY-POLYURETHANE-8995789/402003791161?epid=19016387928&hash=item5d994b0d39:g:rAEAAOSwhkRWgux7 it came recommended by one of the guys in our local club. It's the first time I have used it, but I will use it on all shiny paint jobs going forward. I shot it through my airbrush, no thinning needed. A quart will probably go bad before you can use it all up. Application recommendations are one light coat and one (sorta) heavy. I shot two coats with about ten minutes in between. It's "self leveling" which I think is a euphemism for "it runs"...I attached the body to a bent up coat hanger (sometimes more successfully than others, see above) and then I move the part having been clear coated all around, so any potential runs are smoothed out and prevented. This gives a really nice shine even without buffing and polishing (which I never do). It seems to dry to a very hard surface. -RRR -
I finally finished this one up, kind of a long road with a few setbacks and screwups on my part. The body is a resin item from Ed Fluck at Drag City casting. The master was skillfully put together by our very own (and a friend of mine) A. Dennis Lacy. The concept is a fairly modern street rod with the ubiquitous SBC (from the Revell '30 Model A kit) with an auto tranny, smooth hood sides, a filled roof, smooth running boards with bobbed rear fenders (compliments of Norm Veber at Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland). '40 dash from the Revell 5ive window coupe, seats from the Speedwagon, most of the parts are straight out of the Revell '32 series of kits. Wheels are from the Revell '32 sedan and tires are from Modelhaus. Paint is decanted Testors One Hit Graphite Dust shot through an airbrush (my first attempt at using the device I bought about five years ago, I'm learning!!?!?!?). Clear overcoat is Minwax Polyurethane airbrushed on. It makes for a fairly smooth finish if one can keep the bugs out of it and refrain from dropping the body on the floor..... -RRR
-
Model A fenders from other kits can be made to fit with a little bit of work.... -RRR
-
-
Kool looking workshop....break out the Sawzall!!!! -RRR