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absmiami

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Everything posted by absmiami

  1. Oh no I feel a rant coming on .....
  2. check out the detail on the water pump and pulley and the front of the engine now this won't go into the Lemans Miniatures GT40 w/out major chassis surgery but I think it will fit once the kit engine bulkhead is removed and replaced with something more accurate - See Randy D's GT40 build .... and the transmission !!!!
  3. so the parts are off the supports and assembled for fit issues and pictures so here's Catch II: the exhaust bundles are casted in two parts with exhaust pipes crossing to the collectors I tried for an hour to assemble the two bundles - no can do - would love to know how Scale Production assembled their display engine ..... So I removed three exhaust pipes from the collectors to allow the loose assembly in the photos I'll have to attach the three separate pipes after painting and initial assembly - which will be a treat ... but as you can see - the detail is fiendish and accurate - and the 3D printing allow hollow part design so the exhaust tips are hollow right back to the collectors - try that on your plastic kit parts !
  4. another random thought the engine was raced by Gurney, Shelby, and others - with carbs - and with fuel injection - with different exhaust header configurations and different sumps etc - in Indy cars and Can Ams and sports cars - Lotus 30 - Lolas - Gurney Indy Eagles - you name it ...... the kit engine is designed for the GT40 - but there are lots of other cars that this engine could find its way into if anyone else wants to post their build pictures of this kit here be my guest - gramps - buy one and do a build with fuel injection actually I bought two and might make one with fuel injection for an Indy car just a thought ....
  5. actually the supports can be cut in different ways depending on their length I used a diamond bur in a foredom drill for the longer stalks - that seems to put minimum stress on the parts also used one of the fine toothed hand saw blades sold by UMM - that seemed to work well for the shorter supports managed to get everything apart without major problems will post some shots of the individual parts this weekend once you've got all the parts free - that's when the fun begins ...
  6. Catch I the parts come attached to 3D printed "stalks" and yes - you the modeler have to carefully remove each part it's like cutting through the Everglades grass near my home takes a while ....
  7. yes, observant one, it's a shot of the GT 40 engine on display at the Rev's Museum in Naples Florida - not Italy ... As raced by the Shelby team - it featured the Gurney Weslake scripted valve covers the photos are from Scale Production's site - they are a German outfit the engine is 3D printed in 24th scale - and yes, it has the neat Gurney Weslake valve covers .... comes as a kit per the 3rd photo .... for those of use who have not yet evolved to the level of Randy D's scratch-building skills [and maybe not in this lifetime ...] this kit provides a bonkers accurate and detailed GT40 engine - which could find it's way into an interesting number of kits / projects .... there is, of course, a catch .... or two ....
  8. so I'm calling this "some old racing engines" - is 1968 old enough ??
  9. spoiler alert next engine incoming ......
  10. some more stuff the second picture shows a neat breather pipe that was 3D printed replacing that with a nickel silver pipe but will use that perforated cap - don't want to try to make that ! also made an oil entry line from brass rectangular stock and brass bolt heads that is glued to the cylinder head .....
  11. https://www.permagrit.com/ just sayin ....
  12. one of the better features of the MFH Alfa engines is that they took the trouble to include a small diameter tube that carries two electrical wires back from the distributors to the engine bulkhead - the tube is perched on top of the right hand cyl head. so I grabbed a length of .082 mm steel tubing that I bought years ago from an English internet site/seller and filed a bunch of notches - the perforations are then opened with the point of an Xacto knife - and the head of a small dia pin drill and than threaded some .0075 inch black detail wire - the tube is about 3/4 inch in scale and should be close to scale accurate still have to figure out how to secure it to the valve cover - later .... and thank you Misters Laski and McNutt once we stop learning we are totally screwed - right ??
  13. trying to figure out where all of the water and oil lines are going -- thinking about this for weeks and then I remembered that the Fusi Alfa Romeo bible - published about 40 years ago - had the answers ! the book has a very good chapter on the 158 and 159 with half a dozen factory (?) drawings - including diagrams for the water and the oil lines yeah .... So the scroll shaped pump that I made needed a second outlet - that sends water down a pipe that distributes the coolant to the center of the cylinder head just below the exhaust pipe openings so I made the pipe with a length of .047 nickel silver rod - filed and shaped and tapered that will be glued in place after everything is painted .... that's one water pipe down and three to go ....
  14. gracias but your Delage parts are starting to get restless ... maybe I should start to finish the Delage engine on this blog pondering ....
  15. one of my favorite kits I'm planning to build another one next year or so .... like how you finished the seat covering, is it brushed on oil based paint or something else ?? shame it will be hard to see once this is finished ... will the body be British racing green - or what ? by the way - how dare you let "life reasons" interfere with your posts ...
  16. almost done - but the pumps are in place for the photo - but not attached will paint these separately - pondering whether to drill the dimpled holes and glue in some tiny bolts or bolt-head detail - I might - because the bottom of the engine will be visible through the sump opening dunno
  17. also had to make changes to this portion of the 3-D casting to locate what appears to be a pump and filter on the photo-right side of the casing the MFH 158 and 9 engine kits get this right - so I am referencing a couple of building blogs of these kits for help - getting as much of this cone as possible before gluing this portion of the gear casing back to the engine block - as I had done with the cylinder head
  18. time to make and/or correct some pumps at the front of the engine - using the usual suspects - evergreen plastic rods and stock - and a length of .040 brass tube cutting and drilling etc the scroll shaped pump is part of the cooling system - haven't yet figured out where everything runs ....
  19. wait a minute ... do you have the files and random tooth cutting bits made by Perma-grit ????
  20. has anyone kitted the '64 500 superfast ?? that's when Enzo hit the sweet spot ...
  21. this design is very interesting not an expert - but I think Pinnin proposed both front and rear engine designs to Ferrari - when? - in '67 ? this car carries design features from both the rear engine proto - the Dino - and the fr engine prototypes .... so it's a mutt but a very pretty one .... the coachbuild forum is devious - lots of rabbit holes to crawl down ...
  22. but: who was Princess De Rethy ??
  23. this week's lab experiment ..... the supercharger has a ring of small bolts lining the end cap facing forward in scale they can't be much larger than - what? - 3/8 inch ? to attempt to duplicate this ring of bolts I removed the smallest photo-etched bolts from this Tuner Model Manufactory sheet ... I picked them off of the backing with a hobby knife and coaxed them into a film container cap can't use a tweezers - these parts are too small the pens that I buy for my office - Pentel - have these neat little protective nibs on the pen tips took one off and glued it on to the end of a tooth pick - it's just a little bit sticky ... this tool can pick up the dots - just a little surface pressure will hold the dot to the "tool" to transfer it to the surface of the part, which I coated with some clear acrylic paint for an adhesive once the dot is on the part you can move it around and locate it with the end of a hobby knife now I'll paint the part - which will hopefully secure the "bolt" detail ... we'll see ...
  24. thanks but we recently lost THE engine guy Gerald WIngrove missed the news - as I seldom follow the treads in the other sections of this forum lets all make something tonite - in tribute ...
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