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Everything posted by absmiami
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So i grabbed a couple of sanders to add a bevell shape to the rings - so they will have a 3D appearance on the panel …
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30 yr old resin kits are full of surprises - and some of them are good …. The gauge decals are first rate - but thats what Quarterman was known for - the photo-etch sheet - upon close inspection - is relief etched - how nice!
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Misquote - everything …. Is in its right place …
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The resin dash casting is accurate for chassis 008 - the dash on 010 is the same except the two fuses are out of sight - either under or on the backside of the dash - so this is a good starting point -
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Seats are pretty good - once the resin plug at the base is removed - but both require some sanding and prep … the drivers seat definitely has adjustment tracks at its base - maybe the passenger seat too - not sure …
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Bulkhead features are added with Evergreen .012 plastic sheet plus some rod and strip - w holes drilled for steering column and and head lamp wires …
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’72 Dodge Demon Drag Racer 1/25 scale
absmiami replied to AmericanMuscleFan's topic in WIP: Drag Racing Models
Yup -
I want to hinge the box lids - but i dont want to fuss with scale hinges here - so ive drilled size 82 holes into the lids and inserted .009 steel wire - think i saw this technique on the forum - maybe Straightliner ? - in the drag section ? Anyway - this seems to work - and yes - Optivizer all the way …
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The bulkhead boxes have hinged covers - made fr Evergreen sheet and strip - have to keep these thin - there is not much space under the bonnett - which has been thinned - but is still about .030 to .040 thick …
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The brace is made fr 9 peices of Evergreen flat strip, angle, and H shaped strip - the assembly is glued together w T liguid cement and then glued to the body w CA … the two slots will accept the hinges - think i can desgn a hinge that will slide into the slots w/out glue - to allow for movement and adjustments - should work …
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The leading edge ot the bonnet hinges below the trailing edge of the nose - like this - the bonnett is attached by hinges that are bolted to a cross-brace that is welded across the fenders - like this …
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To the bonnett the two louvers are just tall enough to allow me to scribe openings - but then you need to mark and scribe the corresponding openings on the underside …
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More to do - maybe a coat of primer to finish the edge profile - will do something to replace the tube structure on the inside - and figure something out for the door hinge …
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Blew the doors off well - just the driver’s side door - the casting is very thick - it ate my UMM saw - so i removed the lower half of the door but managed to remove the top half w some excitement - the bottom half of the door was made fr some renshape - glued bits and peices of Evergreen along the door jam and slowly recovered a reasonable door gap …
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Yikes maybe i could grind the doors off - thinking -
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The grill trim is removed so I can reshape the opening just a little - the shape was not quite symmetric - now it is …
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Putty, filing and sanding - to improve the appearance of the drip rails … with 2 of the files in the rescesses of my tool chest - you never need them - until you need them …
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