bobss396

Ok. The front cage is done. I used 3/32" tubing to make things simple. I had to leave some structure in place since it locates the spindles and front shocks. I had a nifty brake master/clutch master plate made up. I will have to make it over. I used the 2 part method to create bars with compound-angle end pieces. Get the hard part done, attach them in the middle.

My son brought him home from work. He was about 6 weeks old and abandoned by his mom. We were lucky he ate on his own. His mom was a Russian Blue mix. He has the RB face structure. My sister is into cats, she says he is what is known as a Black Tabby. Also called a Marbled Tabby

Me and Mr. Ivan taking an afternoon siesta.

When I was living in Nassau County in 1983, one neighbor had 3 or 4 he was tinkering with. I'd like to get 2 of them and make one "good" car out of them.

This would be nice to have. As it us, the '66 pro street kit, the grille/lights takes an effort to look decent. Mine needed a lot of work and I'll hit it with the Revell chrome spray.

Back on it... I did an engine/radiator fit check... no Bueno. I was resolved to remove the existing front cage hoop and extended the chassis 3/8". The engine is wired up, headers are a good fit.

The Selden NY store is 20 miles each way. I got a heads up on the combo kit and picked up 2, one is for my brother. The Riverhead store has the Vega kits. Great for parts alone.

That K member on the Revell kit, I find it too restricting. I have a coupe in the works (BACK IN THE BOX...) and will be making something simpler for it.

Ever see the movie "PC U"? I think that was the name. One student was doing a thesis on that at any given time, there will be a movie on TV with either Hackman or Michael Caine starring in it. I recently watched The Conversation from around 1974.

Chassis source? Wow is all I got...

I'm using Scale Motorsports 1/20 Scale belt hardware. Easier to see and work with. I like a good-sized hole in the attaching points, .020" is pretty good since PE is a pain to open the holes on. Belt material... I never was able to get the fancy ribbon material to work. I scavenge flat gift-ribbon material, light colored preferred so it can be "painted" with markers. At the $ store, I bought a roll of light blue curling ribbon. I run it over a steel scale to knock down most of the texture. This is my current go-to belt material

Are you going to use/make a water pump riser? As it is, the fan will not even be close to the radiator center.

I lose stuff all the time. Especially one-off parts I have made. Right after I make the replacement... the original shows up!

I still wash 3D printed parts before prime, etc. I have had issues with primer not covering some recesses in things like wheels. A warm water soak with some dishwashing soap is all I do, a little scrub with an old tooth brush too.

Funny.. I dropped an xacto knife last week. I was wearing flip flops. I didn't even look, picked up the knife and went back to work. Then I noticed that my foot was sliding in the flip flop, and I'm on a blood thinner. The flip flop was full of blood, I had nicked my middle toe. I left a trail of blood across my kitchen floor on the way to the sink. Washed it all off... wrap the foot in a paper towel... back to work.

Send me a message, I can take a shot of the back if you want. What do you have to trade? Nothing big, or I'll just send them to you.

Hmmm... I just may go. We have an IPMS show in late March. Mainly military but I'll ask around about Mosquitocon.

That is amazing. I just picked up a '37 Ford pickup and my plans are to graft a '36 nose onto it. We have the technology...

I like using 1/24 scale engines in 1/25 cars, if there is plenty of room. It fills the engine bay more betterer IMO.

I liked working with the low side body trucks. It was easier to reach in when at a wreck site with cops breathing down my neck. Part of being on the wreck-roster was that we had to pick up the broken parts and sweep up the glass, etc.

I have a set I have to dig out and I'll post pictures. I forget if they are resin or are from a kit. I have had them for years. Edit: I have a set of these that are resin, will need the usual clean up thing.

I have a bunch of Motors Manuals, the oldest is from 1939. I have never bought a new one, either someone gives them to me or I find them at garage sales. When I did work on my 1964 Olds 88, it sure was a handy reference.

I may give the acrylic lacquer a try. I used a Krylon acrylic clear... the can was fairly new but I had problems with it. I've been using a body shop 1K clear, Model Master Extreme Lacquer clear (great with their paints), a Mr. Hobby product from Hobby Lobby and of course Tamiya TS-13.

It looks like it should work. You certainly have enough to last a while. I used the silks recently. To attach the rear panel on an old MPC stock car.