Jantrix

That is very nicely done. I like it alot. The white grill is unusual but works very well I think.

A little bit of overhang. Not too bad.

I'm diggin this more and more. And I like the fatter stripe.

After seeing some work, here's something I think bears repeating. "The vehicle must appear street legal". In previous runs, that has meant that the car has headlights, taillights, windshield and license plates. The full "baja" treatment without standard equipment will get nailed by the cops before you get out of town. Just food for thought.

How about a Latham supercharger? It would be period correct, and many AMT kits came with one. The Model T Double Kit springs to mind.

Sure post it up. I have a '50 Ford kit. I'll give it a try. Thanks guys.

I'm sure (pertty sure) Mike was kidding when he posted this. DO NOT TRY THIS. The chemical reaction of the accelerator on the CA glue creates a very intense amount of heat. A friend in my model club has the scars to prove this. You WILL hurt yourself. Based upon my experiences the accelerated bond is considerable weaker. This might be because of the chemical reaction but also because you might apply the accelerator before the CA has had time to flow into the joint completely.

As William pointed out, it is always safest, to stick with one brand of paint through the entire application process, primer, paint, clear. If you are still rattle canning it like me, then Duplicolor is a good bet. Having said that, I have had my best results (in rattle cans) with Krylon primer (from Walmart) and Testors One Coat lacquer paint and clear.

A little work done. Thinned out the door panel and added some stock to look like an unskinned door panel. Added a four barrel plenum to the three deuces. Added the radiator.

Or just resin cast. I would love to have some of those for my own rods.

It's all very solid work. Well done. How did you do those latches?

Looks good Rich. I know Bare Metal sells decal papers that are exclusively for ink jet or laser. Perhaps you used the wrong kind in the ink jet? Just a theory.

What a great idea. Very good work.

I'm very happy to see this one working out. Ron is a terrific modeler. I'm looking forward to seeing it.

Holy cow. That's just inspired. Well done sir, as usual.

Wow. I suck so bad at detailing the dashboards. You have a fine steady hand it seems.

After a contest this past weekend, it became very clear to me that I'm going to have to master polishing out a paint job if I want to do better. Any good Youtube tutorials? My attempts in the past have not been successful. I've burned through two very nice paint jobs on a corner or edge. Its hard to avoid them is you want the whole model shiny and not just the large open areas.

How many kits do you own that two builds could just disappear? Nice work by the way. Keep it going.

You are likely right. I was at the SE Street Rod Nationals this past weekend and there were several very good patina rods and they were getting a LOT of attention.

If you use Photobucket, you can set it up to resize anything you download to it, which I have no issues using to post from my phone.

Yep. Back at it I hope?

Very clean work. Looking forward to more.

I am very impressed with this build. Great design and execution.

Some really amazing work here guys. Lovin' it.

1. The flat red is perfect. But matte/flat paints are still kinda soft and prone to handling damage. So I advise a flat clear coat. 2. Don't rebuild the pick-up. Leave it as is and just build another to match the '55. Maybe use a '55 Nomad instead of the pickup? The reason being is that as a fairly new builder your early works are important. They are the measuring stick, on how much you have improved as a builder, in the years/decades to come. 3. Ignition wires are not rigid, and will not hold an arc. Like most things affected by gravity they will sag. They should look more like this. I think you are on the right track. A little more practice with BMF and you'll be a good clean builder. Well done.