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Just checked and it is definitely 1/24th, it measures 7-1/8” overall.

Nope...that was another thing not in the box. Oh well.

Nice save! It could also be this kit maybe?

I finally finished this one. It was a flea market special that I was missing all the clear parts and one tail light. It took me about six tries to get a windshield to conform and stay put!

Great tutorial! I like the painters tape idea. Now do one on how you do those beautiful scripts! Thanks, Greg.

And the door to the parkade should open automatically as you drive up.

Thanks! Yes it has a fan in it. It is a cheapo I bought on sale at Canadian Tire. It definitely doesn't move as much air as it did with no filter, but I guess if I had 6 trays stacked up and loaded with jerky...that would be a lot of restriction too.

I do all my spray painting in the garage which is far from a dust free sanitary place. So I decided to add an air filter for my dehydrator. It turns out that one from a '75 Chrysler New Yorker is just the right size! I have kept an eye on it for a while to make sure the extra restriction will not cause overheating. It seems to be OK so far.

I have Short Berber carpet where I build. It’s amazing how far bits can bounce! I have found what often works to find them quickly is to lay my powerful little flashlight flat on the floor and scan the area with it. Anything above the carpet level stands out.

Not really a build peeve, but a kit peeve. Why can't manufacturers mold in semi proper engine mounts? Granted this is an older kit, but the 409 engine in the AMT kit I am working on has a rectangular peg on the bottom of the oil pan for a front engine mount. It makes it difficult to build a stand to work on it and display it!

Wow Bill! Your attention to detail is astounding!

shipping charges apply

How long does the Elmers take to dry before it can be handled? And does it have any strength, or does that have to be built into the joint design?

I primed and painted all the miscellaneous parts for my '41 Chevy and put the finishing touches on the engine.

You can wipe it down with a used dryer sheet to remove any static electricity before painting. It also works great before using panel line accent.

So the bottled primer performed well, and had nothing to do with the reason for stripping the paint? Thanks.

It is a very thick liquid. I have a bottle of it in white also, and the solids will settle out of the solvent after sitting. Neither of mine came with a brush on the lid. I think I will stick with the aerosol stuff! I have brushed Tamiya lacquer over top of the grey stuff and it ate into the primer. Maybe it wasn't dry enough.

This is the Aurora kit that I got at a flea market for cheap. I don't know if it's the same tooling as the one you are looking at?

Are these two the same stuff? ie: If the liquid primer is properly thinned and sprayed with an airbrush, do they both adhere equally and accept paint equally? The bottle says to thin with lacquer thinner if needed. Has anyone had a problem with the liquid primer? Thanks, Greg.

Thanks Robert. I will give it a try then. So far I have only one Testors can that is leaking from the bottom seam and it has only been stored upright.

Has anyone stored the little Tamiya or Testors spray cans laying on their sides? Any issues? I could store a whole lot more of them on the shelf if I laid them down. Seems I am a better paint collector than I am a painter! Thanks, Greg

Nicely done! Best looking low rider I’ve seen.

Ain't none of mine coming apart easy! At the rate I build, I likely have enough kits to last me till I can build no more...so I don't plan on rebuilding anything.

Thanks for the info Guys. I have the kits I would need to do the swap (all AMT), but I think that may be a little beyond my skills right now.

Has any company kitted a 1/25th or 1/24th scale Mustang Notchback Coupe like this one? Thanks.