NOBLNG

I did a little durability test by scraping the back of the spoons with an Olfa knife. You can see how each of these faired. Once again the Testors Aztec seems to be the toughest. I am currently trying some Tamiya Pearl Clear. No pics yet, but it sure is purty!

Nice Job! I love how the hood and fenders came from the wrecker.

Beautifully Done! Makes me want to build one.

So I tries a quick test of some clear coats on some different paints. The yellow is Craftsmart acrylic satin (AirBrushed), the green is Testors acylic pearl (AB), the red is Spaz Stix solid red enamel (AB), the brown is Krylon aerosol enamel? (RattleCan), the burgundy is something I got mixed at a local autobody supplier for my truck (RC), and the gold is Craftsmart acrylic metallic (AB). The clears from left to right are: Testors Aztec acrylic (AB), Alclad Gloss laquer (AB), Pledge/Future (AB), Krylon Crystal Clear (RC), and Testors Gloss Coat (RC). Keep in mind that I did not adhere to proper application techniques. All paint was done in one heavy coat with no spoon prep at all. All clear coats were done in two heavy coats about two hours apart. All of the clears seemed to do pretty well over the acrylic paints, but the Testors Aztec is the clear winner in my eyes!

This would be mine! It is a '54 Willys on a Chevy Blazer frame.I went with a Buddy in his CJ7 to the Dakota Territory Challenge with it one year and LOTS of local 4 wheeling! I would love to find a model of this!! I also have a 2013 Mazda MX5 that is loads of fun to drive.

I bought some at the Dollar Store. They have no recycle # on them but I glued a piece of sprue to one with Testor's model cement and it stuck real well. Would this mean it IS styrene? It doesn't really matter to me anyway, since I am only using them for color tests.

No, just point me in the right direction. What is your favorite alternative to Future? I'll figure out how to apply it if I decide I want to.

Such as?? This is my first attempt at anything more than rattle-can paint and brush painting the trim.

Yes. How long would you let the Future dry before applying the foil? Can the Future be polished if it gets scuffed from all the handling during foiling? Thanks for the replies.

Ok, so I've got the body of my '68 firebird painted with Spaz Stix solid red. I will wet sand it a little to get it smooth, then... Pledge, install windows, BMF or...install windows, pledge, BMF or.......?

Here is the other set which I was forced to buy as an up-sell, since the local R/C dealer would not refund or credit me for the absolutely useless Zona ones they originally sold me! They are useable?, but nowhere near the quality of the Morse ones.

I found a good set from my local tooling supplier. The one on the left is a #61 (0.039") and the one on the right is a #80 (0.0135") Wow that's tiny! I took this pic with my I-phone held up to a 25X loupe.

Thanks all! I am thinking McMaster may be the best bet. I want to check with a couple of local suppliers on Monday first. It is a zona set that I got from the R/C dealer. Under a microscope anything smaller than #70 is not sharpened with a tapered point. Very poor quality in my mind. It is doubtful that I will ever need the smaller sizes, but if I am paying $25 bucks for a set, I think they all should be useable!

Does anyone know where to get a quality set of micro drill bits? I bought an Enkay push drill and 61-80 bit set from P/A and the drill won't hold the bits on center. I went to a local R/C dealer and bought a good micro hand drill, but the bit set I bought separately is BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH! Possibly a jeweler? Thanks.

Old thread but good tips! I just made a sanding "sponge" using some 1/4"x1-1/2" self adhesive neoprene gasket. Peel the backing off, stick it to the backside of whatever sandpaper grit you like, and trim the excess paper.

Yes, I made them myself. they are 3/16 stainless steel rod tig-welded to 1/4" s/s nuts. The inner nut is drilled through so the bolt only threads into the second one so it doesn't bind. They would not have to be stainless, I just had it on hand. At the top of the first picture you can see my sketch of my original idea. I was going to cut them from 1/8" aluminum with a jigsaw. They would not require any welding.

Here are a couple of long reach clamps I made to help glue the interior into this GTX. They are pretty handy and the clamping force can be varied by how many times the rubber band is wrapped around. I put some self adhesive gasket on one leg to protect the paint.

I would like to find a 1954 Willys Overland Pickup! This is the closest thing I could find, which doesn't seem to be available? Not that I would have the skills necessary to turn it into a pickup. https://www.google.ca/search?q=willys+pickup+model+kit&tbm=isch&tbs=rimg:CbhXnzbGq1EcIjijMWMFlxXZMQc9NEk9HdGW_15E87Kc7Jc4zxjQoDvnI4dP1691bPxLWnppgUFmC4ZkFsQMc9ijImSoSCaMxYwWXFdkxEa3nvWIrgiLuKhIJBz00ST0d0ZYRMq4TP006Al4qEgn_1kTzspzslzhFCQ91ne6Gm8ioSCTPGNCgO-cjhEXwv-ZrT5uvwKhIJ0_1Xr3Vs_1EtYR1-cFyOtd1O8qEgmemmBQWYLhmRGt571iK4Ii7ioSCQWxAxz2KMiZEVPz5H1LJ2N1&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiQhLDe57rYAhVp54MKHXvmCYgQ9C8IHA&biw=1097&bih=482&dpr=1.75#imgrc=dRxJj85QUMyjDM:&spf=1514948739670

I searched "gluing chrome" and came up with zero results? So... when gluing these headlights into a chromed grill, do I have to remove the chrome or not? I've always thought that the chrome had to be removed for glue to stick.

And -37 with the wind-chill! Hello, My name is Greg. I built quite a few models when I was a kid and even customized a few. I have since built a '57 Chevy, I have a '67 Plymouth GTX in the works that I started a couple years ago and a '68 Firebird still in the box. I will be retiring soon and am looking for things to do when it is too freaking cold to go out to the garage and work on my real vehicles. I think this site will be a great inspiration to get back at the models. Thanks for all the great pictures and info too.