NOBLNG

How many builds do you have going at the same time? I have only ever worked on one model at a time, but I am going to start another so that I will have something to do while glue and paint are drying. I imagine some of you must have multiples?

Congrats. I was expecting to see a 500th anniversary model??

I too am amazed at the details like the window and the missing battery caps. I am surprised to see the rad cap still there! Nice Job!

Thanks for all the advice everyone. I have stripped all the red paint off with super clean and most of the white primer is off. I am going to soak it again and/or try alcohol. I have bought some Tamiya fine grey primer that I will use this time. I am reluctant to use the spaz stix paint again unless I can thin it down some. I will have to do a little experimenting I guess. BTW Steve, that Galaxie is BEAUTIFUL!

Nicely done Dan. Where did you get the Willys pickup? I want one! I sent you a PM.

Thank You for the compliments. None of mine are going under glass, that's for sure! On the rear I used MM stoplight red metallic and I should have thinned it down...it is very sticky stuff. By out of whack, do you mean out of scale or don't belong on this vehicle? Just curious. Greg.

Super Job! Nice color and it really shines.

I was under the impression that the red paint would work better over white primer. The kit was molded in white so it would be hard to see if I sanded through the white primer, hence the light coat of the grey primer first.

Very Nice looking so far! Please post more pics of it when it's done. I am my own worst enemy as I tend to be very impatient and lay it on too thick

That is what I am thinking also. I am not going for a factory color. I thought the Spaz Stix sounded good because it was "ready to spray" from the bottle.

I am trying to get this Spaz Stix solid red paint on smooth. I put one coat of krylon grey primer and one coat of krylon white primer from a rattle can. Then I airbrushed a lite coat of the red, heavier coat of red, wet-sand, another coat of red, wet sand, another coat of red. This coat, although fairly smooth, has dust or lint in it and needs more sanding. By now I have lost a lot of the detail on the script, mostly from paint build-up, as I tried not to sand it! I have read somewhere on here that some folks sand the script off and just use the decals. I have also read that some put 12 coats of paint on? Should I strip the paint and start over? What do others do to preserve the details?

I believe it was a Monogram. It was moulded in red and the floor pan has MMI cast in it.

This one I started at least 5 years ago and just completed. I got motivated again after stumbling upon this forum. I have no idea what the paint is, but most likely another touch up rattle can from Canadian Tire. The body was twisted, likely from being tossed in the box and left for years, so I had to glue a spacer/shackle under one leaf spring to get it to sit on all 4 tires.

I did this one maybe 20 years ago, when I was a young lad in my 30's? The paint is '81GMC Moto Master touch-up paint from Canadian Tire. I should probably post this one in the Glue Bomb thread!

I did a little durability test by scraping the back of the spoons with an Olfa knife. You can see how each of these faired. Once again the Testors Aztec seems to be the toughest. I am currently trying some Tamiya Pearl Clear. No pics yet, but it sure is purty!

Nice Job! I love how the hood and fenders came from the wrecker.

Beautifully Done! Makes me want to build one.

So I tries a quick test of some clear coats on some different paints. The yellow is Craftsmart acrylic satin (AirBrushed), the green is Testors acylic pearl (AB), the red is Spaz Stix solid red enamel (AB), the brown is Krylon aerosol enamel? (RattleCan), the burgundy is something I got mixed at a local autobody supplier for my truck (RC), and the gold is Craftsmart acrylic metallic (AB). The clears from left to right are: Testors Aztec acrylic (AB), Alclad Gloss laquer (AB), Pledge/Future (AB), Krylon Crystal Clear (RC), and Testors Gloss Coat (RC). Keep in mind that I did not adhere to proper application techniques. All paint was done in one heavy coat with no spoon prep at all. All clear coats were done in two heavy coats about two hours apart. All of the clears seemed to do pretty well over the acrylic paints, but the Testors Aztec is the clear winner in my eyes!

This would be mine! It is a '54 Willys on a Chevy Blazer frame.I went with a Buddy in his CJ7 to the Dakota Territory Challenge with it one year and LOTS of local 4 wheeling! I would love to find a model of this!! I also have a 2013 Mazda MX5 that is loads of fun to drive.

I bought some at the Dollar Store. They have no recycle # on them but I glued a piece of sprue to one with Testor's model cement and it stuck real well. Would this mean it IS styrene? It doesn't really matter to me anyway, since I am only using them for color tests.

No, just point me in the right direction. What is your favorite alternative to Future? I'll figure out how to apply it if I decide I want to.

Such as?? This is my first attempt at anything more than rattle-can paint and brush painting the trim.

Yes. How long would you let the Future dry before applying the foil? Can the Future be polished if it gets scuffed from all the handling during foiling? Thanks for the replies.

Ok, so I've got the body of my '68 firebird painted with Spaz Stix solid red. I will wet sand it a little to get it smooth, then... Pledge, install windows, BMF or...install windows, pledge, BMF or.......?