NOBLNG

I was under the impression that the red paint would work better over white primer. The kit was molded in white so it would be hard to see if I sanded through the white primer, hence the light coat of the grey primer first.

Very Nice looking so far! Please post more pics of it when it's done. I am my own worst enemy as I tend to be very impatient and lay it on too thick

That is what I am thinking also. I am not going for a factory color. I thought the Spaz Stix sounded good because it was "ready to spray" from the bottle.

I am trying to get this Spaz Stix solid red paint on smooth. I put one coat of krylon grey primer and one coat of krylon white primer from a rattle can. Then I airbrushed a lite coat of the red, heavier coat of red, wet-sand, another coat of red, wet sand, another coat of red. This coat, although fairly smooth, has dust or lint in it and needs more sanding. By now I have lost a lot of the detail on the script, mostly from paint build-up, as I tried not to sand it! I have read somewhere on here that some folks sand the script off and just use the decals. I have also read that some put 12 coats of paint on? Should I strip the paint and start over? What do others do to preserve the details?

I believe it was a Monogram. It was moulded in red and the floor pan has MMI cast in it.

This one I started at least 5 years ago and just completed. I got motivated again after stumbling upon this forum. I have no idea what the paint is, but most likely another touch up rattle can from Canadian Tire. The body was twisted, likely from being tossed in the box and left for years, so I had to glue a spacer/shackle under one leaf spring to get it to sit on all 4 tires.

I did this one maybe 20 years ago, when I was a young lad in my 30's? The paint is '81GMC Moto Master touch-up paint from Canadian Tire. I should probably post this one in the Glue Bomb thread!

I did a little durability test by scraping the back of the spoons with an Olfa knife. You can see how each of these faired. Once again the Testors Aztec seems to be the toughest. I am currently trying some Tamiya Pearl Clear. No pics yet, but it sure is purty!

Nice Job! I love how the hood and fenders came from the wrecker.

Beautifully Done! Makes me want to build one.

So I tries a quick test of some clear coats on some different paints. The yellow is Craftsmart acrylic satin (AirBrushed), the green is Testors acylic pearl (AB), the red is Spaz Stix solid red enamel (AB), the brown is Krylon aerosol enamel? (RattleCan), the burgundy is something I got mixed at a local autobody supplier for my truck (RC), and the gold is Craftsmart acrylic metallic (AB). The clears from left to right are: Testors Aztec acrylic (AB), Alclad Gloss laquer (AB), Pledge/Future (AB), Krylon Crystal Clear (RC), and Testors Gloss Coat (RC). Keep in mind that I did not adhere to proper application techniques. All paint was done in one heavy coat with no spoon prep at all. All clear coats were done in two heavy coats about two hours apart. All of the clears seemed to do pretty well over the acrylic paints, but the Testors Aztec is the clear winner in my eyes!

This would be mine! It is a '54 Willys on a Chevy Blazer frame.I went with a Buddy in his CJ7 to the Dakota Territory Challenge with it one year and LOTS of local 4 wheeling! I would love to find a model of this!! I also have a 2013 Mazda MX5 that is loads of fun to drive.

I bought some at the Dollar Store. They have no recycle # on them but I glued a piece of sprue to one with Testor's model cement and it stuck real well. Would this mean it IS styrene? It doesn't really matter to me anyway, since I am only using them for color tests.

No, just point me in the right direction. What is your favorite alternative to Future? I'll figure out how to apply it if I decide I want to.

Such as?? This is my first attempt at anything more than rattle-can paint and brush painting the trim.

Yes. How long would you let the Future dry before applying the foil? Can the Future be polished if it gets scuffed from all the handling during foiling? Thanks for the replies.

Ok, so I've got the body of my '68 firebird painted with Spaz Stix solid red. I will wet sand it a little to get it smooth, then... Pledge, install windows, BMF or...install windows, pledge, BMF or.......?

Here is the other set which I was forced to buy as an up-sell, since the local R/C dealer would not refund or credit me for the absolutely useless Zona ones they originally sold me! They are useable?, but nowhere near the quality of the Morse ones.

I found a good set from my local tooling supplier. The one on the left is a #61 (0.039") and the one on the right is a #80 (0.0135") Wow that's tiny! I took this pic with my I-phone held up to a 25X loupe.

Thanks all! I am thinking McMaster may be the best bet. I want to check with a couple of local suppliers on Monday first. It is a zona set that I got from the R/C dealer. Under a microscope anything smaller than #70 is not sharpened with a tapered point. Very poor quality in my mind. It is doubtful that I will ever need the smaller sizes, but if I am paying $25 bucks for a set, I think they all should be useable!

Does anyone know where to get a quality set of micro drill bits? I bought an Enkay push drill and 61-80 bit set from P/A and the drill won't hold the bits on center. I went to a local R/C dealer and bought a good micro hand drill, but the bit set I bought separately is BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH! Possibly a jeweler? Thanks.

Old thread but good tips! I just made a sanding "sponge" using some 1/4"x1-1/2" self adhesive neoprene gasket. Peel the backing off, stick it to the backside of whatever sandpaper grit you like, and trim the excess paper.

Yes, I made them myself. they are 3/16 stainless steel rod tig-welded to 1/4" s/s nuts. The inner nut is drilled through so the bolt only threads into the second one so it doesn't bind. They would not have to be stainless, I just had it on hand. At the top of the first picture you can see my sketch of my original idea. I was going to cut them from 1/8" aluminum with a jigsaw. They would not require any welding.

Here are a couple of long reach clamps I made to help glue the interior into this GTX. They are pretty handy and the clamping force can be varied by how many times the rubber band is wrapped around. I put some self adhesive gasket on one leg to protect the paint.