NOBLNG

Beautiful paint and chrome work on it!

That kit would look better with some WIDE tires and the fenders widened to match, rather than the pizza cutters it looks like it came with. Do you build them according to the movie, or modify them at all?

Did you sort it out? Maybe contact Iwata and ask them if they are interchangeable? Other than that, you could try both needles in each airbrush and see if any combination causes problems...process of elimination!

Very convincing! That kind of conversion was done quite a lot back in those days.

I like what you're doing! Overcharged would be a good name for it!

OK, I get it... if I can sand the detail off, yet keep the raised "base' of the detail to apply the decal to... then great! It will have the detail of the decal and the raised presence of script. Thanks!

Thank You Steven. You are one of the many Folks on this forum whose opinions I value greatly! So, you are saying the "Bonneville " script on the trunk and tailfins was foiled just before the final coat or two of paint? What about the use of the kit decals? Over the script or sand it off? All advice appreciated!

I just want to say a big Thank You to all the members that have responded to my projects so far! This is a great forum. It has really helped me so far to deal with the rigors of... ahh "retired life". I hope to be here for a while!

I have question about the details /decals on this kit. There are decals for most of the emblems that are cast into the body. 1) If I am going to use the decals, do I sand off the mouldings and apply the decals to a flat surface, or will a solution like micro sol allow the decals to conform over the cast in mouldings? 2) There is no decal for the "Chevrolet" on the trunk. It is a very fine detail. Would I be better off to try to paint it after the body is painted (assuming my main paint job does not obliterate the detail) OR... apply foil to the detail, trim it as close as possible and clean it off after every coat of paint? Thanks in advance, I have not dealt with this fine of detail until now.

Thanks All for the pics! I think I am going blue with a silver top. If the Mods want to move this, I can use it as my build thread?

Cool! It looks like she was just dragged out from behind the barn.

Nice! It looks like it was just hauled out of the bush, motor tuned up, and some new rubber slapped on her. Good to go!

Beautiful...just beautiful!

Thanks All for the compliments!

Cool build! My Dad had a '67 Biscayne in the light blue with a straight six and three on the tree. I took my drivers test in it. A few years later I bought an identically equipped '67 off of a buddy of mine. He sold it because the plastic connector that held the column shift tubes together snapped. I put a couple sheet metal screws through the two tubes, drove it for a couple months and sold it back to him. Good memories!

Both of his needles are 0.5 mm. He just needs to know if there is a different taper on the ends. You could lay the needle down sideways on the clay and carefully push it into the clay with the flat side of a ruler. Then CAREFULLY extricate the needle and compare the other one to the impression, but this still does not tell you which needle belongs with which airbrush. Whatever you do, DON'T bend it!

It looks not bad to me. Not everyone wants to buy purpose-made details for their models, or wait six weeks for delivery. Don't get me wrong, it's GREAT that these suppliers exist for those who enter contests or are obsessed with realism. But to me, part of the fun is being resourceful and finding common things that are close enough to pass as real. Scale IS one thing that is very important to me, wires and hoses should be "close" to proper scale size.

Can't help you on this particular problem. I know that the 0.35 needle and the 0.5 needle for the HP-CS are both the same diameter and only the tip grind is different on the needles (so the packing nut does not need to be changed when changing needles). Best to contact Iwata or do a test using each needle in both airbrushes to see if they work. I doubt you would damage them by carefully switching them.

That is one beautiful paint job!

I use tupper ware containers to carry parts back and forth to the garage for painting. Pill bottles for tiny parts. I am heading to Princess Auto today to buy one of those units with all the tiny little drawers in it to store all my spare tires and whatever else. I also built this shelf to store paints and the rack to keep paint brushes, markers and hobby knives handy

I am about to build one of these and every post I dig up on here has no pics... thanks to PB! It is the Lowrider 2'n1 kit # 85-2574. If anyone has tips on this kit or pictures of any '64 impala builds, please post them up. Thanks in advance, Greg.

Thanks Patrick, thanks Chris. Here are a couple of the interior as it went together. Also a better shot of the engine compartment.

Well this started out to be an OOB build with just a little engine detailing. The more I got into it the more things I wanted to improve. The paint is Testors Aztec Opaque Turquoise with Aztec clear. The roof, grill and bumpers are Tamiya gloss white, decanted and airbrushed. I have not yet glued the hubcaps on since I want to make or find some dog dish style originals maybe. Thanks for looking, comments welcome. Build thread here:

Looks like it's coming along nicely!

This one is pretty much done. I have not glued the hubcaps yet, as I want to try making a new set closer to factory. I sanded the side emblems down quite a bit since they were about 1-1/4" thick in scale.