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bill-e-boy

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Everything posted by bill-e-boy

  1. Who are sometimes tougher than you think
  2. List all you unmade models and see how many you can complete before you fall off your perch
  3. Brush painting can be done OK. You need to use thinned enamel pant like the Humbrol or Revell tinlets. This needs to be thinned a little with mineral turpentine and brushed on with a wide flat bush and flowed on. The reason to use the enamel paints is they are slow drying and do not set up between strokes like acrylic paint does. You cannot brush paint metallic paints successfully. I have heard you can use laquear paints put on unthinned but you will be in for a big colour sand job at the end Clear coating and colour sanding as if you spay painted works too but bear in mind that enamel paint takes an age to gas out. Colour sand and then let it gas out some more before trying to polish This was how it was done before I started using an airbrush
  4. I am a big fan of the 55-56 Mopars in any form - but then I am biased but as a 55 Dodge was mentioned so here is my 2 cents worth of derailment I have a real deal 56 Dodge which was originally balck and off white where the pink (salmon) now is. And the 1:25 model - a resin kit from Model Car World
  5. This coming along nicely Kurt - been watching along and am gob-smacked at the added detail you have scratched together
  6. Thanks for the comments. Slowing moving along. Getting chassis together The interior is done. The shifter is a bent pin with the the ball chromed with Molotow and the shifter riser scratch built. The hemi is a manual so needed a third pedal so scratched an accelerator pedal. The roll bar is from the earlier build as is the bare door panels. The seat and steering wheel are from the spares box. All wheels on ant right side up. Had to remake the engine mounts as the original mounts on the frame were cut back for the original Hemi I was using. Working on more engine detail Made up the fuel manifold made up and bosses mounted onto the carbs. Looks huge but the larger diameter bar is 1.15mm dia. And looking blobby as I has just flooded it with Molotow In the mean time the body has been colour sanded to 12000 grit and waiting to be polished - more to come
  7. The Ardun banger idea is kool Here is a Cragar conversion I did a little while ago
  8. Nice work going on here - been away from home on project so best I could do was lurk - home now so hopefully the paint has set up enough to polish out. It was too soft before I while I was waiting got into another project, then life and work got in the way. Interesting project - using electricity to heat a steam boiler instead of burning up fossils - uses lots of power too.
  9. Its been a while since my last post. I got the body and chassis in colour during Oct/Nov then sodded off out of town for a couple of months for work. Every thing got parked up for a while and I missed the 2022 window for 90th anniversary so will need to celebrate the 91st instead. I worked on the rear inner guard fit and prepped the the body after paint removal and got some primer on it Had some issues with the paint - I mixed a custom metalic blue Tamiya lacquer and got this on OK. When I clear coated the clear ate into the blue and tiger striped the finish. Resanded and reshot the blue then took it real easy with the clear with lots of mist coats - that sorted it. So it sat for a couple of months to cure whether it needed it or not After getting back from being away I have been working on the small stuff so will update when some rea progress has been made Thanks for looking
  10. Looking good Jim. You have done a fantastic job on the interior. I think it takes balls to cut open doors, I have tried it and ended up parking it. I did a 300B a couple of years back and found I had to do a lot of clean up on the body - lots of mould lines to clean up and some a little vague. The 300 and 300B are nice looking cars IMO
  11. I have just come across this theme build. I built this engine with something like this theme build in mind
  12. Hia Mathias - I apologise for hijacking your thread for a wee rant. You are doing a great job and the paint job looks kool Cheers Bill-e-boy
  13. Such a pain to pay $$$$$ for a kit to have this sort of thing to happen. Real pain as I live in New Zealand which is even further away from Revells call centre and when I tried for a replacement part which was supported with a photo they sent me the wrong thing - once bitten etc - but I still end up with unusable kits Revell needs to sort this sort of issue out as I have two unusable 29 Roadsters with the same issue and I am reluctant to spend NZ$95 for a kit that has this sort of dog droppings in it "RANT (sheep) RANT (shina) blah (sh...) blah"
  14. Great builds Tim The blue one is very nice with the poseable steering I note that you have used the A La Kart interior in both builds. An excellent interior but not sure how comfortable it would be in real life though. I too have used this interior in a couple of my A roadster build ups I also see that you have added the chassis reveals to the green car - the AMT frame does not have these. This would have been cutting edge back in the 70's. And a hi-boy to boot as just about all the current builds at that time were resto-rods Cool
  15. Awesome build and well done
  16. Kepp up the good work. Kit bashing is challenging work but, in the end rewarding too. I recently channeled a 32 coupe. The interior sides had about 5mm cut from the bottoms. The rear wall was sectioned the same amount, but the shape was too wide at the bottom. The pix show the wedge shapes removed from the sides of the back panel form the interior side to line up with the rear wall. you can see the faint line where the rear wall has been sectioned. There are most probably a number of ways to section the interior but this is what I did
  17. Could use the Tamiya Toyoda as a starting point
  18. It has what looks like a little V8-60 in it The one behind it is interesting too - looks like it has a Lincoln V12 for power
  19. Built this kit recently and had to move the rear attachment points for the wheels about 3mm backwards and a little less for the front end. Both ends are misaligned This shows as a misalignment if you look at the chassis but as the rear end and front end are moulded in you cannot move these. I was not too concerned on how that looked - my main focus was topside. I did not have a 67 Fairlane GT(A) to hand so I did not concentrate too much on the chassis. I believe the kit has origins as an annual from 1969 and most probably a promo as it looks like it may have had screws to attach the chassis to the body With the dodgy chassis wheelbase alignment "fixed" my version came out OK
  20. Looking good Nothing like a bit of pressure lol
  21. The Buttera 26 T chassis is too short to fit under the A guards - I lengthened mine after being shown a similar conversion by @tim boyd There is a similar build thread going on with lots of reference pix - look for Tim Boyd Tribute build Just not sure how to imbed a link to the thread
  22. Nice build Bob
  23. Just could not stand the refrigerator white paint - just does not scream hot rod. So into the dunk it goes. I use brake fluid and it took some effort with a brass wire brush, a toothbrush and a tooth pick to get all of the paint off but all the better for the effort The chop job was a good one so hopefully not too much body work will be needed to get it ready for paint While the body was going for a swim I have been working on the engine and interior The engine is wired with a prewired distributor that has been in my aftermarket box for yonks. The coil I turned up a while ago when I wanted one so made 4 or five for future projects. The valleys on the rocker covers were painted satin black as was the block and trans In the original build the interior was stripped down and painted aluminium to represent a race type ally interior. It was cleaned up and reprayed with Alclad polished aluminium The dash is a sectioned width wise from a 69 Cobra race car option - for the race car look. When I was looking for a dash I found that one from a Revell 40 coupe id a drop in for the Revell 32 rods - will keep that for another project street rod project More to come Thanks for looking
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