Hermann Kersten

Hi Sergey, I like your detail work and the art of modeling. The rear tires look very good. Hermann.

Great build and very nice trailers. The budhole rims on the trailers are awesome, simple but awesome. Hermann.

Thanks for the nice comments and the interest gentlemen! Hermann.

or a chain

I have the full CTM set, but there is a downside, regarding the grill parts. The grid parts are not in line under each other, you can see this when you place the grid parts under or above each other. In the end I choose for realism, and in my case, the kit choice is the best. Drilling out is also not an option, because the plastic is pretty thick and im not convinced that this will give a good result at the end. Ok guys, today i show you some progress on this Lowliner. Today it is time to show you the diesel tank supports and straps. These straps are seperated from the tanks, so that with the paintjob i can paint seperate the tanks. The tanks get an aluminium colour and the straps getting the chassis colour. After the paintjob, i can place the tanks in the straps and the 1mm pinns at the end of the straps are then glued into the supports. The next job was to finnish some details at the front. First of all, the side covers of the radiator.... The honeycomb structure in the front cross beam.... And a look at the front where you can see the round tubes, where in real life, the front bumper is attached. Than the last work of the front wheel suspension with the torsion- and reaction rods, to complete the front air suspension. Then make brass a movable steering column, so that when the cab tilts, the steering column extends and follows the movement to the front. After all this detailing, it was time for colour. I choose for a retro colour which is still regularly seen in Germany, also for this New Actros. Personally, I really like this "typical German" color. After the paintjob, it was time to attach the details at the front side that i had made in an earlier stage like the air supply tube or channel, the module on the right and a wiper mechanism. And an intermediate overall picture with the cabin placed on the chassis. When the paint is hardend, than i will polish this cabine with regular car polish and wax for a shiny finnishing. Thats it for today gents, and see you next round! Source Hermann.

Hello fellow modelers, Today it's time to show some further progress on this German Lowliner. The door panels are now also painted, and the, CTM photo-etch, grids for the sound boxes have been installed. After this interior job, I'd Like to have the cabin ready for the paint job. This means that the front cover must be made hinged but.....there is a catch. The front cover must both fold down and open. After some thinking, i made some buckling hinges from metal, but the problem was that there was not enough space between the sides of the cab and the inner side of the front grill. So in this case i had to rethink about this job and figure out a more simple system. At the sides of the cab i made small raillings and small pins on the inside at the ends of the front cover, so that the cover will fold down when it opens. Last but not least, I made two supports from brass, which fall in the folded position, exactly between the front cover and the sides of the inside cabin. On the inside of the front cover, another 2 small pins have been made, which, when the cover is folded up, these pins are resting or fitting in the cab supports. In the next picture, the red arrows will explain this. If there are no pins attached here, this will happen to the cover..... And with the pins attached..... The next pictures shows the overall image. The next job is some detailing of some chassis parts. We start with the exhaust supports..... Making a power steering unit.... Then the protective plates on the cabin bottom.... More realistic details on the inner wheel arches... As you can see on the pictures, real rubbers have been used on the protective plates. These rubber tubes are from Revell kits and are a nice application for this work. To glue these tubes straight on the plates, I put a brass shaft in the tube, glue the tube on the plate and removed the brass shaft. The result is a perfect straight tube. And a complete picture with the cab on the chassis. A lift cylinder, made out of brass, for the cab, so that this lift cylinder holds the cab in a maximum tilt position. And a picture where the cab is in the maximum tilt position. The battery box, hanging in the back of the chassis, is filled with fishing lead, so that the rear part of the chassis stays on the ground when the cab is tilted. So gents, that's it for today and as usual, until the next round! Source Hermann.

The dolly looks awesome, very nice detail work and the tires are well chosen. Hermann.

Very nice project with a lot of modifications that are well executed. Keep up the good work. Hermann.

Very interesting project, the details on the pump look very realistic. Hermann

A model that you do not often see, very nice to see one that is also done well. Thank you for sharing. Hermann.

Nice is not enough, it's a beautiful rig! Top work! Hermann.

Hello gents, Long time no see, but not forgotten. Today i show you the progress of this Marmon. The cabine is closed, sanded and the rubber of the windshield attached. The headlights are also made from the CTM photo-etch USA headlight set, just like with the Freightliner FSBA. After the cabine was done, i focused myself on the radiator grill. This ngrill is from the Revell Marmon kit and i had to modify this grill to a right one for this Marmon model. First i show you the old situation. And the modification of this grill. First i cut the frame of this grill so that a new frame around the grid could be made. After this cutting job i start to build up a new frame, and on the grid also a frame where the surface is flush with the outside frame. After this job, I placed two strips behind the grill, which are later will be attached on the straight lower part of the cabin. Than it's time for a dry-fit...… And placed on the chassis for the looks..... It already starts to look like the "few" reference pictures in the top of this topic. That's it for today gents, and see you next round! Hermann.

Very nice progress and the scratch build of the cabine looks very good. Also all the work with the rivets Yep, I know exactly what you mean. Hermann.

Absolutely great scratch work what you showing here. The cardan shaft looks awesome, i also make them workable so that the cardan looks more natural instead of a lump of plastic. Hermann.

Thanks for all your nice comments guys! Thanks for this info Jim, i like to know what i'm making. Yes Clayton, this Marmon get also a tandem puptrailer, without this trailer this Marmon looks not complete. Yes Brian, its not that hard, but it's a patience job. First i used a belt hole pliers and looked for the right size of the hole. Than cut out from 0,5mm styrene a hole and take out the circle you just cut out. On this round styrene i glued 3 strips of 0,25mm x 0,5mm on its 0,25mm side with the extra thin Tamiya glue. To make this job easier, these strips should be longer than the round styrene and when all is dry and hardened, you can cut this strips on the right size. Than sand the elips shape on these strips and you get very nice air vents. Hermann.

A very nice project of a truck that you do not see much as a model. Hermann.

Jim, Geoffrey, JC and Tom, thanks for the nice comments, I really appreciate it. Yes gents, today it's time for some the small details in the cabine. First I made the pedals, airvents, and handles for the doors and on the dashboard at the co-rider side. After this job i had to made a steering colom and the steeringwheel. The steering wheel is a modefied KW wheel, and the colom is a duplicate from the AITM marmon transkit. Than it's time to paint the interior and attach the dash components. On the driver's side I have made a substructure what is attached under the dash, an on the co-rider side i had to make a kind of black box. I really don't know what this black box is or what it do. Anyway, after all the components are made and painted, i put also a ashtray at the co-rider side. Later another ashtray will be made, what is attached to the drivers door. Let's go to the paintjob..... Looks very different from all that white plastic. Then in the meantime I continue with the other details, and I see you again with the next round. Hermann.

Awesome detail work, this is really enjoying . Hermann.

Thank"s for the nice comments guys! For the really small parts i use a magnifying glasses and for the cleaning i use the Cif liquid and a toothbrush. With this cleaning fluid u sand the gleu particles away without damaging the plastic. After this cleaning job it looks clean and smells very fresh. The glue i use is a Revell contacta glue with needle and for the rivetting i use the Tamya green extra thin glue fluid with small brush. For the sanding i use the sanding sticks wich are available in any modelling store. Today i show some small progress of this Marmon Magnavan. Now the flooring plate is done, it was time to open up the engine bay. I cut the styrene out, sand it smooth and after all this work it look like this.... After this job i use the CTM Kenworth dashboard set to make a Marmon dash. This KW set approximate the actual Marmon dash very well. From this set i had to cut 1 plate and make 2 seperate parts to make it look like the real dash. All the parts are not glued yet, its only for showing, because i have to paint the dash first before i attach all the dash parts. Than the nicest part.....the loading box is made now and with a dry fit it gives this Magnavan model a whole different face. Ok guys, this was it for today and see you next round gentleman. Hermann.

Thank's for your comment Brian! Ok guys, today a small update from this Freightliner. Today I show you the modification of the transparent part of the AMT kit. From this glass part i cut out the windshield, what will be placed inside the window frame. The side windows are made out of 0,5mm thick transparent styrene. Than some small details, like the registration number for the weighbridges, at the front of the cab, and the windshield placed for a fit. Then it's time to start with the cabin for Koos. First of all i had to smoothen the roof and sides before i start with the rivets. Than i made the double steps for this and the single steps for my cabine, and with this photo I also show how the inner roof is modified. In the absent of the AMT glass part I have to make a replacement of the glass thickness, wich is the inner roof. And the single steps for my cabin, which are already painted and attached to the cabine.. That's it for today, and see you next update. Hermann.

Why weathering or more weathering? Looks great to me already, maybye some more pictures for the nice details. Hermann.

Awesome diorama. You did a great job with this truck and afcourse, also the cars. Nice details, nice truck and carswhat is captured into nice pictures. Hermann.

Thank you Brian! Today some progress at this project. After some research, i found out that this cabine is too low. I had to extend the height by 4mm and this meant that I had to make the whole cabin all over again. The good thing is, that this time I could avoid the small mistakes that i made at the first cabine. After cutting the new forms and glue them together, I continued with the interior. At rthe next pictures i show you the result after a lot of cutting and sanding of the seperate strips. Here under you can see the small space between the inner- and outer door. Later, after everything is sprayed in the blue colour, i can attach the 0,5mm thick transparent for the window. And together with the roof and topsleeper, what is not attached yet. Now it's time to finnish the roof with the same pattern at the inner side, and after this work the front plate can be attached. But more about this at the next update. To be continued! Hermann.

Awesome scratchbuild Sergey, love to see this kind of work! Hermann. Sometimes i have this too, than i have to start all over again with the topic. These days i copy the whole txt with image link, paste this to aword document, than refresh the MCM page and copy past everything back in the Reply section. I don't know why it happens, but this works the best for me....in case if it happen again. Hermann.

Nice build! For the window rubber you can use a black porcelain marker, recently I do this and it works perfectly and very easily. Hermann.