Sandboarder

Looks good!! You have captured some great details, those tail lights look 1:1!!

I would use black primer (Mr Hobby) and then the metallic black. Probably no need for a base coat but if you really want it black, use the darkest possible primer/base coat. I have use metallic blue over a light and dark base coat and could see the difference but your using metallic black so I am assuming you want it dark and black.

Awesome build!!! The silver really looks at home on the Lambo. Great details on your build. The tail lights look great and the black lip kit and boot spoiler are ? Also really enjoy the comments of other member with this kit. Like many of them I also need to build mine.

@Dpate Tamiya TS-58 light pearl blue

It depends on what the finish looks like and what you want it to look like. If it’s fairly smooth you can go straight to the polishing compounds. You can try to sand and flatten any orange peal and achieve a glass smooth surface to them polish. Do you want a factory style finish or a glassy smooth show car finish? This was Tamiya TS-13 clear, then I think this was a light 4000 west sand, Tamiya course then Tamiya fine compound.

Are you just using polishing compounds or do you plan the wet sand as well? If I’m using the 3000 and 4000 grits I’ll wait a few weeks. If it’s only the compounds then 7 days should be alright. Is the super clear in the rattle cans or airbrushed? I have air brushed super clear on small Gunpla parts and have had great results. I haven’t painted anything big enough with it to polish yet.

I try and wait a few weeks. Minimum 7 days to gas and harden before I will polish. I always use lacquer’s too btw.

What I do @peteski is use the same brand thinners. Tamiya Acrylic gets Tamiya acrylic thinner, Mr Colour acrylic lacquer get Mr Hobby Lacquer thinner and so on. Where most guys will cringe and why I didn’t post earlier is because I use the matching thinner to strip the paint too ? I don’t soak the body but wipe them with a damp cloth moisten with the correct thinner.

I think the confusion comes from water base acrylics and acrylic lacquer (or solvent based acrylic). All are marketed as acrylic yet shared very different properties and thinner requirements.

It will strip water based acrylic hobby paint, Tamiya, Vallejo etc. It kinda flakes off so a soft used brush may be required.

I’d be happy to take the HSV I already own up the Great Ocean road. LS3 with T56 trans is great to drive and sounds good enough. I wouldn’t mind a few modifications done to it but it is great how it is now.

That’s awesome!!! The body kit really embraces the C211’s boxiness. Seeing the rear under spoiler fitted is a unique bosozoku touch.

Purple box art will have them.

That stance is spot on Luke!!! Here’s on that I messed around with a while back. It has the chin spoiler but probably needs a big duck tail boot lip on it.

Looking forward to seeing the custom grill and headlights take shape. Good idea using the Laurel bits.

First time I saw them was 2007 touring with Mastodon. I missed them in 2011 but saw their final tour with Behemoth and Anthrax in 2018. All Slayer are the GOAT jokes aside Fear Factory are great live along with Dope/Static X. Another great live performance was Killer be Killed at Soundwave.

Tamiya TS-13 will not turn yellow.

Best concert I went to was Slayer!!! Second would have to be Slayer!!! Lucky enough to see them twice, seen a few good ones at Soundwave events and a few good punk shows.

After seeing Cool Hands Ken Mary Skyline I thought I’d share mine when it was mocked up. I pulled it down again after the last photo to paint a 2nd colour and that is where the build stalled.

Anti-static brush thingy. Yeah I got one but barely use it. If it’s cheap grab one. I only use it every now and then in between coats of paint. It will only remove some light dust. So it is good for a quick clean and to remove any static but that’s about it.

The hairspray is removed so it doesn’t really add an effect. Instead it aids in the paint removal/chipping. It doesn’t matter if you use hairspray, salt or a chipping fluid. Their purpose is to be dissolved by the water, lifting the paint to create a chipping effect. You can hand paint your chips with acrylic paint. I would just watch a few YouTube vids to see the techniques in action and the results. Here is a good and very informative video.

Never used hairspray. Ive used water and salt. The idea is to create a barrier so the top layer of paint won’t stick, therefore it will chip off. I think with the hairspray technique you use water to reactivate the hairspray and loosen the paint aiding in chipping.

Great job Pat!! The weathering on the trolley looks spot on ?

Nissan Cube on Advan wheels

Looking to try something new, something with less parts (then the Gundam’s) and hopefully that won’t require as much time to get a good result. So I bought these guys to try out. First thing to mention is they are 28mm scale!! They come from the UK and are manufactured by Games Workshop. This was my first test figure and that why the shield and weathering is different. Then the remain 9 were build and batch painted. Now they are officially under glass. The case is the same same as a 1/24 car display case.