Sandboarder

Great looking Batman figure!!! What paints did you use? The gold belt is amazing as well as the flat black

I am the same as Steve, everything I have collected I intend to build. Some will be OOB and others will gets the details and works. There is probably 2 kits from my childhood that I won’t build, but I did purchase 2 off each at the right price so I will still build a new version of them.

They are both the same type of lacquer paint.

Their confused as to why you started another thread. Your a highly active senior member of this forum (and well respected) why didn’t you just message, inbox, private message a moderator. Im sure you know who they are or you could just have picked the one who close the previous thread. Starting another thread leaves it open to be an entertaining saga. I think this conversation should be had with a moderator in private and not open to public discussion as the reactions could influence the moderator’s decision and seeing as so many did not care in the previous thread, I suspect nothing will change.

You see the 3 dots on the top right of a post? Click them and you’ll find a link to report a post

So is this “Someone reacted part 3” or are we just trying to report something to the mods? I’m guessing they had no idea that the reactions didn’t lock with the threads.

I think you’ll find most metallic paint are a semi-gloss and only come to life after a gloss coat. So I would think the LP-19 and LP-20 would be fine as they are. They will be reflective with the metallic flakes but won’t have a smooth surface (due to the flakes) I would also look into the Mr Colour range if you see them. Their a great lacquer paint and have a massive colour range. Another good paint is Gaianotes lacquers.

8 pages, I love this thread. Thread titled “Someone reacted” current posts are about Why would you react rather then comment which was discussed 3 pages again. Judging from the title every post here is subject to be the most reacted to on this forum. Someone smash that confused face as I know my humour won’t be conveyed with a monotone, emotionless comment.

While I don’t know the science of it all. The PS range is no good for plastic models. Here’s some interesting info from the web. ”Tamiya PS spray paint is a synthetic lacquer that cures in a short period of time. The spray paint is extremely useful for painting RC car & truck body shells. Each can contains 100ml of paint, which is enough to fully cover most body shells. Note: if you're painting an extra large shell such as a HPI Baja 5SC body shell we recommend using at least 2 cans. These paints are impervious to oil and fuels, so they can be safely used on gas-powered RC body shells. These spray paints were developed especially for decorating transparent polycarbonate bodies used in R/C car modeling. Each can contains 100ml of paint, which is the appropriate amount for finishing one complete model. Painting polycarbonate bodies is done from the inside of the body shell as opposed to the outside of a traditional plastic model. When spraying body from the inside, keep the can about 30cm from the surface. After curing apply another coat as necessary. These paints are impervious to oil and fuels, so they can be safely used on gas-powered R/C bodies. Warning: Never use these paints on plastic models.“ https://hobbiesdirect.com.au/Tamiya-PS-12-Silver-Polycarbanate-Spray-Paint-100ml-86012 I thought the last line was interesting. I have used the PS paint and in my honest opinion they are rubbish for our plastic model hobby.

That is the PS line and they are rubbish for us. The paint behaves like a rubber and is designed to flex with the RC body.

These came up when I searched for “bathtub buggy” only looks at the first 2 pages of topics as there are 73 pages to sort through.

You are right there. Maybe if you suspect that it’s trolling and not genuine confusing maybe stop and reflect on who you may have upset in conversation over the past weeks or months. I don’t know what else to say about that. You know what they say, sarcasm isn’t portrayed well in the monotone and emotionless internet and keyboard universe. I appreciate your honesty and thanked your last comment to show that. While I’m not worried about the anonymous aspect, I respect that some are bothered. I have more important things to worry about tho so I just hope to share my point of view on the matter. Let’s just keep the forum light hearted and keep the hobby fun.

Chill out. That wasn’t personal. Im just saying for example if someone asks about thinning ratios and the post saying 1:1 gets 5 likes and the post saying 1:6 gets confused faces. Then it’s obvious who had the best advice or if a member is ranting off topic, they might get confused face as the other members participating in the thread don’t understand why such comments are made. Not every post needs a reply, that’s just reality (You brought up that point). Your entitled to contribute to the threads topic but it’s rude to hi-jack a thread and get of topic as I have seen on many other forums (If you want to do that, then make you own thread). These little reaction faces are a polite way to express this without causing an public argument. Maybe you have upset someone and they trolling you for fun or people are generally confused by why you post something. I don’t know, I’m just expressing a voice of opinion and participating in the discussion. Again I’m talking in general, only the first line is directed at you Steve.

This is crazy. The best comment eg. the best tip or advice should receive the most likes. Therefore reducing the need to repeat the same comment flooding the thread and confusing the OP. If your advice is not the best or in the view of the general community it’ll get confused responses. It’s not that hard. Maybe if your getting confused, take a break from posting. As you said Steve you don’t need to respond to every post on here. There’s no need to keep a topic going just to have the last word when best answer has been given and is receiving members agreeing (liking it) Anonymous reactions are best. It avoids member getting a complex or feeling like their targeted. I mean we post on here to help and contribute to the forum, not to discourage people.

They do and when you build one of those kits you’ll understand why most kits don’t offer those features. Revell do a 57 Chevy with opening doors etc. challenging to built.

I just looked at that video and it is a great reference which shows examples of the techniques I mentioned. ?

Some times knowing what to look for helps a lot. You may not want to paint miniatures or Warhammer or use Citadel paints but their techniques can really help understand how acrylic paint works and flows. From what you said in the first post, I think if you dab your brush on a paper towel to absorb some moisture while leaving the pigment on the brush it’ll help to stop the excess mess. Similar to a technique called glazing but don’t thin the paint as much.

I would suggest watching a few “how to paint mini’s” videos on YouTube. That certainly blow my mind when it come to paint thinning, pigments, application, techniques and tip to thin paint without over loading the brush so you can place the colour pigments exactly where you want them. Also learnt about about brush care too.

Not sure how members lack of understanding of Patreon was going to help OP change his attitude and magically start reading comments and listening to those who bother to talk to him. I do know if you started and Patreon Steve you would make a lot of money as you have many fans on this forum. If Karen’s email gives OP peace of mind about his NOS testers paint, good on him. But let’s not pick on Karen, whoops I mean Jenn for her lack of air brushing experience, she probably saw the job listed on Craigslist, “Rustoleum office job, no product experience required”

Steve you are right, Preston isn’t reading our precious comment yet some of us are making quite large regular responses rather that stopping and letting this thread die. OP has his answer, for the hundredth time Paasche H will fix all of his issues. Time to stop flogging the horse and let this let die the end guys

Before you drop hundreds of dollars and hours investing in a airbrush. Go and try a can of Tamiya lacquer paint. Your obsessed with out dated products, blaming the products and then want to continue using them again. Read the comments because everyone is telling you really good advice and agreeing with each other so you know it’s facts. My bad that isn’t what you want to hear. I’ll go back to my Island before you decide to discriminate me because of my race or geographic location and then wish hard ship upon my children.

Dude I answered this in your other thread (for most lacquers) Maybe do a google search or watch some air brushing videos on YouTube where they use the same paints that you wish to use. Then you’ll learn what ratios etc you will need.

I use a cheap setup. Aldi compressor Hseng air brush and hose U-Star water trap I only use Lacquer’s at 15-20 psi and a ratio of 1 paint to 1.5 thinner. Works great for what I want. Which is small Gunpla stuff. I haven’t tried a car body yet but know it is capable of doing the job.

Warhammer or the Games Workshop range is as much about playing the game and the Lore behind each piece as it is about the model’s painting.

Here is the tapes I have used Only the thick 40mm tape left residue behind that was a problem and I’ve never melted or had paint soak through any of them. I will say that I have used 2 cans of Model Master sprays and do not like them. Great colours but very different to spray compared to Tamiya cans. Model Master stink and goes a long time to cure (go hard) Also the older the can, like out of production stuff. You need to expect them to be old and faulty. Most would decant the paint for air brushing to avoid any low pressure issues associated with old stock.