Sandboarder

I have no idea which size is correct for a street car but the Drag racing kits I’ve build have large ones. Easy way to think about 1/24 or 1/25 scale is 1mm equals 1 inch. I know not everyone uses the metric system but if oldnslow says 3” then the 3mm rod would be correct. Easier then working out 0.120 IMO

You’ll probably want to buy something like this from a hobby shop.

Don’t use flat clear before washes etc. Use a semi-gloss or gloss however ever it’s not needed. When fully dry lacquer paint is very tough. The enamel and acrylic thinners will not harm the base paint. Lacquer thinner will destroy you base paint. I assume your washes and filters etc will be enamel, water based acrylic or oil paints.

A really well thought out build plan with a great idea and a good kit to start with. You have been given some good advice but I’d like to mention a couple of things. Red plastic when primered and sprayed in silver generally won’t bleed tho. If the primer can’t stop it the silver paint will. Now I see you have AK Extreme metal which is Enamel paint. You have acrylic Tamiya paints. The X-25 clear green would be your final colour coat. Do not use TS-13 lacquer from a rattle can over this as it WILL melt/dissolve/damage the acrylic clear green. Stick with similar paint or do some good test spoons to avoid damaging your work.

Wow!! I see a lot of influences in this build. The custom grill and tail lights suit the car’s body perfectly. The fully shaved look and the black paint is a great choice.

PS Tamiya paint is like a rubberised strange paint designed to flex when applied to RC body’s. Which I believe are painted on the inside so getting a smooth surface isn’t as important as being able to flex and move. don’t use the PS line of paints IMO

Fantastic work so far!! Looks like you’ve taken advantage of the way these kits are designed. The body is looking great, the interior detailed up nicely and the stance and wheels will make it shine.

Mr Hobby sprays are also made for plastic models.

Some, only the weathering products and they are great. Very high quality and work very well, doing exactly what I expected of them.

Really enjoying this build. Great colour choices and that gold pearl looks amazing as it show of the body cures and highlights edge as it catches the light

Watch Lincoln Wright’s YouTube videos. He’s also called Painting on Plastic and has a great video about painting with rattle cans. Lots of cool tips that I use.

Clearly scale was doing some stuff that you might find interesting. https://www.modelbuilderswh.com/collections/detail-parts/products/gm-l53-efi-v8-engine-set-1-25th-scale Seems like more guys (on here) build old cars to 100% factory spec but hopefully someone else know if some more companies to help you. Also maybe the 3D printing guys can help you out.

Looking great so far

Wow!!! Amazing build that captures that low rider vibe while clearly being something else. The mis matched boot and silver/white/green panels all suit the style and turned out great.

This is an awesome build and you’ve detailed the process nicely!! Maybe instead of doing the usual ’rusty’ weathering you could go more dirty and grimy. Adds lots of diets and dusty details or most damp and moist effects like water or moss. Check out the Starship Filth paint as well. What scale of Gundam are you using the 1/144 HGs or 1/100 MGs? Also Wave make Wave Vernier option packs which might help make the most of your spare parts. I’ll be reading back through your other build threads soon. Great motivational work again ?

Good point! If the model builder displays clear knowledge of painting techniques and has modelling skills you should be able to tell if they know how wheels mount to a car. With a little bit of description about the model you should be able to tell why the model was crafted or nailed to the wall. A good modeller should be able to build something with an open mind and when the idea is finished be able to drawn the appreciation of their peers. As the peers we need to have an open mind and appreciate others creative approach to the hobby.

To be honest most of what you described is actually possible. Air bags will lay the chassis on the ground. Enough cutting and reworking of the body can achieve anything. Just take the Japanese VIP cars that scrap the road with static suspension (coil spring and shock), completely redesigned, custom and expensive parts to achieve the -15 degrees of camber. These cars are 100% driven in real life. It may not appeal to everyone but there is actually people doing it safely in the real world. So what’s people thoughts on these new cyber punk sci-fi space floating cars?? I can only assume because they’re not 1:1 they get hate like Gundam models? Personally I love anything that’s creative and has a purpose. Some models are just made to be enjoyed weather it’s because of a great build process or the fact it’s intended to be weathered, so the builder might learn/practice new painting process and techniques.

Decided that before I can lower the ride height that I really need to finish the interior first. So I made a start and tossed around some idea’s First decision, I’ll leave the back seat out. Then I thought seeing as the car is in Japan let’s do RHD. So I found some interior parts from a Aoshima 1970s Skyline to make fit. Better detailed steering wheels to Making the dash fit will test my skills but I think I can make it work. I think I have some Fumiji seats I can use as the Aoshima seemed to big. I’ll see what other details I can find and use.

Thanks guys!!! I had a quick look and the Nissan S20 in stock form makes about the same 119hp as the 67 Camaro’s 6 cylinder option. The S20 in race spec sounds amazing but I haven’t found horsepower figures yet. Ive mounted the Aoshima wheels. They have the best idea here, all wheels use a 2mm stud and the rubber bush. Their wheels are super interchangeable. Drill a 2mm hole Glue new stud add the bush wheels mounted!! I left it wide so I can trim it down to fit later on. The front wheels are mounted the same way.

Awesome build!!! The meaty tyres really suit the GT-R. The wheels compliment the Grey body well. Lots of nice details where they are needed while maintaining that clean build.

I probably should have said this will be a slow project. I had some more time so I done a proper mock up. Front suspension stuff is in, differential is in and here’s where the wheels would sit. I’ve had some C1 Models flairs sitting around for ages so here’s an opportunity to use them. No 2JZ engine here. It makes more sense to swap a more period correct motor into after the American motor was to expensive to repair in Japan. So I’ll use the S20 from this kit, which would have been at hone in a 1970s race car.

Use Mr Hobby 1500 white surfacer for your primer and try out Gaianotes white EX paint. Thin both with Mr Hobby Mr Levelling thinner ?

Agreed!! I have 2 sets of God Hand nipper and their absolutely amazing. My blue 120s are the sharpest best cutting nippers I’ve used. I have some red 120s for rough cutting and other cutting duty’s. These are worth the money!!

Thanks for the positive feedback guys!!! I can do stupidlong n tall exhausts if that want we want to see ? Was playing around with some 1970s Skyline flairs. I’m not will to shorten the diff so I need to look at other options. Here’s the tyre comparison and another mock up.

So is this going to be a Work in Progress thread and document your build and complaints? Or is this just going to be another dead thread because it just seems like bait and everyone’s taken the bait and wants to point out why the kit is good if you want to put in the extra work.