Sandboarder

Here’s my attempt. https://i.imgur.com/DE9PvvL.jpg https://i.imgur.com/VCwTKKL.jpg I completely chopped up the Drag chassis Still a WIP and probably won’t review it any time soon

I haven’t seen that before. What is the minimum width?? I believe 2 blades taped together is 1mm

Awesome work on the chassis!!

I think I saw Moebius has a F-truck ramp truck coming. I can not remember where I saw it to tho

Exactly what I was going to say. Tamiya and Mr Hobby are lacquer primers design to be plastic safe. I have used them for years with no issues. I do prefer the Mr Hobby

Awesome display and set up!! I’m a big of the UC 0079 series. Awesome job with the SD Zaku 1 conversion and taking the effort to clean up the power pipes on the legs. As Pete said the LEDs are a sweet touch ?

Love it!! The slicks on the rear really set it off and make it look mean

While you do build your models to your highest possible standard to last a generation that’s not the case for everyone. Since this virus has hit and cause lockdowns there are a lot of new builders on the hobby. Therefore I believe we need to help them but not confuse them. These builders may only build a few kits and pick up stuff like the Motolow pens and that’s fine. You have already proven me right. I can’t buy Testor’s products in a Australia so I used Tamiya and Mr Hobby a lot. A simple exercise as storing paints can make them last 30 years for you but in my climate it’s more like 10 years. Therefore EVERY body’s hobby experience is different. Let’s just stick to answering the original posted questions and keep all discussion relevant to there (OP’s) topic and hobby needs. I’m sick of reading off topic chat that IMO belongs on Facebook. We are a forum, essentially a library of knowledge with decades of experience. Let’s not ruin that in recent times as one day someone will search and find these threads looking for help only to irrelevant discussion.

But you are blessed to live in America, I have to deal to Australia’s dry dessert heat. Molotow pens have a short shelf life. The used product will depend on how it’s handled and stored. It seems Motolow is an entry level product. Most seasoned build will use BMF and Motolow for small dash details etc. Combine its use with a protective display case and store that out of the sun and in a cool spot, it should last until the builder has lost interest in that model. Id like to see the E7 chrome sealer used to protect chrome paints, both Motolow and Aclad.

If it’s stored properly. I’ve bought brand new factory sealed jars that have been in the sun and dried out. The heat does the damage. Also after 15 years a lot of paint jars are solid. I’ve been doing this hobby for a while. Store your paints in a cool dark place.

No different to to old jars of paint going hard. Everything has a shelf life. I have several that I don’t consider a waste of money.

Go back and read the first post tho. Why doesn’t my Motolow pen work as good as the day I got it. Answer it’s expired, the chemicals have gone off. The thread owner isn’t spending any money, just asking a question. The End

No ones confused by what you said but you also haven’t helped at all. The reason it’s gone off after 12 months or longer is due to a chemical reaction. It’s gassed out or lost it’s effectiveness. As for durability once it’s had its reaction and cured it’s still affected by stuff like weather and oils (finger prints) no different to when your decals or clear coats turn yellow. Either try and seal it or accept it’ll age just like the grey hairs on my head. Don’t like Motolow don’t use it. Don’t rubbish it in a thread when someone asks for advice on a product you personally don’t like. Yeah Motolow is a graffiti art marker company sold in urban streetware stores. I’m sure you use plenty of products that aren’t design for this hobby but work just as well.

I was only saying it’s possible to buy everything including the file and start printing. With those skills the prints will speak for themselves and you would quickly want to learn to scale and CAD your own files. I have seen plenty of builders who have great understanding of the technology and choose to only buy files and print miniatures to paint and game with. I also know people who spend the time to draw up their own unique files and upload them for sale, not for profit but to ensure they can keep doing CAD designs as that’s the part they enjoy. When your printing and testing your own creations for the perfect print there will be reject prints involved and they cost money.

Nissan SR20, 320, L24 and RB26. Toyota’s 4A-GE and 2JZ

Actually no. You can buy other people designs and files from a site like Cults and then use them on your printer. Obviously learning to create drawings and the files will help a lot.

@Plumcrazy Preston I shared a video in your last threads showing how to perfectly and practically weigh paint for mixing and thinning and you ignored me. @StevenGuthmiller and I even discussed it, so I know my post wasn’t invisible. You want help but you don’t keep an open mind. Your not open to helpful ideas and suggestions. I believe you are going to have to learn the hard way and probably won’t enjoy the hobby because you are have already made up your mind.

Bummer. I thought if you can heat it up, that’s be a prefect spot. I do everything in the shed but I’m always a hostage to the weather.

Can you paint in the garage?

Not true. Nobody weights their paint as OP has suggested. Their is no need to know the weight until your mixing it on scales. Just skip to 3:50 it’s the best video I could find in a short time. Yes he’s talking about custom colours but he does the paint to thinner mixes like this too

So spend a few dollars on primer. It’s cheap insurance. Studio G on YouTube weighs his paint if you care to look him up and watch his videos. Very useful considering his paint expensive kits.

Awesome build!!! The black paint job looks great but my favourite is how you’ve detailed and the paint choice for the engine bay.

Larger diameter wheels use lower profile tires. Therefore the overall diameter or circumference is actually the same size when fitted correctly. So they won’t be taller. Of course that’s in real life 1:1 not 1:24

It’s got nothing to do with standards. Follow that YouTube video 100% and paint some spoons. Paint on a hot day, a cold day, a humid day, in the morning and in the evening. You will get a different result every time. Mix your paint 1:1 and spray your spoons from 3, 4, 5 and 6 inches away. You will get different results. You might need the paint thinner at a certain distance. Set your compressor PSI and then you’ll realise if you close and too thin and to high in PSI your paint will be poor. Now change your needle size and figure out an air leak in the line/airbrush. Rub lacquer thinner on the runners/spures/tree. Even cut them up and soak them in the thinner and see if they get damaged. Again primer protects the plastic but I believe I read your not planning to use primer. There is so many variables when painting you can’t expect a post on here to give the the perfect paint job without you practicing a lot. This is an expensive hobby and seriously you haven’t scratched the surface of what people spend to enjoy their hobby. Buy some extra paint and thinner and go get practicing on some spoons, Coke bottle or what ever plastic you have.

Wow! You do realise you need to practice and learn new skills before you can master them in life? I 100% agree with Peteski and your attitude towards the forums advice. Dont cry over a cheap $50 truck kit. Other members are spending up to $800+ dollars on airbrushes, they own 10 or more different airbrushes and a few compressors. I have a few $150-200 Miniatures to paint and a few $400 PG Gundam kits. Go and buy some spoons and practice as much as possible, try different settings, different weather conditions etc.