Sandboarder

So then you have the acrylics and enamels with the X only code. (The F means flat) All soild color TS cans, the metallics require a clear coat (TS-13) Im not familiar with their LP line but the description should say weather it’s gloss, metallic or flat. Avoid the PS cans as they are designed for RC cars and to flex without cracking.

What type of Tamiya paint? They do about 6-7 different types in the range XF acrylics are flat while the AS series are flat or semi gloss. There is enamel, LP lacquer and rattle can lacquer.

Leveler is retarder. It slow down the drying time to allow the paint to level and dry smooth. I’ve noticed that is why enamel paints are so popular here. The slow drying time allows them to level and dry really smooth.

So your saying this Tamiya paint is a hybrid? Learn something new every day.

You can buy washes for weathering or make your own by really thinning your paint down. Will need to experiment but say 1:6 so 1 drop of paint and 6 drops of thinner. So when you apply the wash it only tints the parts but the colour will pool in the recesses. I only had a quick search but this one shows them making a blue wash with oil paints. Of course acrylics work great as well. http://www.leagueofpainters.com/?p=929

Paint it with a brush. Then wash it with a thinned down black or dark brown. The wash colour will pool in the recesses and hide small imperfections in the paint. Could also use dry brushing to pick out raise details.

I normally just blow air to remove dust (airbrush or from mouth) I only wash after sanding or polishing if I need to remove particles. You could spray your clear coat 30 minutes after your last colour coat depending on paint thickness and it it’s the same paint that’s flashed off (normally won’t taken more then a few minutes) That would reduce the time/chance that dust has to settle on your model.

I also think it because of the washing. Either step this step or shoot the clear coat closer to the last colour coat.

To achieve a “Candy” appearance you want a metallic base and a clear colour coat. Experiment with base coats such as chrome, high metallic flake silver or gold. Here is an example with Mr Colour silver and Mr Colour clear colours air brushed but they have clear colours in rattle cans too.

It would depend on what thinners are used. The Gunpla guys like to use cigarette light fuel. You could always seal your enamel paint with acrylic before using the panel line accent. I normally used Tayima rattle cans, so lacquer paint and have experimented with flat and gloss finishes. The capillary action you want to help it flow along the panel lines needs a smooth, gloss finish.

I have used it a lot. It works best over Lacquer or Acrylic paints and gloss finishes. Any clean up when using Enamel on Enamel will result in damaged paint. Especially seeing as that’s what is in the panel line bottle is basically thinned enamel paint, imagine 1:5 paint:thinner and putting that on your fresh Enamel paint job. For panel lining Enamel base paints use thinned down oil paint. Mr Hobby do the Mr Weathering range or just mix your own with craft store oil paint and odourless thinner. As oils take longer to dry you can clean up with a Q tip before they are dry. No extra thinner required.

Now the hard part. Waiting or avoiding the “dodgy” foil hoping it sells out so stock can restock with the good, newest stock. Great news tho!! Thanks for sharing

Most of mine are in cupboards inside of a shed. They are complete out of the sun light and it gets hot here in Australia. If you have something rare or a lot of decals then I would keep those inside the house but everything else I have is fine.

I always use TS-13 I apply clear after a few days or a week. (I do interior or chassis work while I wait) With my clear coat I do a light mist coat, wait 3-5 minutes for it to flash off and then lay my final coat of clear.

My assumption would be the clear coat was too heavy. The wet clear coat reactivated the base coats (did you spray black over top of pure white) and have melted or dissolved it. Kinda like spilling some lacquer thinner on the edges of the black paint. I usually wait a week or more for this reason as the previous coats still gas (rattle cans) and dry/harden fully.

I just use some more Tamiya tape and dab it one the residue. The residue should be pick up and stick, to the sticky side of the tape. This is the same technique I use to remove pricing stickers off CDs I buy

A new one GR86 I don’t like sharing mock ups without the chassis and suspension fitted but I just had to check out the new 86

@69NovaYenko please share. I haven’t bought the Mosou paint but I do find it fascinating. Always trying to find new and interesting ways to make my builds fun or interesting.

So like my recommendation.......

You might be better with this kit

My current cars have independent 4 wheel ABS brakes. I have used them and could feel the different from 90s ABS braking systems. Most definitely a great safety feature for modern street cars to have. As for parallel parking that is a regular thing where I am from.

Not really what your looking for but it’s black and it definitely isn’t shiny, Musou Black. Ive just been leaving on flat black parts in Mr Hobby 1500 primer/surfacer. It has the right look for what I’m doing with interiors and chassis.

Yes the Parts Box is Australian, located in South Australia to be exact. My experience was in store about 8-10 when I lived near by. The business is run by good people, send them a email.