Bills72sj

I have something simpler. A set of wheels to match the ones on my 1:1. I will PM you to see if you want pics and dimensions.

Mmmm. That has some potential.

Thank you Larry and Brian. ?

Thank you Larry and Jeff, ?

Since you are starting, I would go with water based acrylics. Water clean up and LOTS of colors available. I cannot speak to their adhesion to plastic but if it was an issue, I am sure it would have brought up as a topic in the past. I am still using decanted lacquers and enamels simply because of all the inventory I have. Be advised, this route can give good results but it is a hassle. Buy some white plastic spoons from the Dollar store and practice shooting them with your air brush. Experiment with different colors and types of rattle can primer. Practice with different air pressures, spraying distances, light coats, heavy coats, clear coats etc until you start to get the "feel" for the best results. Start with whatever paints fit your budget. Youtube Barbatos Rex has a lot of good content. I have learned a bit from him. Also get a bottle of Pledge floor polish. It is the most forgiving and least reactive clear coat out there. One bottle will last you for YEARS. Good luck.

Thanks Doug. Yes I have a lot of time invested but they turned out as well as I envisioned. They actually kind of save space. I can park One semi truck and and AND 5 cars on about as much space as 4 cars would take.

It is finally done (except for the suzie coils).

Nice effort!

My 2nd AMT KW is finished. It was started 16 years ago but it is done now. It is mated with an auto transporter trailer that has been slightly modified. Below is the WIP thread.

My two "American MuscleCar Transporters" are finally both done. I started these 16 years ago. Back then, I got he trailers and the KW T600 done. The Canepa body was painted and the engine assembled but nothing else. When I got a few other rigs and trailers done these last couple of years, I found my 2nd trailer needed a tractor. The Canepa build stalled when I got the idea to LED light it AFTER it was painted. I had the switches, blinker circuit and battery mounted into the sleeper but I just lost the motivation to knock out all the installed lights to add in LEDs. The Canepa body gave me more fitment issues than I remember with the T600. Fortunately I was warned and tackled them as they arose. Here they are for you viewing pleasure.

Nice combination.

I use the sandpaper taped to the bench method too. Since I have a mini-lathe, I may experiment using it.

Your woodgrain looks very well done. Silver is a good look on that body. I did my GTX in gold with a tad bit more tire.

Dusty, I do need to eventually switch up paints. Right now I have two drawers full of rattle can paints. I am giving up on the Duplicolor cans. The paint has adhesion problems over Tamiya primer and is nearly $15 a can. I have recently switched to Mr Hobby primer. I like how smooth it lays down. Regarding a tanked compressor, I have looked into it a little bit. My existing compressor seems to keep up just fine. At this point however, I simply do not have the space for one. (I have also run out of space for kits)

I have one of these kits in the stash. Thanks for the heads up on the issues.

It might be time to try and overcoat the decals individually with Testors #9200 Decal Bonder. I use it on the decals I make on my printer. It takes a light mist coat, a 2-3 minute wait, and then the thinnest fully wet coat you can shoot. I let it dry 24 hours. I trim cut the VERY close to the edge of the artwork. They get applied with warm water and a drop of Dawn soap. I use white vinegar on the paint for setting as it is way cheaper than the tiny bottles of hobby setting solutions. I have been able the move them around for 2-3 minutes and even rewet them after setting in the wrong place. The clear bonder lets me tug them around quite a bit without tearing. I use cotton swabs to both set the center of the decal outwards and sop up the water. I just laid some decals I printed 15 years ago over a whole bunch of rivets and opening doors. Both sides went on perfectly.

Yes, Nice progress. I also agree with a low stress build once in awhile. I did a 71 Mustang diecast kit after being in a slump for awhile.

That looks sweet! Makes me want to move my rebuilder up in the queue.

I have never used paper. I use 2" wide genuine blue 3M masking tape and ziplock bags. Plastic bags air virtually air tight, do not care about paint and have no adhesives.

For correct positioning, the rubber snubber tips should be mounted right under the front leaf spring eye. Here are some 3 printed ones I got on Shapeways.

It does! I think I will build mine this way as well.

Nice fab work. I have learned that it is very time consuming. Following.

Finally got the chassis finished. Warped rails and all. Body on coming soon.

It certainly looks like a fun to build project. Sometimes it is not all about the accuracy. Artistic license is why I enjoy this hobby.

Worked on back dating the front bumper/grille to a 74. Carved out the vertical grilles while keeping the frame. Drilled out and added amber turn signals. Made upper grilles from a 69 Olds donor grille. Made lower grille frame from evergreen stock. Made lower grilles from incorrect 71 Charger pieces that come in a Dukes of Hazzard Charger. Masked and painted rub strip with MM Black Chrome Trim. The promo chrome got a little abused with all the handling but it is presentable.