Jon Cole

I like it... but then again, as a car slut I like most of 'em. That is how I would have built it. Wheels and stance are good. Yeah, the trunk could have been shortened in length, but with a lot more work. That would have been preferrable to lengthening the roof tho.

Hey... I like it! Just the right amount of weathering. You did it right by opening that grille.

Webster's definition of irony!

It's a model, so the builder/owner can enter it if they want. Of course, temper that against the fact that most, if not any and all contest judges are not going to be fooled. No contest judge is going to give a pre-painted metal model high marks for finish, if they know it was painted in a factory. It's a 'checks & balances' situation. Even the best model from one of the 'Mints' won't get high grades for finish, no matter how it looks, if they know it was pre-painted. At least that's how it should be imho.

Custom van! Nice chop & section! The wheel/tire size is a little much for my taste, but it's not my model! Hope you keep on truckin' (*>~groan!~<*) with this build.

Jerry, thanks! I am going to print that out. I miss my PrintMaster Deluxe program, so I don't make my own calandars any more... and your page rocks!

OK, I know little about R/C cars, but I do know most everything on FeeBay is "RARE" and "MINT". These sellers need to know, just because they say so, doesn't mean it's true. Buyer beware.

I really like BMF. It's the difference between building a toy, vs. a scale model. Trimming it along an edge can be tricky, but every now and then, when doing a long thin trim with parrallel edges such as a side moulding, I just cut a length to width, and apply it like a pinstripe tape.

Nice retractable! Is the Gunze kit the 1/32 I remember?

Both nice! Please share more pics of each... especially that Caddy!

If all it needs to be finished is the rear bumper, then.... why didn't you just finish it? Nice model, but I never quite understood why we never add that one last piece. And it certainly isn't just you!

Tom, that 442 just oozes style! Everything just looks right together. Good job!

I'm going with the first impression... real.

Put a wing on the back! Just because you can!

A Ford Fairmont? I do recall a cartoon... I think it was in the now defunct 'Car Modeler' magazine. Guy opens up a model kit labeled "Ford Fairmont". Out comes two blocks... one long one for the body, the other shorter for the greenhouse. A puzzled look from the builder.

A NEW HERO HAS EMERGED!

Peter, this rocks! Giving the R8 the Badass treatment... yes!

Classic, memorable, iconic... Ford Model T 1932 Ford 3-window 1940 Ford Coupe 1949 Mercury 1955 Mercedes-Benz 300SL 1955 Chevy Cameo Pickup 1956 Ford F100 Pickup 1957 Chevy 1959 Cadillac Eldorado Cpe/Conv 1963 Corvette Stingray Coupe 1965 Shelby Mustang 1969 Camaro 1969 Mustang Mach I 2010 Camaro Ferrari 308 GTS Ferrari Testa Rossa Lamborghini Countach Cobra 427 Porsche 911 VW Beetle Jeep CJ

These drill bits we use are, imho, way too small and fragile to ever use in a power anything. Use a hand twist drill only. You will have more control, and little if any melting.

I use wooden stirring sticks; have been from back in the days when you could get them for stirring coffee. Now I buy a bag of 100 at Michaels. I like the feel of sinking the stick in the paint... too much resistance means the paint is shot.

I know several people just like that.

Many of us have had difficulty using their product with the exception of their original Chrome BMF. Just beware if you have a problem getting the black BMF to stick, try instead to spray a section of a chrome BMF sheet with your favorite satin black paint.

Go on to Google. Type in "Catapillar Yellow". It comes up with a bunch of brands that offer Catapillar Yellow.

I have been told that the caster that makes it is in Australia.

With the bit still in my handle, I just squeeze on the bit between my finger & thumb, then twist the handle backward. As the bit backs out of your digits, the plastic comes right off.