70 Sting

? everything Zippi said plus nice chrome work too.

About the best C3 I’ve ever seen. ?

Well that’s pretty much perfect! ???

Body, engine bay and interior… has it all. ? Engine hood is the common issue that has kept me away.

It’s all been said above! ?? Did you use Bare Metal Foil on some of the trim?

Excellent work. Beautiful paint job! ?

Colour looks great. Nice job on the engine as well. ?

Awesome build and photography…as usual. ?

Thank you kindly Trevor and Dann. It was a fun little build (minus body - chassis fitting).

What a great build. Awesome interior with the wood grain steering well. Nice engine too.

Thanks for sharing your process Rich. I’m going to give it a try on my next build. ? Yes, Mr. Color GX100 is very good - quite thick though.

That’s a couple hundred bucks worth of paint… any chance he’s looking for a new friend? ;^) I’ve been using MCLT as well. Have you tried Tamiya’s thinner with retarder? I’m not sure if there’s a difference between the two. They must call MCLT ‘Unicornn Tears’ for a reason.If I read you correctly, you’re adding more thinner to subsequent coats of LP Clear? How many coats do you typically apply and how does the ratio vary? I have tried TS-29 as well… also very good and more economical. That Testors paint will probably last forever. I recall seeing or reading about a modeller who opened an unused square bottle of Testors enamel that sat for over 20 years… still applied perfectly.

Thank you sir. And thanks for shedding some light on the wheel issue. I did a little looking around and found gaps to varying degrees on other builds as well. Still, doesn’t detract too much from a pretty cool kit. ?

A car that should be in everyone’s collection. Nicely done sir.

Incredible work. The trim, paint and finish, wheels… wow!

Thanks bud. I enjoyed working on this one. It certainly is a unique vehicle… like a spaceship on wheels. :^)

Hey @Lobo2me, no, the tire cannot be seen. As a result, I only gave it a little attention. The kit does come with an extra set of rims that match the spare.

Thanks for the information @espo. I agree, my rendition may be a little glossy compared to the real car.

You’re too kind. :^)

:^) Yes, it’s the Hasegawa kit. I was looking on Scalemates and was surprised to see how many manufacturers have made versions of the Stratos.

Thanks Dood. I think one of the best parts of this hobby is the sharing of information. Yes, it’s a Hasegawa kit (the dismembered girl figure remains in the box ?) https://www.scalemates.com/kits/hasegawa-20543-lancia-stratos-hf-stradale--1378256

Thanks Rich. The instructions give you the paint mix ratio . The photos above are pretty close to how the model looks in person. Internal processors in cameras don’t always reproduce colours with 100% accuracy. I am no a paint expert by any stretch of the imagination. My favourite paints to apply are AK Interactive Xtreme Metalizers because they cover beautifully with thin coats at low air pressure. The biggest drawback for me is that they are enamel based and don’t like to be messed with afterwards. Regarding Tamiya LP: I think they’re pretty great. I’ve been making the transition from their Acrylic line to Lacquer. Biggest hurdle for me is backing off with my heavy trigger finger. You could argue that their LP-5 Semi Gloss Black is the very best out there. How has your experience been with them? This is the kit: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/hasegawa-20543-lancia-stratos-hf-stradale--1378256 Cheers

Very sharp. Nice finish. ?

Stick a fork in it, she's done. Finished and photographed this week. The body was painted with a 50-50 mix of Tamiya LP-21 Italian Red and LP-51 Pure Orange. The interior is flat black with custom mixed tan coloured seats. The carpeting was red embossing powder but it looked kinda magenta-pink so I painted over it with LP21. The wheels are Tamiya X-31 Titanium Gold tinted with X-7 Red. What I Learned: 1. 99% of the parts fit very well including the glass. 2. Super tight fit of the body to chassis. The instructions tell you that once attached it will be very difficult to remove. The dashboard and door panels are attached to the body, not the chassis on this kit. I broke the dashboard off during final assembly. See #3 3. Black CA glue to the rescue. There is a rubber content to the glue which allows for some flexibility when parts are under strain as with this kit. 4. There are 2 mounting holes inside the front end of the body where matching pins on the chassis frame are inserted first. The rear end is attached last. You really have to pull the body sides apart to get chassis in. There didn't seem to be any obvious connection points in the rear. See #5 5. Pretty sure I got all the parts snugged down and the chassis pushed up and in all the way, however parts of the frame in front of the rear wheels stick out below the body. In fact, I'm not convinced the wheels are the correct hight or perfectly centred in the wheel wells. It remain a mystery wrapped up in an enigma. :^] Have a great weekend!

… and it shows!! Stunning work. That engine in incredible.