Casey

David, if you could measure and post the inner and outer tire and out wheel measurements when you hav e chance, it would be much appreciated. This is the first "modern" 1/12 scale kit with modern wheels and tires from Revell, so there may be many uses for the rolling stock. The build is looking great so far. Will you be adding working sequential turn signal lights, too?

Generally, I've found parts from both scales do not swap well and look correct. Things such as wheels, which come in various diameters/sizes can be made to work, since a 16" wheel in 1/18 will look like a 14" or 15" wheel in 1/16 scale, but they will almost always requires significant modification to look right in a different scale.

It's only funny because it's so true.

BT, DT. Glad to see you finally got your hands on one, Chuck.

The Hudson and 300 are old news, Art. Kindly spill the beans regarding Moebius' next release. Seriously, the Hudson looks fantastic.

And they've released it with "new" box art at least four different times. The kit is what it is, and considering it's age, it's not horrible. I was just deeply disappointed by the wheels and rear slicks as there are so few vintage 1/16 speed parts available in kit form, especially pie crust slicks.

Not so accurate. Concerning new tooling and modifying old tooling at Revell, Inc., 1/24 scale is pretty much dead. I think the '70 Road Runner and '70 Mustang kits were the last serious investment in re-tooling a 1/24 scale ex-Monogram musclecar kits, and that's probably for the best. 1/25 scale is the standard, and I'd rather see a new 1/25 Superbird tool than see Revell invest any more money in updating any of its 1/24 scale ex-Monogram kits-- '70 and '71 'Cudas, '70 Superbird, '70 Challenger, etc. As Dave touched upon, the JoHan body is well done, but the rest of the kit is not very good. Yes, you can combine the AMT/Ertl '68-'70 Mopar B-body chassis and engine parts with the JoHan body for a "best possible" combination, but the '70 Coronet's interior tub is still too shallow, too outdated, and isn't a good fit for the JoHan body. Long story short, a new tool is needed, as a sibling to the Revell 1/25 '69 Dodge Daytona.

Not if you're looking to build an accurate '70 Superbird. The six-slot "Cop Car" wheels didn't come out until the mid seventies.

Did the kit include three circular decals, or only two? IIRC, the NASCAR cars didn't use the left headlight door decal like the street Superbirds did. I would be surprised if Warner Brothers, Inc. allowed Revell to reproduce the likeness of the Road Runner for the last re-issue of the Petty Superbird.

Mold seams and joints seem to be the most common issue not addressed. It does take a bit of time sand everything smooth and even on both sides of the mold line/joint, but the results speak for themselves. I think it's one of those things people dislike doing, so 75% of builders don't bother or only attend to the seams which are readily visible, leaving the seams on the exhaust system, the edges of the leaf springs, and the rearend.

I agree 100%, but you can buy the needed items individually instead, using Alumilite's High Strength 3 mold rubber (softer and more flexible than the Quick Set which comes in the kit), Amazing Casting Resin (3-5 minutes work time), etc. I've found Alumilite's resin is more forgiving when measuring amounts, but Smooth On products will still give you good results. As Mark suggested, keep it simple with one part molds.

Most large diameter 1/18 scale wheels will scale out to about 19"-20" in 1/16 scale, but the tires are usually not very accurate. Try looking at R/C cars and the Muscle Machines type caricature vehicles for larger diameter wheels and tires, too.

Agreed, and is $250 really a crazy price for a low-production, high-quality kit? I don't think so.

I did the same when I built an A12 Super Bee. The rear steel wheels from the Revell '64 T-bolt kit are a perfect fit inside the Goodyear Steel Belted Radial tires included with the Monogram (now Revell) '69 Super Bee kit, since both the wheels and tires are 15"...and the T-bolt kit "feels" a lot closer to 1/24 scale than 1/25 scale to me. Now here's the rub on the T-bolt's rear wheels. In order to have the space between the spokes open, you need to sand down the backs of the wheels, but once you sand enough material away, the four spokes become very, very thin.

I only see one transfer case, and it's the Ford-only type, with the driveshaft on the driver's side. Does anyone make a GM/Chrysler NP style transfer case? Maybe something from the MPC kits? I don't recall how good (or bad) the transfer case was in the AMT/MPC '84 GMX 4x4, but I doubt it was all that nice. Maybe something from the MPC '72-'80 Dodge 4x4 kits is better?

I thought the Revell Matt & Debbie Hay Pro Street T-bird kit shares most of its parts with the Revell Lincoln LSC kit? I'm sure some body parts are shared with the newest Bob Glidden P/S kit, and maybe the main chassis, but the engine was a 351 IIRC. I don't see the color issue being a big deal. We all should know how to prevent bleed through after being members here for a few weeks, and as stated above, not everyone paints thier models.

This kit was originally tooled up by Renwal, then Revell acquired the tooling when they acquired Renwal. I think the Renwal version had a red box art car, but it's been a while since I've seen one.

The body, chassis, and engines are well done especially the hopped up Flathead. The wheels and tires, however, are a huge disappointment IMHO. The front tires are way too short, the wheel centercaps are huge, and the backsides of the slicks are devoid of sidewalls.

I assumed the yellow-ish object in the picture was mold rubber, but if not, and it's actually hardened resin...what Mark said.

Which brand/type of clay are you using? Which brand/type of mold rubber are you using? (appear to be Alumilite Quick Set?) As long as you use the non-hardening, modelling type clay you should be fine. I use whatever Michael's had, but don't recall the brand. Try to make the clay base as smooth as possible before setting your part in it, or pouring any rubber. The smoother it is, the fewer nooks an crannies there will be for the rubber to flow into. I use 91% isopropyl alcohol for cleaning molds and cleaning off excess clay, but I try to minimize undercuts and rough edge where the rubber can flow and become trapped once hard. Did I mention smooth is good? I'm not sure what type of container/enclosure you're using, but that's also an important consideration. I prfer to use use solid things suach as LEGO block, plastic cups and containers, etc., rather than an enclosure built with clay walls. Again, it goes back to the "smoother is better" principle, and makes cleanup a snap.

What Tim said. Why this has yet to be done is a mystery to me, but we will patiently wait for Revell to announce one. I agree the MPC/AMT and Johan bodies are much more accurate, but the chassis and engine details in both are inferior to the Revell '70 AAR...and the Revell chassis and engine details aren't that great by currrent standards. Which brings us back to the need/desire for an all-new '70 'Cuda with accurate everything.

You can pick up a Big Tub from Hobby Lobby (or from their online store) for $75 shipped this week, and that kit will supply the SBC as well as lots of other parts. Pick up a re-issued Big Deuce for $100 and you're mostly set.

I agree 100%. Much crisper detail-wise. Maybe they came from the Revell Royal Pontiac '66 GTO kit?

A completed items search on eBay will give you a good idea for the value, if one has ended in the last two weeks. It's worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it, but for a ballpark figure I'd say $40 or more.

Small world. I used to fill up at the Clark station (still there, BTW) on Port Washington & Donges Bay weekly when I worked just down the road. There is a Clark staion just down the road from me, but it appears to be a converted or newer buidling, too. I may have to check out the station on Indiana Ave & 19th Street in Sheboygan, WI to see if that one it still there.