Casey

I agree, and you've done a great job breaking in the rear slicks. The Mysterion is gone forever. In on of the Ed Roth books the last owner mentioned he cut the frame up since it had cracked due to hydrogen embrittlement after chroming. At least the Orbitron was found in Mexico and is now restored.

Technically, it will be a 2'n'1 Special Edition release, so it may also have the RB big block engine. I'm guessing the hoodscoop from the '68 Charger (first used on the Dick Landy Charger kit?) will be included with the Hemi Dart, too.

Both of my albums loaded just fine.

They would if they bought it used from a town/city/village. The guy across the street from me does just that, and has a '70s Dodge Pickup cab on a shortened (well, bobbed, technically) frame he uses as a plow truck which used to be an ambulance and rescue truck. The blade looks very realistic with the rust pits. It's interseting to see how far snow plowing technology has come in 30 years.

While I agree 100% with your suggestions, Dave, I can't help but think this kit is a Catch 22 of sorts for Revell. Do they do it as correctly as possible (including a new body with the correct rear wheel arches), or close enough? I think the latter, at least judging by the picture Revell has been using to promote this kit: And seriously, has ANY kit EVER included a 4-speed hump? Can you imagine the box top teaser- "Includes both 727 and A-833 transmissions, with a correct 4-speed hump for the A-833. It looks like it's going to wear a set of Cragar S/S wheels, too. I wonder if they're going to use the Hemi and related drag parts from the '67 GTX/Coronet R/T/'68 Charger in this kit, too...

So....has the Revell '57 hit store shelves yet? I really haven't heard any buzz about this one on the forum. I wonder if "Decal with factory stock markings..." means the trim insert will be done with a decal, allowing for a 210 as suggested above?

I think it's easier to polish a clear coat than a color coat, plus you have some extra layers to protect against burn-through while wet sanding. It will depend upon how smooth the color coats are, but I would suggest you give the color coat a light, wet scuff sanding before applying the clear. Again, which grit to use depends upon the existing smoothness, but I would start with at least 1000 if your paint isn't badly orange-peeled.

Make your wants known here in the "Wanted" section first. There are lots of helpful people here. eBay is another option and probably has whatever you're looking for. Any local model car/collectibles swap meets in your area? I do recall an AMT '75-ish pickup and the ex-Monogram mid-'70s 4x4 pickup were re-issued a few (like four or five) years ago, so those should be a bit easier to find. The AMT Ford Courier re-issue is easy to find if you're into old Ford mini-trucks.

That BBC is looking good so far, and hopefully the Dodge'll get back on track. It's a shame the MPC/AMT GMC "Fall Guy" 4x4 is the only kit which comes with a Fleetside bed as they better than the stepside bed IMO.

It's definitely very green so far, but it's looking good. Which kit supplied those Keystone wheels, and which tires are you using with them?

Thanks for the advice. Once the hood is re-primed, I'll bust out the FM3 and lay it over the white primer.

...or maybe a set of '71 Vega seats, which, IIRC, are the same as used in the Camaros.

I'm nearing the end of bodywork, and all imperfections have been addressed. I've applied at least four coats of Dupli-Color White sandable lacquer primer and will sand it one last time (probably using 600 or 800 grit) before I add the next layer...which brings me to my question. The color coat is going to be Moulin Rogue/Panther Pink Testors lacquer, so I would like to spray it over the white primer (and probably will), but I'm unsure if I should apply a sealer coat before I shoot the pink lacquer. Adding to my apprehension is the grey color of the Dupli-Color lacquer primer sealer I would use. Suggestions?

The 1/25th scale roof on a 1/24th scale body does not work well IMHO.

I suggest you find some pics on the web of the wheels you want to replicate, then use those as your painting guide.

You're better off buying pre-wrinkled slicks IMHO. Solid rubber kit-supplied slicks are too thick to be heated and deformed correctly without some sort of damage. Which kit or scale are these going to be used on?

Check out the November '96 issue of Car Modeler for Juha Airio's kitbash of a '71 Comet GT. He used AMT '72 Ford Pinto wheels to make a mold for more correct hubcaps.

I attended the Milwaukee World of Wheels show two weeks ago and was very happy to see this vintage front-engined dragster on display, with most of its vintage parts still intact.

You will probably need to custom mix the argent color, as I don't recall Testors carrying that specific color. It's been a while since I painted a set of Mopar Rallye wheels, but I think I mixed Testors Steel and Aluminum paints until it looked accurate to my eye....I might've added a touch of Jet Exhaust, too. Here are some pics I found via Google: I should clarify the argent is for the centercap, and you can use aluminum for the wheel center itself (I think I used Testors Aluminum). You'll definitely want a magnifying glass or visor for detailing these wheels, and be careful flowing a drop of black paint into each recess. Too much and it's a pain to clean it off.

I like the "blued" headers, too- nice touch. What is the kit(?) source for the wheels and tires?

Paint the center area argent, add a drop of flat black paint in each semi-cicular recess (which will reflect off the chrome trim ring and make each look like a full circle), and highlight the lugnuts with chrome silver.

To adds pics to the Gallery, click on the down arrow nest to your screen name at the top right of any page, then click "My Gallery" from the drop-down menu. Create a new gallery (call it whatever you like), then add as many pictures as you like. You can post pictures whic are hosted elsewhere using the appropriate url and provided the pics are of the correct file type (usually .jpg or .gif). Say you saw a cool pic at www.coolcarxyx.com, and the url is "www.coolcarxyz/Chevycorvette" Add and [*img*] before (eliminate the asterisks) and [*/img*] after the url, and post it in the body of a message. You can also use photobucket.com to host your pics, or any other photo hosting 'site (Fotki, for one)...or you can upload them here as attachemnts directly from your hard drive. I suggest at least 800x800 pixels for pictures, so you can see some details. The bigger the better!

Thank you, Ryan. Kudos to Round2. I really like the tin.