Shark

On that kit you would have to cut it out. I don't know how good it is, but Southern Motorsports has a racing interior tub for the early 60's Ford/Mercury kits.

Be careful with a marker such as a sharpie, they can bleed through paint. Don't ask me how I know.

Anton, interesting chassis swap, did you have to do any modifications to the chassis plate from the Monogram kit?

Love those old altered wheel base cars. Whose resin body and decals are you going to use. MCW at one time produced the AWB Nova fastback. I have one but don't have the decals. Will definitely be watching your progress.

I don't know much about what kits are available, but a lot of the top teams during that time frame used Peterbilt, Kenworth and the Petty's had a deal with International. All were conventional cabs. A few of the independents used older cab overs, but they didn't have the nice trailers the kit depicts.

Remember when MPC first issued those kits, we though they were pretty good, there wasn't anything else to compare them to. At least they did a good job on most of the bodies. By the way, whose car are you building?

I would say you are correct in stating leave the front alone and raise the back up some. On a well designed kit, I would see that the side roll bars are parallel to the window openings. In your previous build of the Hardee's car, those old Monogram kits had a great stance right out of the box.

If you want to start with the readily available 1970 Chevelle, Canuck 3D makes several conversion kits to change it to various 71 & 72 models. Also does a bench seat if you need that. As far as large scale, if you can find someone with 3D files and print it larger for you, but I imagine that would be costly.

Solvent glues work by "melting" the styrene, so they wouldn't work on the fillers. I have used super glue and reinforce where I can with 2 part epoxy for strength

Good looking build. Always enjoy seeing what you have done. I am working on one now. Although the kit is simple (what I wanted, slump buster), the molding was very clean with almost no mold seams. The only noticable ejector marks were under the hood and radiator shroud.

Thanks for the responses and options y'all gave. Like I said, I usually don't do street stock, but had to do this one. When I was about 10, my dad came home with a 340 bright green Demon with the hood scoops, rear wing and black trim. Mom blew a fuse over the color. He returned in a couple hours with a bronze one with a 318 and hubcaps.

Thanks for the lead John. I rarely build replica stock, so I am not familiar with sources for parts. I wanted to try this one box stock, but the grill leaves a lot to be desired.

Building the new release Dodge Demon kit. Easy enough assembly, but those who have built one, how did you detail the grill/headlight part. Thanks

Revell 68 and 69 Corvettes have one mirror that looks like the one on the left. Someone may be 3D printing some.

Bill suggested items from Mike's Decals. He is definitely one of the best vendors you can deal with, especially for various oval track racing items. Been buying from him for years.

There is a "Wanted" section further down in this forum, you may have better luck finding these parts there.

I have been using Testors canopy/window glue. It is a white color and dries clear. Not supposed to yellow, but I haven't been using it long enough to notice any changes.

If you want to build the Coke version, Mike's Decals has the supplement sheet.

Most everything I build is race cars, mainly Nascar. Been reading some books about some of the independent drivers like Wendell Scott, Jimmy Means and J.D. McDuffie. So I have been inspired to build some of their cars by books and googling them for reference pictures.

When I was a kid, my dad made us paint all the parts in a kit, guess so we didn't finish them too fast. Everything was brush painted with Testors or Pactra. Didn't see anyone else mention this, but we used to rub out the paint jobs with toothpaste.

Just checked, two versions, part numbers CR-1049 & CR-1050. Slixx is a great company to deal with, may even have some decals for them also.

I think Competition Resins has them. Slixx Decals carries a lot of their stuff.

Model Car World had those decals and resin body. Don't know if they still do, but at least they would know what yellow it is.

Most of the time, two coils were mounted on the backside of the firewall in the interior. They would do this to keep them away from heat. Most times I drill a hole in the firewall behind the distributor and stick the wire in there. I don't bother putting any coils in the car because they can't be seen that well. Also, back then they didn't run coil over shock assemblies.

Whatever Pierre does is what I would do. On another forum (now extinct) he had a group of brush painters that had their own pinned topic. He is the master.