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Mike Chernecki

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Everything posted by Mike Chernecki

  1. Just received my order of some 1956 Chevy colors in basecoat.... Awesome!!! Ordered mine through Elm City Hobbies.
  2. I have done enough painting in the past 30+ years to know when the issue was paint prep vs a paint problem. In each instance the hardware store thinner was common variable.
  3. Check out Jameston's site again. Yes, he does sell Acrylic Enamel, but he now has the ability to mix basecoat/clearcoat. I have ordered a few 55-57 chevy colors and some 60s muscle car colors in basecoat and they are great.
  4. Using hardware store lacquer thinner, I got fish eyes in the paint. Could there be some oil or other impurity in the thinner. Another time I was out of HOK thinner and used some Dupont Lucite thinner (not a hardware store thinner) in my HOK clear, only to have it form cracks after it dried.
  5. I am not sure how it worked with Ford in 1957, but my 1962 Nova convertible came with bumper guards as a dealer installed option.
  6. I am not sure what brand of paint they are mixing, but I have had a hard time finding something acceptable to work their paint. I have tried HOK lacquer thinner, Mr Color Leveling thinner (work on the solid but not well with the metallic paint I have), Tamiya lacquer thinner will poor results. Hardware store lacquer thinner is low quality and you never know what you are getting. Just buy some of thoer thinner, it goes a long way. Personnaly I wouldn't buy their paint again. Just order from Scale Finishes and you won't go wrong. Jameston can now mix older colors in basecoat/clearcoat which is so friendly to use.
  7. Check out this test from Zero paints, Rosso Corsa over both grey and white primer. https://m.facebook.com/zeropaints/photos/a.249770328403339.56119.195140033866369/825695624144137/?type=1&source=48
  8. I have heard the same thing. Custom painters will use a yellow base to get an eye popping red.
  9. Scale Finishes is an exact match. The other just don't look right.
  10. Maybe with everyone whining about a back bumper without bumper guards... Revell went and discontinued it. Lol
  11. I have done this many times and works great every time. I used the same template and Duplicolor white primer, 20 years later and they still look great.
  12. Thanks Art!! I can work with that. Thanks Brett! Great pictures.
  13. I have started to work on the Moebius 1955 Chrysler 300 and was looking for detail pictures of the chassis. Something to show routing of brake and fuel lines and the emergency brake setup. Does anyone have some pictures or a link to a website with pictures? Thanks..
  14. Here is a good source of information, including interior/exterior color combinations. http://www.fordification.com/tech/VIN71.htm and for 1969 http://www.fordification.com/tech/VIN71.htm
  15. Check out Scale Production, I think you will find both the wheels and tires you need. http://scaleproduction.de/
  16. You are correct, trim code shown in one of the pictures M2 is Prairie Yellow and Wimbledon White.
  17. Give Harold of HRM a call at 301-604-8591. You can order direct and Harold can answer any questions you may have. Very nice guy to deal with.
  18. If you need any of the Truck only colors from Scale Finishes, just email Jameston and he can mix the colors you need. Don't assume that the colors listed on his site are the only colors he can mix.
  19. Here are the scoops I bought from AFXnResin a few years ago. I have seen these on eBay within the last year. The scoops are the right shape, but they are a bit big, maybe they are copied from a 1/24th diecast (Danbury or Franklin Mint)
  20. Yes. I bought a set a few years ago on eBay. Can't remember who it was, may have been AFXnResin (no longer in business). Seems TM Resin is selling the same parts on eBay. There may have been someone else selling these, I thought I saw them recently but can't find them now.
  21. Thanks for the ideas. I have some experimenting to do.
  22. I have not been happy with the various shades of aluminum and silver I have tried painting aluminum engine blocks. What do you use? What is the most realistic? Thanks
  23. I own a few Novas, 1962, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1972 (x2). Differences between '68, '69 and '70-'72 Interior '68 is totally different, dash, steering wheel, steering column (ignition is on dash for '68 not on steering column), seats (no headrests), door panels (actually the doors are different, door lock pull is are the far rear of door panel while the others are 3/4 ways back. '69-'72 interiors are practically identical, slight difference in pattern and door panel insert Body & Trim '68-'69 have short marker lights front/rear, taillights and rear panel, front bumper has small turn signals '70-'72 are the same, '72 has a slightly different taillight lense '68 SS trim is different from the other years '69-'72 has same body trim, rocker molding, side trim etc '68 headlight bezels are all chrome with no holes for headlight adjusting screws, '68-'72 are the same '68 has different hood emblem, "Chevy II", '69-'72 are the same '68 has Nova emblem on rear quarter and not on front fender '68 trunk emblem says "Chevy II", not Nova '68 was last year to use name "Chevy II" '68-'69 had real radio antenna, the others had it embedded in the windshield Mechanical Parts '68 has some different brakes, brackets, some odds and ends on suspension. Hope that helps
  24. Trumpeter '63 Nova kits had a straight 6.
  25. Do you use BareMetal foil or something else?
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