DJMar

Spot on!

Late April 2024.

The cycle fenders for the front are off the hook! Very nicely done.

Neat and clean build! B3 doesn't get nearly enough love, and it looks great on this body style. Good call on the steelies with caps, too. I dig it.

@JollySipper If you're looking for that wing, I believe it's only in the '89 and '91 versions of the convertible. When Monogram did the refresh for the '92 reissue, they eliminated that part and replaced it with a multi-piece, trunk mounted luggage rack. I'm pretty sure the earlier '87 "New Monkees" version (with the marbelized plastic) didn't have the wing either, but it's been a hot minute since I built one of those. The wing might take a little fiddling to fit the '90 LX kit, since the size difference between the 1:24 and 1:25 bodies is noticeable.

The holes circled in red are for locating the kit axle via the molded in airbags. You can use them as a general reference to center your new rear axle, assuming you're going to use the stock body in the stock position. I've channeled a few of these '32 kits, and depending on the depth of the channel and what wheels and tires you're using, the rear axle location might need a bit of tweaking. The black arrows point to holes used to locate the exhaust. I usually fill these when I'm not using the stock pipes.

I like, and still use, Tamiya lacquers. I just don't mask over them, so I only use those paints for one-color jobs on bodies, or on small parts like engine accessories, interior bits, etc..

Also this. I believe that's an '81 LS (with the factory wheels).

A blurb from the Goodguys RCA, with a few more details: https://goodguys.mydigitalpublication.com/articles/legends-of-hot-rodding?article_id=4443042&i=775531

Lots of nice iron there. That '70 R/T is awesome, as is the lineup of Fargos. Not going to lie, though, I would drive the wheels off that Omni GLHS in the background.

She's a beauty! The color combo really pops. Excellent build.

Well, they say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. This whole project has motivated me to grab my "junker" AMT '40 Sedan kit out of the stash. I found it at an estate sale decades ago and it's been sitting on the shelf since (along with a half dozen AMT coupe kits of various vintages). The kit tires are missing and the body had the rain gutters removed on one side, but otherwise it's complete. I'm not sure I'll actually build it as a drag car, but I'll be definitely stealing some of the details from this project.

For some reason the color looks a lot lighter on this one, to me the EVO 4 looks darker. It's probably the lighting. Still, any metallic blue looks good to me.

I'm digging the blue!

I never thought I'd say "I like the '69 Camaro as a lowrider", but I like the '69 Camaro as a lowrider!

Not enough o's in smooth to describe that paint.

You forgot about the acid test!

About a year ago, I got one of those clamp on, adjustable, lighted, 12x magnifiers for the bench. I'm surprised at how much I use it.

Oh I'm digging this! Great color combo for this car. Super clean, and really good looking build.

I'm always, always down for a Z car. I have been debating whether or not to get this particular kit. I don't really build large scale stuff, but it looks tempting.

The ghosting issue that I've had in the past with Tamiya lacquers has happened with 3 different brands of tape (Tamiya's own, 3M High Performance Green, and Scotch Blue). All of the lacquer was flashed off in the dehydrator for 2-3 hours, and cured for at least a week (some longer) BEFORE masking. All the paint had those weird marks on it after removing the tape, no matter which of the 3 brands I used. I usually remove masking tape as soon as it is safe to do so without disturbing the paint underneath, so it's not an issue of the tape sitting on the paint for too long. I thought perhaps it was the solvent in the paint causing a reaction with the tape adhesive, but you would think the same thing would happen when spraying other lacquer paints, too. The fact that it happened on 3 different types of tape was also frustrating. I haven't had this problem with cured enamels or any other automotive lacquer I've used. To be honest, I never tried polishing out the marks. IME, clear coating them doesn't make them disappear, just makes them a little less visible.

Unfortunately, I've had the same thing happen with different types of masking tape and Tamiya lacquers. It doesn't seem to matter how long the paint has had to cure, some tapes leave ghosting in the paint. Not really sure what causes it other than a reaction with the adhesive. I've tried FrogTape Delicate Surface tape with better results, but basically I stay away from Tamiya paints if I'm masking a two tone.

That blue is mighty tasty!

Really nice, and I'm digging the purple. What flavor is it?

Exactly this, you can see it clearly in the posted pics. If you look at the instructions, you can see the correct position of the fender unit on the frame.