DJMar

I've got the original Monogram issue of this kit on my bench at the moment. I think it sits a wee bit to high in the front for a stock Mustang, and certainly too high for a proper street machine. The rear seems fine to me for stock, or if you want a bit of forward rake or to fit a taller tire in the back. As Mark said, the front is easily lowered by moving the wheel mounting tab up. Simply cut and glue. With a little extra styrene, you can get almost 4mm of drop this way without touching anything else on the front suspension. It's a pretty big change, so test this first with the wheels/tires you're planning to use to be sure everything clears. The back end is a little more complicated, because of the one piece molded leaf springs and rear axle. There's really not much material to take off the spring shackles. You can try flattening the leafs a little, but you've got very little wiggle room, unless you want the rear mounts to hang off the frame. Maybe you can get a millimeter or two this way, and that might be all you need. Personally, I would remove the rear end from the leafs and drop it by shimming accordingly. The one challenge to this method is keeping everything square, but if you drill some locating holes first and use the chassis as a jig, you can get everything glued back up without too much trouble.

I remember R&R Vacuum Craft having a panel truck (or sedan delivery?) body for the '32 Chevy, and I think Fred's Resin Workshop also did a 5 window coupe. That was 15-20 years ago, give or take a few. I've seen a handful of R&R bodies pop up on eBay now and then, so that's a place to start. I don't know of anyone in recent memory doing bodies for this kit, since the last time AMT reissued the '32 Cabriolet was in the mid-1980s.

I've never built the Racer's Wedge kit, but didn't they just repop it a few years ago, along with the Coca-Cola Fleetside kit? Also, I don't need the Beretta, but I want the Beretta, undersized wheels or not.

I was poking around with my own Mongram '32 Roadster kit when I remembered that @Dennis Lacy did a WIP on this a while back. You can check it out for ideas and stuff.

Don't forget to scribe in some door panel lines, too. It's a bit of a pain with the molded in seat in the way, but the interior looks better with just that simple detail added.

I was in college in the mid 80s. I don't remember exactly what kit prices were, but i do remember buying two kits and two Testors spraybombs, and walking out of the LHS with change from my $10 bill. My part time job paid $4/hr, which was above minimum at that time, so I was living large.

I think those who use the tired argument that websites are expensive, too much work, etc., are just parroting something they heard years ago, and are ignorant of the current state of website creation, hosting and eCommerce, especially when it comes to user-friendly, free and low-cost options. If anyone with a business actually thinks websites are so "last decade" and that Facebook is still relevant as a "free" sales tool, then they are completely out of touch with online retailing reality. Also, I'm really curious to know about these "many cottage industry manufacturers" who only use FB.

I love the look of the '66-'67 Fairlanes. This one is a beauty, really clean build & great concept. Nice work on the roof, that's one of the big bugaboos of the AMT kit. It really makes a difference.

Just for reference, my '68 Barracuda had light/medium grey primer along the pan, with the aforementioned body color overspray on the sides. There was black undercoating in the front & rear wheel wells, which isn't surprising given the car was ordered in the PNW. There was also undercoating on the underside of the transmission hump/driveshaft tunnel (4 speed car), which stopped roughly even with the torsion bar mounts. As for paint overspray, this and the above pic are pretty indicative of the general pattern found on the chassis.

I think this is a important point. The market has changed drastically over the last decade. If you've got a handful of products, are advertising on the free side of Facebook, and don't have any web presence, then someone with a decent 3D printer, some free time and an Etsy or eBay store is probably going to eat your lunch. I have a number of Drag City hoods and tops, but I purchased them all through a vendor (mainly as add ons). Sending a PM through Facebook is not the way to do business these days.

I'll second that suggestion, as it might help stop some of the wicking you can get with this method.

Primer. It allows you to check for surface flaws (mold lines, dips, sanding scratches, etc.) before color, and allows for better adhesion of topcoats. Under yellows, oranges and reds I tend to use a white primer, while under darker colors I use a gray primer. Not a hard and fast rule but a general guideline.

Great color combo! That's a nice, simple build and looks killer. It's crazy to me that this kit first saw light of day 45 years ago.

Wow, love that color! Really pops in the sun. She's a looker.

I'm loving the red. What paint did you use? Also, let me check my decals spares box when I get back home. If I have an extra set from the AMT 454 SS, I'm PM you.

Super cool! What a neat project, and they look great together.

Wow, that's slick! Very nicely done, and the tail treatment with the bar light and exhaust tips is super cool.

Incredible build, she's an absolute beauty! Even moreso, given the base kit is very simplified. So much good stuff here, I don't know where to begin drooling.

The old school trick was to paint the interior in flat paint, then rub the seats, door panels, dash tops, etc. with your fingers. The oil in your skin would give the parts a subtle, shiny look, much like leather or vinyl. Semi-gloss lacquer, sprayed in light, mist coats directly on bare styrene, can also replicate that pebbly grain vinyl/leather surface. I've used this trick for vinyl tops, too. There are also many clear topcoats, ranging from dead flat to semi to gloss, that you can use over color to vary the sheen of the finished surface. My personal favorite is to use semi-gloss clear over a matte paint, and the result looks very similar to vinyl, imho.

I'm hoping that this reaches the right ears. A full detail kit of the 2024+ GT would be welcome on my bench. Also, awesome Elco. The induction from the '67 Impala Street Machine kit is a natural.

She's a beauty! You nailed the look of the 1:1 bike right on the head.

Beautiful GTO, that pearl really pops in the sun! Sweet job.

Nice work, I'm really digging the color. Blue on blue is never a bad way to go. You might be thinking of the AMT '66 Chevelle, which is the old Lindberg kit. Their '67 was a new tool, from late 1989 or early 1990 IIRC. The Revell '67 Chevelle was around at the same time, too!

Blu-Tack and the like can be found at Office Depot or Staples, or in the office supply sections of pretty much any big box store (Target, Walmart, etc.). The last time I bought a package of The Museum Putty was on Amazon, but Home Depot and Loew's also sell it. That's what I'm currently using. You will also see this type of putty referred to as "Quake Hold".

Very nice! Lots of BMF work on this one. Also, the whitewalls and 5 spokes are killer.