sak

Looks badass

What the symbology of the buick elephant?

Tremendous dash. Very badass !!!

Looks badass !!!! But if you buy it MWguy, I hope you have a spare smallblock. This is what is supposed to be an intake/heads. The firewall also has what looks like a glob of melted plastic that landed on it by accident. But it actually a molded in master cylinder.. Everything else about this kit looks decent.

Very badass !!!!

Whats with the holes in the dash? Are the gauges a seperate piece?

Whatever you are using for that molding. Only use straight pieces and only put bends in it where it needs to be bent. Find some kind of tubing the same size as that curve and bend it around that. Glue that first and then work your way to the front of that car glueing a bit at a time. But would strip it right down to plastic and do that first because the glue won't stick to paint as well as plastic. And use liquid plastic cement. The glue you used looks a little gooey.

A bit more progress. I work slow.

can't wait !!!!

I don't get it myself. Between automated assembly lines and production being done in Asia and elsewhere you would think prices would only go down. But think of it this way. Some things go up but other do go down. You can get a 40 plus inch high def tv for not much more than 500 dollars. Five years ago, it might have been 1200 there abouts..

I am beginning to work on that tail light panel. I thought I would try to make pictures as I go in case somebody would like to do this also. I carved out the part of the body around the brake lights and glued a piece of evergreen behind the panel. I will build it up with pieces of flat or round plastic to get it to look right. These are what I was using for a reference. Not sure what one is correct but I am going with the silver one.

Very badass. Do any of the new camaro kits come with the rally wheels? Call me crazy but I love the steel wheel look better than the alloy wheels.

Thank you Craig Irwin. Yeah now that you explained it, I can't understand how I could have been so stupid. The top of the spring would need something solid, otherwise it would not compress. And also thank you exnyman as well. I did not even notice that until you pointed that out. I suppose I will need to add a photoetched malibu ss badge if I decide to carry on with my plans. Bah its too bad model car garage does not sell individual badges instead of an entire kit.

This will be my next project I think. Chevrolet chevelle. It is a big block model but I want it to be just a regular chevelle SS. So I removed the 396 badge on the back. The whole tail light panel seems to be different so I will have to try to build a new one. But a question for chevelle experts... these round circles under the frame. Are these supposed to be hollow, and the springs and shocks go through the holes? If so...it seems that one of the pivots for the upper control arms sits right on top of these holes. And the spring would be half on the control arm and half just resting on nothing. Cannot seem to find any pictures of a bare chevelle frame. And one more thing...It will be a 283 or 327 when I am done. I have a small block motor but don't have an intake. If anybody has an intake from the amt nova. I think that one will work the best. It has a extra extension on the front for the black tube thing. Not sure what it is really called.

So badass !!!!

Looking good. Never thought about using a eraser to remove the paint. In the future I would use two later to bare metal foil. Doesnt take much to burn thru it.

badass

Using an airbrush is no garantee that the finish will turn out. Wet coats are what gives you that smooth final coat no? Using an airbrush to do a wetcoat is doing pretty much doing the same thing the can is doing. And I cannot speak for everyone else but I have never painted anything airbrush or can without something landing in the paint or getting some kind of slight orange peel. I have made many mistakes and one I have learned from is making sure each coat of paint is smooth. Meaning make sure the primer is smooth, and then the color layers. I bring mine outside and sit on a chair and wetsand it, drying it off and holding it up to the sun until those little high spots are gone. .

Very badass

Thank you for the kind words. I chose my angles to hide the mistakes and the color is ford phoenician yellow. By testors.

I would love it they made a detailed 1967 camaro. I think that is my favorite year. Yours looks badass !!!

It is finished for now. I had a glue catastrophe and spilled superglue on the roof, front windshield and rocker panel and the front bumper. I usually wrap the body in saran wrap when I am glueing something but was in a hurry and somehow got a small drop of glue on my finger and it went everywhere. Managed to wetsand and polish most of it out. Then the rear windshield broke loose at the top edge. And I scratched up the inside bad tryin to pry up on it until the glue dried. I am searching flea markets for another and when I do I will build another body and transfer this chassis to that one. Until then I do not want to even look at this one again and only want to focus on learning from my mistake and get into the next one.

If I may. Is it not conceivable that even though a model kit is not 100 percent accurate to the actual car, that it might even look better? Perhaps not in this case..but the shape looks pretty badass to my eyes accurate or not. Ask yourself..if somebody got some oddball mis-shaped coronet from the factory, and this coronet did not look like every other coronet but still pretty cool. And this person offered it to you cheap or even free, would you accept it, or continue driving your honda civic or whatever you drive? If I build a model and the designers added something that looks rediculous or just doesn't look right, I remove it. Just because a car came from the factory a certain way does not mean that it cannot be made better. I can think of alot of things to make a gremlin better looking.

The problem is I squeeze the syringe and sometimes one side is clogged and the other isn't . And a huge blob squirts out on one side and nothing on the other. So I keep squeezing until the other side opens and now I have a huge blob of one and a small blob of the other. I found that I have to pull back on the syringe when I have what I need , otherwise it will keep squirting out. One side might suck in more air than the other making it worse. More wastefull perhaps is the right word.

Need to know if anybody could recommend a good two part epoxy. One that comes with seperate tubes. I have a hard time getting equal amounts from the syringe type. Jeff