sidcharles

i certainly cannot disagree with that.

how 'bout bobs?

you want me to use big letters, huh? i don't like 'em all that much. usually when someone starts a thread, that person would be the audience. methinks you've gotten a pebble in your sandal, and believe i'm the one who snuck it there. it was most likely there long before i came down the 'pike. #2. that's not bad all things considered.

i heartily agree. but writing & speaking should be directed to the audience for which it is meant. following & reading the OP's posts implied there were some challenges which are becoming noticeable and might require some compensation. i vehemently support individual innovation, and decision, in all facets of life.

the consideration to ponder: it's convenient to have 360 degree access to your figure = yes. but with this type of holder, how do you set it down? [ok; drill a hole in the bench. got it.] and then there's the whole breathing thing. any type of intense "in the zone" detail work requires us to control our breathing AND usually brace our working hand with the other. or fingers/ fingers. if you are tied up with a hand held vise, it lends to the complexity of task. i have one of the vises you showed, but have it sans handle mounted on a 4" square of plywood and use it as a passive work holder. on the other hand (! ! ! ) it may work perfectly for some straight from the box.

just shows, Everyone likes their geegaws . . .

Q: what scale is this? thanks, sid

thank you. i can completely understand putting aside a project for any number of reasons.

i am not sure if he was the originator, but for years the industry standard of Nut/ Bolt & Nut, Bolt, Washer styrene castings was Cliff Grandt, d.b.a Grandt Line Products. finest HO scale window castings & architectural details, too. he passed away and subsequently the line was purchased by Tichy, now Tichy Train Group. they may have scooped up a couple of other manufacturers on the wane. the castings, available in a plethora of sizes & styles, just need a steady hand & hole to plug in to. a dab of adhesive (depending on what's being detailed but always styrene compatible) and on to the next one. expect some loss to the dreaded carpet monster, but that's half the fun. other companies make them. i believe RMCM has some, and oodles of military model manufactures. some are just the heads on a sheet of styrene and you slice them off with no hole needed for application. you can also make your own nuts & washers separately using Plastruct rod (hex, round, rod in graduated size) by bologna slicing and stacking, but i'm too old for such shenanigans. if you've mucho dinero, go for tiny brass. check out some videos:

he does seem to have a bit of a two-dimensional personality. Q: is the car shown in a thread somewhere? thanks s.e.

https://www.scalemates.com/kits/monogram-85-4241-39-chevy-coupe-street-rod--111923 scroll down to the green box on the left says download

if you get a blah-blah, expect a stern warning from the big fishes.

i used to keep a couple of these guys around for fits: but that was back before the first oil embargo. now i just try to eyeball a realistic space around components.

do you care if the steering wheel touches the front seat? or if the shift lever cannot be reached? i've looked at a lot of interiors, and quite a few could not even accommodate Gumby. if everything in the engine bay should be spiff, ride height just right, and steering gear have Ackermann geometry, should some consideration be given to the possibility a scale driver would have a bit of chance piloting the vehicle?

isn't selling banned on this forum? i thought that was one of the improvement suggestions being considered.

Thank You for not passing the upgrade viruses to my computer.

apply some NB castings and call it a banjo.

objective perspective, but muddled with too many disassociated thoughts. and i don't see this addressing neither the OP query, nor my (quoted) statement.

me like it. all of them actually. something i saw a few pictures up made me think of something i did. a couple of years ago i had some repairs to do on fiberglass house gutters. never did it before, but watched the guys who originally installed them so had a head start on the repairs. the gutters were fit and screwed to the house with joints from tight to 1/8" apart. then they would fill the gap with superglue, and hit it with an aerosol instant cure product. the glue seldom sagged and held tight until a fiberglass resin & cloth could be applied to the inside of the gutter over the joint.' here's what was used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006IUWCC?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3&th=1 the repairs i did were cleaned with acetone before the adhesive was applied.

i'm missing this in all photos. i thought a top loader was like the top/ left picture here. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/VPPSweb/VPPS-homepg.htm somebody set me straight; thanks.

any chance you could share the link? i'm circling the drain but only come up with singles (pull) or set of 4 w/ handle (push) thanks

i can work with that. start it (new thread) and i shall follow.

i always read the screwdriver should not be used for opening paint cans, so i used my Tam . . . oh; shoot.