sidcharles

either Bob Smith Industries ic 2000 black cyanoacrylate adhesive or Mr Surfacer (Mr Hobby) 1000 have worked for me under like conditions. IC-2000 | Rubber-toughened CA cleans up with debonder or sanding sponge CA Debonder | Un-Cure Mr. Surfacer 1000 - Mr. Hobby sanding sponge both take a bit of time to dry apply with toothpick i've had some success with both if you search through some of Night Shift videos, he uses it extensively (6) Night Shift - YouTube

thanks for the offer. i'mma gonna hold you to it. sid

this is an awful story, but what the heck, i'll share it anyway . .. . so i had this first date. now this was about 18 years ago at the height of the time in my bachelorhood which i will refer to as the "tri-state reign of terror." i'd have a meeting with a lady for coffee in the morning, another for lunch, and then if it was a good saturday, i'd have a dinner engagement with a third. so after dinner we went back to my pad. a little chit chat and then time for, well, an interlude, would be delicately put. of course being the suave and debonair man about town i fancied myself, i popped in a new cd of, yes, Lalo Schifrin themes. (regretfully i don't remember the orchestra, but it may have been various) so one thing leads to another, i'm doing what makes me, me, and then the song changes. i cannot remember the name, or at exactly what point things changed, but the next thing i know the music was blaring whatever song that the gladiators marched to when entering the colosseum. it didn't put a halt to the festivities, but i sort of broke the mood, if you catch my drift.

looks minimum 4" (1:1 = actual) diameter / maybe 5" or 6". the evergreen catalog takes a little getting used to: EVERGREEN SCALE MODELS and doesn't have everything, but between it and Plastruct, you should be able to get what you need: Catalog – Plastruct the only caution i would offer is to stay away from ABS plastic. just a personal choice; guys that use it may find it fine. don't forget the protective screen so Bear don't get burnt. this is too good not to post edit: skip the 45 degree doglegs and put some proper "flipper" tops on the pipes. nothing prettier than seeing them straight up with rolling coal in the wind.

over the tears i have seen, but never participated, in group buys. y'know when one guy only needs a couple of something but the smallest quantity is 100 or 1,000 and he cannot figure out what to do with the surplus, so he harangues the rest of the inmates to buy into the whole and then somehow, someone, manages to distribute the booty to everyone? Q: has this ever been done with 3D file & subsequently printed, parts? packaging & postage would obviously be a factor. well, the logistics in general would be a horror show, but is it a practicality? i guess it would sort of be a business at some point? and there are people who do that. nevermind . . . . . .

you just keep the links a-comin'; m'kay?

anyone use these:

unless you want to get a dedicated kit, the struggle might be a long one. a quick search showed me diecast 1:9 is about half-price of a kit. my vicarious experience has shown that guys working in a large scale like this are prone to make their own components. in all honesty, it looked like a metric tonne of work to make a mold and then rtv silicone a tire or two. maybe with all the 3d printing these kids are doing now, you could buy a file and have some whip up a tire. no; two. Sport Motorcycle Tires - Download Free 3D model by Jamie Hamel-Smith (@jamie3d) [f089def]

you just know the owner couldn't have that panel stop 3 inches shorter..

that's how they did 'em. and somewhere there's thread about not having patience to clean flash.

SGD has a pretty extensive line: Products – smallgreatdetails anyone know of a US dealer?

i believe somewhere there is a school of thought which subscribes to the practice of getting overspray body color around the perimeter for probably not the frame but the underneath of the cars' metalwork. probably translates better to late model cars rather than pre-war. this is a nice color combination and would perhaps lend itself to that belief.

i believe it's a variation on my favorite "wicker body" paint. Wicker door panel - General Discussion - Antique Automobile Club of America - Discussion Forums Crosley Garage Corgi Toys Mini Cooper De-Luxe Wicker work No. 249. Boxed Gorgeous example 1/43 | eBay you might end up using a kevlar or carbon fiber pattern decal over a painted panel (not the same color as the body) but i will be glued (!) to this thread hoping someone else has a more better idea how to duplicate. i think for scale, this might be a pass : Kevlar Weave Decal Series 1300 – Scale Motorsport

really nicely done. any chance of sharing how you did the window cranks & door handles? they actually look set away from the door card enough to get a hand in. thx

against . .. . ?

well back in the olden days, i remember buying special rustoleum thinner made with fish oil. that was their hook, it was, it was.

#1. if you are reading the funny pages in the newspaper and blink your eyes really fast, the characters seem to jump up & down. #2. most people really don't want an honest opinion, they just want you to agree with them.

that's when i have always found the digging easiest

excellent. this figure is reminiscent of a Chas Adams cartoon

along that same thought line, could a well cured clearcoat act as a barrier? ** would the immediate edge be sharp & well adhered if you cut up post-it notes to form the boundary? maybe aluminum foil the painted body. then, use the minimum surface possible to hold the notes against your paint line, and then tape the livin' bejeepers out of the remaining paper to the foil. which in theory should stay put due to its memory. ** when staining, then clearcoating, furniture, i was taught to use a layer - "spitcoat" - of a clear finish of a dissimilar base as the stain (usually clear shellac cut with alcohol 50/50). that way when the topcoat of clear was applied, it did not reactivate the vehicle in the stain and obliterate the grain pattern/ turn it to mud. i would seek out a clear coat compatible with your paint brand, but Not of the same brand. that may take some hunting since conventional wisdom suggest using finishes within a range.

i was not familiar with this steering system, so i did a search. perhaps this will help someone: Hot Rods - The End of the Schroeder Steering Box! | The H.A.M.B.

there could be some logic applied to any phase of model making. i think that discussion has been made. if it's the actual technique we're after, there's plenty of sources and philosophies to choose. i know that military modelers are intimidating, so as a gateway, we can check in with Frank:

if you cannot find something ready mixed, there are companies which will make it for you. i only use acrylics & spray bombs of non, but i think anything mixed will be enamel or lacquer. if you have the patience, you could mix your own batch from what's available. a sample of the target would be helpful for you to start. i guess this stuff is readily available, but i would join a Chevrolet Forum with the knowledge it will save you time and effort because someone has walked this path before you. might even find someone who will sell you a tiny bit of the actual thing. 1955, 1956, & 1957 Chevy Colors and Paint Codes - Solid Colors & Two-Tones if you're willing to mix your own or compromise in the name of scale sanity, any number of companies make quality paint. Tamiya - Color range Vallejo Model Color Paints for Modeling | AK Interactive it's really a great time to be in the hobby.

if you think about it, very few things are pure black (or white). save those colors for extreme accents. the level of gloss depends on the desired end result. if the goal is showroom clean, semi-gloss is good. also for a base in the event you are applying liners & weathering layers. flat will show tide-marks more readily/ full gloss won't hold the effect. hobby paints tout more finely ground pigments, and all manner of mystical additives which will enhance your scale masterpiece. for the time spent and parts invested in a model, a savings of a couple of dollars at the most visible part is hardly a value. you won't go astray using Tamiya paints. the next 10 responses will contradict everything above.

remember AMT 3 in 1 kits? there were actually almost too many parts to decide which ones to use.