sidcharles

i remember for the first Revell-Pactra Contest, the sponsors were suggesting the contestants ship their models surrounded in popcorn.* *popped, of course.

plastic tubing & brass wire which is large enough to fill the hole in the tubing.

i take it no one here has tried to buy cigarettes or baby formula in the past 20 years.

you might want to glue a strip of styrene on edges of the body & panels after getting an approximate 90 degree surface. file or sand the the shim to hood/ trunk lid thickness, and only then start scribing it to the body. do the vertical [wall thickness] work first, and then get the parts to mate correctly in the horizontal plane. if you do it bass/ ackwards, you run the risk of making the panel too short.. the operative word if "kit". by nature it will take energy and patience to make it look good. become One with the styrene.

yeah. every one doesn't need to be a gasser.

next thread: why do we have to wait in line at the post office and delicatessen department?

they don't make them no more

them seats gimme the willies, though

thieves gonna thieve no matter. i worked on a property which was undergoing major renovations to one of the buildings. the stepson of the construction company's owner would go to a store, buy stuff, and charge it to the job. in turn, since the job was "time & material," the owner would be charged accordingly. since the kid was a crook, he would return said materials and get a store credit card. then he would spend it on his own stuff. until he got caught, that is. and the missing tile from Italy was found laid in the foyer of his house.

ah, yes. the Farber Twins. i remember them well . . .

great bangers

you can shrink the straight sections & go over the junctions with another piece scribed & unheated to suit. since heat shrink will get as small as half of its size, you may need a second size to do the overlaps. whatever you choose, be aware the heat shrink will also shrink in length when heated. the overlapped piece should be adhered with a vinyl safe adhesive.

this is a wire bender: https://www.amazon.com/Singring-Manual-Desktop-Workbench-Bending/dp/B0B3GVCRP7/ref=sr_1_10?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.zO76cczo0JAN2azZv6zy8MsdtfwEbpDrwVxjPZV_z_hB9SZ7X0-7Wd8wL3mn1LK5DCuHTei0FLGUjDg1iZZ8Z14hKijYdflPHWSfpFuhzvEiM1Xgy9pQ3LE3I4-KrLcYXwiCtXDC93c6HtAEgkxAf5zV62r5vCDfSYXoQuE-qM8KeQ5uvIovFXv-LsS5tYXYV4TPfgIH4oq56GYI-gIaNKquSW_0stHI1H0vradSHW5jOgmi6tPuqvOJtmuD5KLrYiiTZ50N9aGIpfiHPtAOtE7IQ7z9t7Vj19opXf2zVGA.QQ3kZhRIhzbOSWA69-i0GYQ8FvWvK4bWCw2Qe8F69Xk&dib_tag=se&keywords=wire+bender&qid=1762621787&sr=8-10 these are tubing benders: https://www.amazon.com/Eoppen-Spring-Tubing-Benders-Aluminum/dp/B0DFY7DTQ4/ref=sr_1_11?crid=9EHELSVAZRB&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.qsNqtWfR8xg846rmXC1N1PBqXskPUuKt5bJ3IifY_--bl5URZ9KaEaRulTZ1nFP2RNs0JQ-eSCdyAIGy-KPxHy2EN8tKx7t8wrzeoyYWLI1b3wmJAnO_Yj_tPUC6AXRWj0Q_7e9fHxrqxqN61CsBukYCUS16oj0YIDLsroW4ydnNXVrV14vKZI_TpCrZpjXw1CNM7zjlDZvBNbB6ixoJc9CNBSQWUJ1ajmUl_-QEMhorwgwjAJDTp9bJAiA9qHeuy_eXZ-9YTgF1Gn05XPM9lWfl8fQV3rBswLuDj54PR20.vcjWT9FHaBo8cM6tH91lExa-hfSaoU-2nkArhnJMjW4&dib_tag=se&keywords=tubing%2Bbender&qid=1762621858&sprefix=tubing%2Bbender%2Caps%2C259&sr=8-11&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/Wostore-Handles-Aluminum-Stainless-Awesome/dp/B07LDY3V82/ref=sr_1_23?crid=9EHELSVAZRB&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.qsNqtWfR8xg846rmXC1N1PBqXskPUuKt5bJ3IifY_--bl5URZ9KaEaRulTZ1nFP2RNs0JQ-eSCdyAIGy-KPxHy2EN8tKx7t8wrzeoyYWLI1b3wmJAnO_Yj_tPUC6AXRWj0Q_7e9fHxrqxqN61CsBukYCUS16oj0YIDLsroW4ydnNXVrV14vKZI_TpCrZpjXw1CNM7zjlDZvBNbB6ixoJc9CNBSQWUJ1ajmUl_-QEMhorwgwjAJDTp9bJAiA9qHeuy_eXZ-9YTgF1Gn05XPM9lWfl8fQV3rBswLuDj54PR20.vcjWT9FHaBo8cM6tH91lExa-hfSaoU-2nkArhnJMjW4&dib_tag=se&keywords=tubing%2Bbender&qid=1762621897&sprefix=tubing%2Bbender%2Caps%2C259&sr=8-23&th=1 tube needs 360 degree support from either within or out. old model railroader trick is to pack brass tubing with sand to make gradual bends. had a 50% success rate. rod is a bit more forgiving = usually will not kink or collapse

could you share the brand? any files that shape i have found are either part of a 12 piece set for $4.99 or individuals around $66.99 each, so i'm trying to hit some middle ground here. [Grobet doesn't scare me much.] thanks, sid

nice work all 'round. Q: is that adhesive heat shrink on the pipes? Q: if so, how does it hold paint [acrylic?]? thanks

no wonder the market is dropping . . . but back to the solder trick. why would it sag? i would think the runs short enough [under 4" real?] that a slide/ loose fit piece of solid would work out fine. whaddimiss?

https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/4/6/8/1003468-24-instructions.pdf shows above + heater https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/4/3/6/268436-47-instructions.pdf ditto

maybe not for this model, but sometimes Scalemates can direct you to a builder's review or at least give you some additional information especially if you're considering an out of production (read: paying a premium) kit. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/testors-italeri-239-ferrari-348ts--1138327

darn! i hoped there would be a motorcycle build-thread. like this one:

like any kit, it's a starting point. i've built some jeeps (1:24) and a landing craft (1:35). Q: is there a particular kit or feature which is in question? remember the adage: "it's a poor workman who blames his tools." even the ages old Gunze Sangyo Volkswagen with the rubber interior parts can be made to look presentable.

which one is the bride?

prophetic. if they didn't, they shoulda.

the thicker prismacolor pencils are wax based and will even out the color distribution if gone over with a fine brush dampened with paint thinner. i use W&N Sansodor, but there' bunch of different brands including the hardware store kind. trick is to use it sparingly = not slosh it on. i do not know if the veri-thin pencil leads are of the same composition, but they are harder which may cause you to work harder to get the result needed. https://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Sansodor-Odor-Solvent/dp/B0083INYV8?th=1 another way is to mask the lines and drybrush them. or mask & use a silver sharpie pen. again, different companies make them; also in gold & brass which then can be tempered to the shade you want. https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-1829201-Metallic-Permanent-Assorted/dp/B007QNWC3M/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3PT4XE7VIZMVI&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.I5ZlQm1vWXpWhq2W8ZWU6T8i-K6UswZP8VJoaRq4GXp62ncmxujyMAZYHYFdGyaA2ywu-A2VRMlTlHbh-fHIkboL0w87fLZ1pZHLCcabQG6XGst0os8TE5INHy6jiFmDkepfO8H_oJzvTICqW65wkUdeaXYnKUDIEeNygjsyb--16GWMiVLoeugS0g65WkS8cNk3t5NVcAqgGYDgmCl52VKrprnJRhPZYxxi6rZfsGy0YHq6SCkNYkywB1cdFfhcQRk0FhCMLLHqQZJFcF1Uft2VgB1es3_1NgHL1cFoC0k.XTZ--WcNaET_sV8u0qTZ32dkeZvOZeF2IOhlveyY8hQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=sharpie%2Bmetallic%2Bmarkers%2Bbronze&qid=1761353104&sprefix=sharpie%2Bmetallic%2Bm%2Caps%2C209&sr=8-1&th=1 if you intend to add a dark wash to the chassis, it might also enhance you efforts.

there was a girl in high school that, for some inexplicable reason, always had a date on saturday night.

now i do. looks like a lot of useful things https://www.ebay.com/str/jackmodelling thanks sid