randx0

John you've done a great job on these two models , I hope you know how much you inspire people .

Very nice .

you probably do want to draw it out as much as possible . For a quick jig for the main rails you can use 2 adjustable squares just add the second adjustable part to the ruler part so you have two facing each other it should keep them straight .

You can also use plastic melted in liquid glue consistency is up to you the more plastic you add the thicker it becomes . Acrylic nail filler can also be used for a strong bond in gaps .

I use glazing putty for small imperfections ,or the old standby a tube of Garlitis .

Good thoughts and hopes .

I hope there's no cross wind.

I paid about $40 for mine but they had some issues .that is the low end for these kits. I think it's a unique kit worthy of a place in your collection and if you don't like the style you won't have a problem selling them on an auction site . But whatever you do do not try to watch the film of the same name in which the van starred. don't even watch clips you can't unsee it .

Ok you were there . I like the pics , some day I'll have to make it to that show.

Pics or it never happened .

If the brake fluid doesn't work maybe try a polishing kit but try taking the printed stripes off with 600 or 1000 grit first then the regular polishing process 1200,2400,4000,6000,8000,12000 . worth a shot .

Great news!

I couldn't view this link ^ the model but spent a long time looking at all the other kits you have in your fotki site .

I just Googled 52 Plymouths and frankly if you paint the roof throw on some whitewalls and lower it a couple inches they look pretty good. Assuming the underneath areas are rust free and it's within your means I'd go for it .Let it grow on you .

That is pretty cool, I like the concept and execution.

Is there a Toyota FJ cruiser kit in 1/24th ? I feel like Ive seen one but maybe it was a R/C car

Well he's got 100% positive so he must be doing something right . I wonder if the people buying these know what is actually possible with plastic .

An excellent adhesive for joining bodywork that is very strong is acrylic nail filler found in the fingernail polish area , it comes with a liquid and a powder you dip the brush into the liquid then into the powder then brush onto the joint . it is very strong and dries pretty fast like in five to ten minutes . I always had problems with styrene filler ,epoxies, and superglues but this stuff sticks and doesn't break . I don't remember who brought this to my attention but it was someone on this board .

I like that you always come up with something different , and it is always done well . I hope all your builds will be compiled in a book someday.

Invaluable tool, I have a stylus which is my favorite but I also have a corded one which I use with the drill press dremel makes . I also have one of the cheap cordless ones too which is adequate to start with if money is an issue . there are so many uses for it you basically just have to get one and figure out what you can use it for . I have a very thin saw blade I use for bodywork and the sanding drums are good for wheel wells .

I like it.

Welcome back , with sites like this and others you should be able to improve your skills rapidly .

I'd love to get those tires back into rotation.