Bainford

Personally, I think it’s a great idea. I’ve not dipped my toe in the 3D pond yet, but some day I think I’d like to have a go. Even if I don’t, 3D printing is an exciting development in the hobby, and moving forward, it can only grow. Such a forum section would be a significant benefit for many of us.

That is one wicked looking Opel. Well sorted mods. Very cool. I love it.

Oh yes!! I love the Lotus 43. One of the most interesting engines ever in F1, and yours is looking freaking wicked. Everything is looking fantastic. I’ll be going through all this again when I get to a better monitor. Lovely build so far. Looking forward to seeing more.

Another stellar build, Steve. Everything about it is simply excellent. Love the subtle colour choice. Glad to see this one finished. Less glad we will be seeing less of you. I always enjoyed your WIPs. Don’t be a stranger, and do be sure to show us what you’re building. Cheers.

Good looking Jag, Greg. You seldom see them in black, but I think they look great in black. I like the bonnet trim solution, and wonder if perhaps that is the preferable way to go. Nice work!

Cool project. Good looking start. I’m watching.

Nice looking piano hinge. How narrow is it? The hinges I bought were of two different types. Looking at them now, they seem quite useful, though I kind of forgot I had them. The barn door hinges, suitably modified, would be great for 20s - 40s cars, hot rods, etc. In fact, I’ve just solved my ‘48 woody door hinge problem. The barn door style were the ones billed as worlds smallest hinges, probably available through doll house sources. Opened up they measure .560” long and more importantly about .150” wide, the pivot bit .042” thick. I’m surprised at how many I still have, some showing sign of having been used, and later salvaged.

Hypo tube comes in an almost unlimited graduation of sizes. The tube you have would fit well in a tube of about .029-.030” ID / .036-.037” OD. But that seems a bit large for an antenna. You would be better off looking for tube about .020” OD, to fit inside the tube you have, but that’s still a bit large. I use SS hypo tube .016” OD / .010” ID for the larger section of the antenna and .009” steel guitar string for the thin bit.

The ‘56 is looking good in black. Very nice. I like it.

It turned out great. A lovely replica. The bumper guards and flag decal are a nice touch. I’m a big fan of the Pinto, and yours is cool. Well done!

Nice work. Good looking mods.

You’re not alone. I saw this at the hobby shop this afternoon.

Great looking engine. I know you have a remit to build OOB, but the temptation to hit it with some wash and weathering must be almost irresistible.

This build keeps getting better and better. The lighting is looking good, and the foiling compliments that gorgeous paint nicely. So cool.

This is good news, thanks for posting. Hopefully it’s the old BMF we know and love. Fingers crossed.

Looking great, Jim. Very creative stuff, here, and I love what you are doing with 3D printing. Your results are very impressive.

Stellar!! Very impressive to see this coming together. And as you say, I bet it really pops when viewed in person.

Nice work, Dale. Good job masking those stripes. Sharp Mustang.

I use Tamiya Panel Accent quite a bit. I, too, didn't realise it was enamel when I bought it. I have had this stuff effect Testors and Model Master enamels, the paint being melted and removed from edges/bolt heads when black washing engines, chassis parts, etc. As Greg mentioned above, bleed much of the wash from the brush with a rag before attempting to apply. Err on the side of caution, to avoid a big sploosh of wash draining off the brush and onto the model. When black washing enamel paint, I mix a wash of very thin black acrylic. However, for panel lines on most models, I deepen and define them, then I apply the Tamiya wash to the primered body, before I apply the paint.

I use the aid of a little liquid mask. There are different ways to approach this, but most often I will apply the tape as shown in your photo, then use an exacto blade to slice the tape at the panel line to about 1/8" - 1/4" in from the paint edge. Burnish the tape well into the panel line using the thinned edge of a toothpick, or similar. Then carefully apply a drop of liquid mask to burnished cut-line.

Excellent model building! A stunning model, well detailed and so clean. I am very impressed.

Nice work on one of NASCAR's great icons. You captured the look very well. Cool build.

It sort of sounds as though there has been a reaction between the marker ink and the paint over which it is applied. One recommendation I would make is to use a brand other than Sharpie. The Sharpie ink has a distinct purple sheen to it, and it can retain a certain tackiness. Experiment with other brands for a better appearance. I prefer markers by Bic and DeSerres, which have a blacker ink, and seem to dry better, too.

Beautiful dragster. Nice work here, and I am super impressed with the decal work. Very well done.

The difference between 1/22.5 and 1/25 is 10%.