Bainford

A lovely model, David. Very nice work on this wonderful classic.

Man, that brings back memories. When I was in my teens a spare tire was my only air supply. I mainly used the 15" spare from Dad's Dodge pickup. Using a bicycle pump I could manage to get 52 psi into that tire (I was a scrawny 130 lb teen, and that was all my weight suspended on the pump handle). One tire had enough air to get the body mostly painted. Starting at 52 psi, I had to secure the body really well to the top of a spray can so I wouldn't blow it right off (I did lose a couple onto the garage floor), then continually adjust the airbrush paint-flow as the pressure depleted to the point the airbrush wouldn't pull paint (Badger 200, siphon feed). Then I would allow the paint to set-up while I jammed another 50 psi into the tire. That allowed me enough air to put on the 'wet coat', and to clean the airbrush. Many of my paint jobs at that time were dry and streaky from too high pressure. Doing most of my building during the winter in an unheated garage, it didn't help that I frequently did this at temperatures below freezing. Ah, the good ole days. Dedicated to the hobby.

Welcome to the forum, Tony. Some top notch finishes you have posted there. Looking forward to seeing these on the forum. Cheers.

Welcome to the forum, Glen. Nice builds. I dig the weathering.

100 ml is the capacity of a standard Tamiya spray paint can. One can is more than enough to paint a 1/25 scale car body. It does make me wonder how much of that 100 ml is actually paint. Presumably that is the capacity of the whole can, including propellant. The Tamiya LP lacquer paint bottles are supposed to be 10 ml of paint, though there is a lot of air-space in those bottles so I measured the contents of two bottles and found them to actually have 8 ml of paint in them. Assuming a 50/50 thinning ratio, that equals 16 ml of (airbrush) sprayable paint in one bottle, and that is enough paint to cover a typical 1/24 scale car body. Assuming the Tamiya spray can is at least half full of paint, that is 50 ml of sprayable paint. Spray cans are, of course, much less efficient in paint consumption, but 50 ml is still a lot of paint. I have only sprayed a model a couple of times with a Tamiya can, but there was plenty of paint and then some.

Some people have suggested using a surface sealer such as BIN or similar, though I don't know how effective these are. The one solution that has been known to work over the long run is covering the interface between the tire and wheel with BMF. It can provide an effective barrier to prevent the chemical reaction from taking place between the two parts. However, if the tires themselves are on a path to self destruction, it won't help that.

The best colour for any project is subjective. It's worth having a look at Michaels or other well-stocked craft store and checking out the craft paints. Many variations in colour, and cheap, too. Craft paints also often have a surface texture that works well for many interiors.

Wow, that's clean! What a great looking model. Lovely paint and detailing. A fantastic build.

A stunning funny, Bill. One of my faves from that era. You really nailed this one. Nice paint and detailing. Beautiful work.

Great old stocker. Very nice work on this one. The Wood Bros livery looks great in any era. You have captured that old school vibe very well.

Stunning build. You nailed the look. Everything just looks 'right'. Those outdoor pics really show this lovely build properly. Very nice work.

I was also thinking of Campagnolos from a Miura.

Agreed! You are not missing anything. I have an account, but haven't really used it since 2013. Aside from all the noise and garbage that makes up 95% of fakebook content, I was dismayed at all of the stupid and asinine comments and re-posts made by friends and other people I looked up to. I started to think everyone I knew was a bloody idiot, and figured I was better off just not knowing this dreck. And I was right. I used to look for old kits for sale on kijiji, but the model offerings there have been drying up over the last while, so in the last year I have tentatively ventured onto fakebook market place a couple times to see if there are kits there for sale, and there are, though haven't bought from there yet. Maybe I'll visit there every few months for that purpose, but that's it. Even then, I feel as though I have to wash the taste out of my mouth whenever I visit.

My accomplishment this weekend; pulling in a First In Class and a Best In Show for my latest build at our local model contest. It was the first return of the show after covid, and the tables were absolutely stuffed with the best work everyone had done in the last five years, making the win all the more meaningful. I will post the build in Under Glass as soon as I get around to taking some decent photos.

Welcome to the forum, Gary. That's one cool '32.

A beautiful classic. Interesting kit. Incredible molded detail. It's coming along nicely. I have the JoHan Mercedes in the later white boxing, and can attest to it being plagued with flash, and it too is brittle plastic.

Very interesting. I have not seen that car, or any Honda S600 in this area.

I suppose it depends on the type of plastic, and the material make-up of the particular tires in question. With the right combination of elements, it is certainly possible. The phenomenon is known as 'tire burn'. There is an almost unending variety of recipes that make up the various rubbery/plasticky tires in kits over the years. Some of them, with the added ingredient of time, can have devastating effect on the kit parts they may be in contact with. The plasticisers used make the tires flexible is the suspected culprit. This is a real problem with vintage kits stored for decades, especially on clear parts. This may have a lot to do with the fact that old kits did not bag tires or glass separately, both lying together in the bottom of the box. Some claim that kits stored in hot environments (attics, unventilated garages, etc) are more susceptible to this, though I don't know the degree to which this is true. Heat often increases chemical reactions, so it sounds reasonable. There are a few kits out there of which the tires are known to eat the wheels on which they are mounted (the Revell Jaguar XK-SS being one).

Very cool! I don't wish to be too forward here, but I have long been searching for a full bottle or two of Testors dark green #1123 for the restoration of an old build. This colour hasn't been produced in over 20 years. I'd gladly trade a kit for some of this paint. If you think you can help, send me a PM and we'll work something out.

Thanks for the review. I have been curious about this stuff.

There are a number of transparent glues suitable for windshield installation. I usually use Testors Clear Parts Cement. Some use watch crystal cement or canopy cement such as GS Cement. Epoxy glues are also a good choice. It is also helpful to fit the windshield in place and secure with tape, etc, and then apply the glue to the edges. As for repair, I assume you have already tried to scrape it off. Not likely to work, but worth a try. Aside from that, sand the windshield surface until the damage is erased, then polish it back to clear with Micromesh pads and Tamiya polishes, or similar.

I would also consider shaving off the lower door hinge to make the body work easier, and add it again after the repair.

This is looking cool. The Stude makes for a surprisingly good looking gasser.

Very cool. Nice replica.

Welcome to the forum, Daniel.