Ben

Yep! I realized this as I was floating back down to earth!!!!

Cool! Looks like he's off to a great start!

Hey Dave, before you send it back, can we please get a picture of the suspension? It's hard to see it in the pics already shown. Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Whoops, in my state of stupor, I think I misread the post thinking the sides and top would be molded as a "shell" so to speak. That's just fine, I'll just buy more glue!

SOLD!!!!!!!!!! I'll take two cases please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I like the idea of the sides and roof being one piece! Your glue would be dry before you reached the other end of the panel if you had to glue them together! LOL Where did Dave post this answer Charles? I went back through the post but don't see it???

Something else to be very thankful for!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank you Moebius for listening to us modelers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ohhhhhhhhhhh this is looking GOOOOOD!!!!!!!!!!!!! Dave, please, can you tell me, will the sides and top each be one long piece with no hard to fill seams cutting right across the raised side detail?

Hey Charles, here's a place that sells all kinds of tiny hinges. http://www.dollhousecollectibles.com/search.php?search=hinges&image.x=11&image.y=11

As an update to this, I filed a complaint with Paypal explaining that I had sent several emails in several different ways with no response. He replied (as I expected) with "I didn't get any of your emails, you kit will be going out in a few days". He has till December 2nd for it to be in my hands. If not, i'm going to escalate it to a claim to get a refund.

Uh oh, here comes another masterpiece!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Great to see you on here Tom! Have you tried the Archer Transfers 3D rivet decals yet? MUCH easier than placing them one by one! I recently mastered a 110" Peterbilt cab and added the rivet detail that was lost doing body work as well as correcting the rivet patterns. You can see how they look here http://www.public.fotki.com/lotso/ Look in the album titled "Some Cab Masters". Micromark recently started offering these 3D rivet decals as well and you get more per sheet than the Archer Transfers but Micromark only offers two sizes from what I've seen. Can't wait to see more progress on this truck!!!!! I was thinking of ordering that resin F700 when I saw it on Ebay. Now, knowing that you mastered it, I'll be getting one for sure!!!!!!!!!

That would be a good thing for someone to cast! I remember searching high and low for that one I have. Had to give in and buy that whole Beanik Bandit kit just to rob the suspension from.

I robbed this one from the Revell Beatnik Bandit II kit.

You can use a orange or red Sharpie marker as well.

Hey Gordon, not at this time. That Cat came with the truck when I bought it.

I'm pretty sure, from what I read, the their fee would be higher for a higher starting bid.

You can find my items here http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200678081000&ssPageName=ADME:L:LCA:US:1123

Really nice paint work!!!!!!!!! Very sharp, clean edges on your stripes. Did you use decals for the pinstripes or is that paint as well?

Whew, I thought it was going to be stuck together with boogers or something! LOL

This is probably a "too late" type of thing but, if I'm going to glue a body permanently to the chassis and the contact points are not very accessible, I add my own body mounts (before painting) in an area to where they contact the chassis in an "easy to get too" location. This way, I can carefully place the body onto the chassis and then carefully pull the body up just enough to put some glue on the body mounts. Position the body back in place and let the glue dry. You can use Plastruct "L" channel cut into small pieces or strip stock, whatever works best. This can also help in situations where the body doesn't sit right on the chassis, straight out of the box.

When I was mixing up tiny batches for small parts, I would buy the cheap little measuring cups for taking medicine. They are only about an inch tall, clear and have measurements molded on the side. Makes it really easy to see how much you have in each cup. After you use them, you can just throw them away.

Actually, that would make things ten times worse! Putting resin under vacuum will pull so much air out of the resin that it will actually foam up. You have to put resin under pressure to properly remove air. The silicone mold material should be the only thing that is placed under vacuum.

Beautiful paint work!!!!!!

Very, very cool!!!!!!!!! I really want to get one of those Welly Tahoe's! It looks like it's pretty accurate.

Sprinkle some baby powder on your mold halves and then pat them against your hand so that the baby powder gets into all the crevices. Then place your mold halves together. Pour your resin in and "flick" the sides of the mold. This will jar the air bubbles loose and cause them to float to the surface. The baby powder causes capillary action and will help to "pull" the resin down into the small voids. Hope this helps.

I have been a resin caster since 1993 and I know exactly what is involved. My issue is that all my emails made before payment was sent were answered quickly. Every single email, sent as replies or straight to his email after payment have gone unanswered.